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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok so for the past few weeks iv been noticing a clanging noise coming form my front end of my truck. before it only happened every now and then when i gave it a lot of gas on a bumpy road but now it started doing it even louder and more often when i make right hand turns...... i think its something in the front right axle if any one has had the same problem please any info you can will help
 

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608 Posts
Ball joints, hub bearings or tie rods
 

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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
ball joints look ok, have not tried the hun bearings, i know a tie rod would not make that sound. have not checked u joints but im leaning to that myself. i have had a day from hell and im tired of chasing this problem so i dropped it off at a buddy's shop. id still like to get more info if someone would like to teach me some stuff as to how those components would fail like that.
 

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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
and before some smart ass wants to chew me out im a mechanic in the army but we dont deal with to much diagnoses. im trying to learn that as i go. i know my way around parts and such due to the wonderful leaders over seas running hmv's over loaded by 2,000 pounds some times more. so i know a thing or to but im still a young buck who is wanting to learn all i can
 

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410 Posts
does it make a hollow clunking noise, or a rattle, or? Without knowing more, Id say sway bar end links (if you jerk the wheel side to side does it clunk-while moving I mean). Very easy to change, very cheap.
 

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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No I found the problem I put a 4 inch mbrp exhaust in and I guess the way I put it in it was hitting the heat shield when it vibrated alot. So I adjusted it some and it has not done it again but I have not had the time to really test it out so when I drive home tomorrow im going to dog the #### out of it and see if it happens again.
 

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Busted Nuckles
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115 Posts
I had the same problem with mine. I had my MBRP 4" exhaust installed at a muffler shop and it hit the fire-wall (heat shield) where the upper and lower sections are spot welded together. The top and bottom sections of the fire-wall have a 90 degree crease which is where they are welded together. This crease folds out into the engine compartment. My down-pipe would hit this. I spent about 10 hours under my truck grinding about a 1/2 inch off this crease. I created a semi-circle that spanned about 3 1/2 inches of the crease. This provided enough room for the down-pipe to clear. It now has at least 1/8 inch of clearance from the fire-wall. It's now so quiet, it sounds almost stock, with the exception of when I romp on it. The truck also runs so smooth now. I love it....oh, and my mileage went from 15.5 to over 18.
 

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Busted Nuckles
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115 Posts
Nobody said it had to be ground?
I just said that's the solution I came up with.
After you pay someone to install it, take it back for 2 exhaust leaks and 3 points where it's hitting the frame or firewall, you want it done with. It's not easy to find someone that's willing to spend the time to do it right.
 

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Busted Nuckles
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115 Posts
But I agree with you about having to go to these lengths to install it. I think MBRP could have done a little more work with their bends to make sure it clears easier. For the money you pay, it should fit better.
 

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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
ya im calling them next week after the holiday to see if i can get a new down pipe...... i have yet to find a way to solve the problem other then custom fabrication.... if it comes down to that then ill ship the damn thing back to mbrp used and dirty and demand my refund hahaha
 

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Busted Nuckles
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115 Posts
I know exactly how you feel. If I thought I could get better from another manufacturer, I would ship mine back too. I have heard this is common. Some guy on one of the forums said he put a 2x4 in between the firewall and the down pipe while he was installing it. He then removed the 2x4. This resolved the problem, so he said.
I wasn't willing to have my downpipe loaded up with torque this way. I wanted it to fit cleanly, while it sealed up completely to the back of my turbo. It fits really well now that I shaved off a little bit of the firewall. It took about 10 hours of sitting under the truck with a grinder.
I certainly don't blame someone for not wanting to do this. As I said in an earlier post...the pipes should be bent to fit better. It just shows a lack of commitment to quality. There's no reason why MBRP could not have put a couple small bends in to get rid of this issue. All they would have needed was 2 bends of about 5 degrees each.
 

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TampaRedNeck
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
not even that if they would have shortin the length from where it goes into the turbo to the first 90 degree bend then it would solve the whole problem.
 

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752 Posts
anyone had this trouble with a mbrp 3-1/2 downpipe? i can seem to keep mine from rattling. i thought it was hitting the trans dipstick tube.
 
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