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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all I've had a squeal under the good for awhile and it's gotten worse I put a new belt on last year and it went away. Now last couple months it's back and I've just been using soap and it worked like a charm but now it doesn't. It squeals at idle and worse in gear and louder the faster I go. I'm pretty sure it's more of a chirp I'm not sure though. But for awhile I've noticed coolant around the seal on my water pump. And I'm fixing to order me a new one. But there's two types for my vin # first pic is of lower hose setup.
 

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i got mine at orielys for 160 just have to reuse your tube off the old one and goes right in. If memory serves me right the one you posted is it but always match it up before going through the hassle nt that bad of a job did mine in 1 1/2 by byself and taking breaks to warm up plus i got a new tensioner pulley which i had to modify it was a little too deep so just ground it down. no problems with a sqeek or squel since.
I wasnt having a collant issue at all before hand just found out after looking around my pulleys that my bearings where fixing to go out so i replaced the pump the pulley and the belt
 

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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hour and a half by yourself to do the water pump? I've haven't done one yet except on my dads Chevy with electric fans and when you have no fan clutch it's easy. But I hear I'd was a real bugger with the stick fan and clutch.
 

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well my family owned a mechanic shop for 25 yrs. So i have done this alot. Just drained my coolant, pulled the raditator fan and then the water pump. the hardest part is the fan. Just clamp the pulley with vise grips and knock the bolt loose or if you have the wrench even better. Just keep the 2 or 3 longer bolts in the right place and make sure to use some silcone to hold the gasket in place and to seal it better.

The hardest part was the trans lines and such going back on remember the spot and routing. Put them back on before sitting the Radaitor all the way back in.
 

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i have always for more room so i can get in there and make sure my water pump seals good. Also to check my radiator fo leaks too
 

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Make sure it seals good? It has an oring type gasket. There's nothing you can do to "make sure it seals good" with the radiator out that you can't do with it in.

If the bolt holes are lined up, torqued to spec, and the sealing surfaces are clean it's going to seal just fine. You're wasting time and effort pulling the radiator.
 

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okay listen to one up man #### can happen doing any kind of mechanic work but he knows all. guess i never worked and grew up doing this all my life. He knows all so direct all qustions to CSP. Im just being helpful seeing most of these trucks are in the 200k plus mark wouldnt hurt to check a little while in there and taking care of your motor.

Sorry for any info for extra work to save your motor OriginalRedneck just trying to help out. So let smartass give the info now.
 

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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks strokerguy86 for all the tips/advice. Hopefully it goes smoothly my water pump should be here tomorrow.
 

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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just replaced it today afterwork. Got off a two. And I figured I had all the tools I needed. Well my wrenches were just a hair bit too big I'm talking like 3/16 to an 1/8. So I took apart everything I could while my dad ran to autozone and rented a wrench set for $60. I took all the bolts off and the shroud and by then he was back. We put two bolts back in it and put the wrenches on her. It moved a little but it felt froze up. So we pulled the ac clutch and took out the water pump still attached to fan clutch. Got it out on the table and put the wrenches on it again. And before we torqued on it I spun it by hand and it came apart.

That was good. Putting the new one in went smoothly got everything put back in and started we up and it was leaking from the top of the pump where it contacts the block near the upper inlet. So we tighten one of the bolts up and it still leaked. Drove her home and nothing. Since then drove bout thirty miles and she's bone dry.

I'm sure the o ring type seal just needed to heat up and expand a little. But heres the pump I chose it was $103 something with shipping from auto parts warehouse. It was really nice good parts. And it was brand new. brand was Gmb my dad nor me have never hear of this brand name. Auto parts warehouse is pretty much our preference for vehicle parts good price good quality.
 

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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And something is still sqeaking I really hoped I could kill two birds with one stone guess not.
 

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check that tenioner pulley or the way i check some times if i cant find it quickly. I take the belt off and move each pulley trying to elimnate what i can. Does it squeek on just idle or throughout hitting the gas or when turning. Hopefully this will help ya.
 

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Yee yee
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When idling it's not too bad. But when I'm driving it's gets way louder an it's starting to make me mad lol some times it'll do it for a week and then for a couple days nothing.
 

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mech 1
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could be the tensoner spring getting a little week but spin the pullys if you feel the slightest bearing vibration change that pully if it make noise just spining without a load it will make more with it but if it is squealing its more than likely the tensoner
 

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Time to check the bearings in the pulleys and the tensioner. You may have a pulley about to remove itself from the front of the engine.

I've had to replace the bearing in one of my idlers twice in the 200k that are on it.
 

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also how old is your belt could be stretched just enough to allow this sqeek. i bought a new one but put my old in my trucks tool box for a back up never know
 

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These serpentine belts don't really stretch. They just dry out and crack and/or wear out.

The new ones don't even crack so you have to measure the depth of the ribs to determine when one needs to be replaced.
 
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