Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
New to the forums.

I had a problem with my fan not coming on which resulted the engine temp going sky high. I put on a new fan clutch, but at the same time I thought it would be a good idea to replace the water pump as well. I'm glad I did, as the picture shows what my old pump looked like.

Question - what would cause this type of damage to the pump. This may be the original pump to the engine, which has over 7,000 hours on it. I have a coolant filtration system on the engine so hopefully this will help catch any particles left in the system.
 

Attachments

·
PSN Newb - Lurker
Joined
·
9 Posts
So obviously a coolant flush would be a benefit, especially if you have a bypass filter. Those missing plastic bits are probably lodged somewhere in the radiator.

The main reason for the pump coming apart like that would be heat cycles and maybe vibration. Those plastic impeller blades are a known failure point in the cooling system.
BPD, BD and other companies sell a pump with metal impeller blades - that’s what I would buy instead of a factory replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would have liked to install an aluminum billet water pump from Bullet Proof Diesel, but I didn't have a choice unfortunately.

When I changed the pump, most of the coolant came out of the system, but I imagine that there are particulates left in the radiator as well as the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
If you haven't done it yet, it might be a good idea to check the ECT EOT delta, besides the radiator the oil cooler has very narrow passages. I think my WP may have just started leaking a bit, you pic makes me think metal impeller. I suppose you could have your radiator back flushed it they still do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Fortunately the delta has been 7 degrees, unless I'm towing a heavy (10,000 lb) load then it goes up to about 9. With the new water pump I'm hoping that it will keep the delta around the 7 degree mark all the time. I must have been loosing about half the volume of the pump with the veins that damaged. With a large Mishimoto radiator installed, I think that has helped with the reduction in flow throughout the system. Towing a heavy load today so we'll see how well the new parts work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,419 Posts
Cavitation is also a possible cause for the damage. Cavitation can't really be avoided, so we either replace the inferior pumps on a regular basis or we upgrade the material. The good news is you caught it, so just remember that interval and plan to replace this one a bit before that. Also, not sure what coolant you use, but supposedly the extended life (EC-1) coolants help reduce water pump cavitation. Not sure how much that would affect our little motors, but I'm sure every bit helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Good point. As I remember working with large irrigation pumps, we would periodically rebuild the impellers due to the pitting caused by the cavitation. I can see now that with the "plastic" becoming brittle due to heat and fatigue, a bit of cavitation could start to eat away at the ends of the impeller splines.

I can't be certain, but I think that this is the original pump. When the engine was rebuilt, I did not notice a charge for a new water pump. I will probably change to a all metal pump in the near future. Changing the pump is not that hard.

With the new pump installed, the engine is running cooler and the delta between EOT and ECT are usually within 5 to 7, but pulling up a hill with a head wind and 10,000 behind me, the difference goes up to about 10, but then comes down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Sorry for tagging along but I was wondering if there's any additive you can use to break down any scale before a system flush (drain and refill) that won't cause more issues?
 

·
don't play well w others
Joined
·
3,997 Posts
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top