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Discussion Starter #1
I have at least a couple rotors that are warped. They all have plenty of life left in them. question is, are they worth turning or is it cheaper to just replace them? If I replace them, are there any particular brands that are better than others?
thanks
 

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Diesel Sled Head
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1,101 Posts
Usually you are better off replacing them. When you machine them there is less material and they can tend to warp easier. I was impressed with the rotorpros pads and rotors.
 

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<----Nice headlights!!!
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Yes...differential cooling is what warps them in the first place. Usually anyway. Machining them usually exacerbates this problem.

Id love a baer upgrade kit for these. I always pitch them cuz I consider them unserviceable.
 

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Caption This
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Rotors don't warp. The pedal pulsation you feel is caused by a difference in rotor thickness. The difference in rotor thickness is caused by runout(wobble).

When the hub/rotor assembly has runout the rotor bumps the pad as it turns. Where it bumps the pad it will make thin spot. If you want to fix your brakes you will need to fix the runout.
 

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Hood Rich
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So when one is riding the brakes, say a woman... than this woman hits a puddle of water... then all of a sudden she has wobbly feeling everytime she brakes.... now she has different thickness's in her rotor surfaces???
 

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Go Away I'm Baitin
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Rotors don't warp. The pedal pulsation you feel is caused by a difference in rotor thickness. The difference in rotor thickness is caused by runout(wobble). :blah:


When the hub/rotor assembly has runout the rotor bumps the pad as it turns. Where it bumps the pad it will make thin spot. If you want to fix your brakes you will need to fix the runout.
:blah:

Not true in all instances, on a single piston caliper this is not as prevalent as on dual piston calipers
Ok do me a favor and find a set of rotors that have been on a SUPERDUTY
and you think have runout!! and measure them with a set of calibrated calipers! Hmm! you might just realize that they acually can warp:doh::pointlaugh:
 

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Hood Rich
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I'd love to see how he explains himself out of this #### storm
 

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Caption This
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:blah:Not true in all instances, on a single piston caliper this is not as prevalent as on dual piston calipers
It is always true, the number of caliper pistons doesn't have anything to do with it.
Ok do me a favor and find a set of rotors that have been on a SUPERDUTY
and you think have runout!!
That's easy, any of them that you are calling warped will have runout.
and measure them with a set of calibrated calipers! Hmm! you might just realize that they acually can warp:doh::pointlaugh:
Where do I get a set of them calibrated calipers and how do I measure warp?

You're in over your head too.
 

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Go Away I'm Baitin
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1,142 Posts
measure them all the way around and see where you see a diffrence the high spots are going to be shorter by just a little but if you put them on a brake lathe ( its a machine that you can use to fix rotors with) you can tell they are warped


And where you can get a set of calibrated calipers If you call your nearest snap-on, mac, or matco driver he can sell you a set
they come in diffrent shapes and sizes
 

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Registered
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Classic...bears don't Sh!t in the woods either right....:poke:
 

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So anybody recommend a Brand name for rotors?
 

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Sofa King Cool
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2,827 Posts
Powerslot rotors
 

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Attention Whore
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CHP slotted rotors from Diesel Innovations on mine for about 5 years now....still good as new.
 

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PSN Mega Miler
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Heres the article covering rotors dont warp :
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

Do I agree with it? Not really.

Ive seen warped rotors before. I dont mean it vibrates or needs a caliper to measure it, I mean WARPED. Like a piece of tin thats been mangled. But Ive only seen it about 3 times in my life and it was hot brakes run thru standing water.

My excursion has a bad brake pedal pulse right now at low speeds when stopping. Im not talking a shudder but a good 1 inch travel or more pulse. So when I replace the rotor to fix this problem I will try to take pics or measurements or whatever.

I still like just calling a none round/flat rotor warped though even if they are not technically scientifically warped each time. Makes life so much simpler and gets the job done diagnosing the problem too.
 

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Towing Doubles with the X
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233 Posts
R1 Concepts out of La Habra, Ca. they also are on Ebay, but you can get the ebay price by calling them, I picked mine up from there store when I was in SoCal. I got there drilled and slotted rotors, along with their recommended pads, and I LOVE my brakes.
I pull a 44' enclosed gooseneck race car trailer and when my factory rotors of 140K miles went metal to metal, I opted for a major overhaul, new calipers front and rear due to the rubber dust boots on the pistons were non-exsistant due to the extreme heat the brakes produced while coming down the mtns out of dever heading to Utah or the 17 frwy from Flagstaff to Phoenix, I run these roads monthly and heavy..
When I replaced the origanal pads and rotors with the R1 Concepts, I also replaced the calipers on all four wheels and upgraded to braided stainless steel brake lines and flushed entire brake system out with new fluid. and I now have the best brakes I have ever had.. Stiff pedal, quick stopping power...Call thee guys, their great guys and parts were instock..
 

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Village Idiot
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8,209 Posts
My rotors were warped or zoo I thought , I replaced them with powerslots and the shaking went away....well mostly.

I did e hawk pads at the same time, and all was good for a couple of years.
I did find out that me rear pads wore faster then any other vehicle i have had.

Kinda chewed the slots off one side of one of the rears....strange as it doesn't pull, chirp squeal etc .. Money situation said let it ride.
Since it still stops well has plenty of thickness etc.
 

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<----Nice headlights!!!
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In my opinion, if a rotor is out of spec in terms of runout then it is warped. Does it mean the metal was bent or pulled due to heat or physical force? Kinda. Its warped then.

If you get a sports car that is fast and heavy at the same time. Like an awd turbo charged car with four wheel discs. Take it out and run it hard from stop to 100 then stop it with the brakes. Repeat that two or three times and then just stop after the last cycle. Those rotors WILL warp unless they are ceramic, kevlar, or carbon fiber. Some cd/slt rotors made of aluminum might survive this test but not likely.

W/o getting into peoples use of words and whats in the parlance of our generations vocabulary rotors do warp. Metal doesnt like doesnt like to stay organized on a molecular level after an intense heat cycle followed by cooling. This if often called differential cooling. Rotors do NOT like this.

End of story.

Fwiw, most replacement SD rotors are sh!t and you'll be lucky if they last a year. They need bigger brakes, imo.
 
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