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Grumpy Old Bitter Bastard
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So is Victoria Secret involved with one of these girdle designs? Has anyone seen the WOP and WOE girdles side by side? What do you actually get for the extra $1600?

WOP Girdle and Main Stud Kit will give the bottom end of your PSD the strength it needs to handle big HP. - $1089

Wipe Out - Girdle:
Our girdles are designed to tie the main caps into the pan rails to achieve optimum strength. We use 7075 aircraft aluminum and studs using H-11 steel. Includes: studs, bolts, and remote mount oil filter. - $2700
 

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Doesn't Black Widow have one that ties the mains to the pan rails?
 

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Savings?? what?
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Good timing of the thread. I need to climb out from under my rock a bit more. I was only aware of the WOP girdle. I was wondering if anyone had a girdle that tied to the pan rails. Now decisions decisions. Better girdle and OEM forged rods, or cheaper girdle and better rods.......
 

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Savings?? what?
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Who is WOE? Can't seem to find them
 

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Fordnut WOE is Wipe Out Enterprises. They have some one of a kind cool stuff but are spendy. I'm saving for a girdle and rods also.
 

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HRT Performance
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I have seen both the WOP and WOE girdles side by side. I am running the WOP girdle in my truck, but WOE is very near me and I am running some of Dave's stuff. The WOE girdle is of the same construction that they use on the big cube pulling tractor motors. It ties the mains to the pan rail and requires a custom oil pan and pickup. The WOE is definately a nice but spendy peice. I'll look in the morning I think I have some close up shots of the WOE peice.

Jason
 

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Do you smell something?
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Both do the same thing.....

The goal is to prevent main cap walk, and both do that very well.....

Neither will "add" strength to the bottom end.
 

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Doesn't Black Widow have one that ties the mains to the pan rails?
BWD's does not tie into the pan rails. it does utilize all four studs on each main cap though, whereas the WOP girdle only uses two of the studs. not sure if that matters or not, but fwiw. the WOP girdle really seems to be getting it done on many trucks. the wipe out girdle is serious!
 

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A halo plate using the two center studs is more than enough to keep the caps from walking, which is really the only issue the 7.3 has. The WOE is a nice piece, but I don't think with anything less than 1000-1200 HP you'd see ANY improvement over a halo plate.

One idea I've been rolling around is boring the bolt holes in the caps. The holes are quite large and tapered slightly in the main caps. I think the halo plate, or even WOE's full girdle, would be more effective if the main cap holes were bored and sleeved so that the studs fit snugly. Since the halo plate indexes on the studs this would eliminate pretty much any change of the caps moving if the block and studs are in one piece.
 

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Plays with Motors
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You don't want to force the studs to follow a pre-determined line as that can cause them to fail if there is any side load put on them. Either way that's not going to add strength, the studs are there to apply clamp load only, the cap register in the block does the rest of the work.

There are multiple ways to strengthen up the bottom end, such as doweled caps, billet caps, etc - but you will run into two problems being the weak factory main webbings in the block, and the gear mesh timing setup which will not allow line-boring of the block and hence billet replacement caps.
 

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Savings?? what?
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Thanks for the links. Just checked out Wipeout and I know why they are called Wipeout. I could flat WIPEOUT my Retirement account in less time than Snow White can run the 1/4. Besides the Girdle, what really caught my attention were the ported heads for a 54% increase in air flow. :eek:. That's incredible. I think I might just stick with a deburred block and the "CHEAP" WOP girdle. Relatively speaking of course.
 

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I realize that you don't want to side load the studs, however if you keep the caps from walking there wouldn't be much of a side load. Once you put a girdle on the studs are then placed under a side load anyway as the bolt hole bores are very tight in the girdle. How much of a load this places on the studs in a 7.3 I have no idea, but some no doubt. You could dowel the girdle to the caps and the caps to the block which would take all lateral load off the studs at that point I think.

The biggest problem with the maincaps is the registers in the block don't adequately hold the caps in place which results in the need for a girdle of some type whether it be the common halo plate or the bed-plate style.

Yes, the block does have some weak spots in it, but with a proper engine build with good parts they do not present as much of an issue as it's commonly thought of.

I also don't know why everyone makes such a big deal out of the gear train on the PSD. It's a VERY simple gear train and the mainline can be bored and honed just like it can be on a BC, Series 60, ISX, or just about every other big-bore diesel engine.

Billet caps would be nice and would probably make doweling the caps easier.
 

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Plays with Motors
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I also don't know why everyone makes such a big deal out of the gear train on the PSD. It's a VERY simple gear train and the mainline can be bored and honed just like it can be on a BC, Series 60, ISX, or just about every other big-bore diesel engine.

Billet caps would be nice and would probably make doweling the caps easier.
I'm all ears then, as I would love to make some billet caps for these motors, how can you avoid the problem of loosing gear lash when the centerlines are moved closer together? I don't know of a -.005" crank gear being available?
 

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HRT Performance
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I'm all ears then, as I would love to make some billet caps for these motors, how can you avoid the problem of loosing gear lash when the centerlines are moved closer together? I don't know of a -.005" crank gear being available?
I know of a Dmax that was line bored recently and ran into this exact issue. We got a little creative with an electrolisis tank...... but this is truck is also far from a street truck.

Jason
 
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