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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting a reman 7.3 from Tidewater Machine. Rocky (BigBully) in Ft. Lupton, CO suggested to me that I consider getting stiffer valve springs installed. Can someone educate me on this?
  • What are my choices (like comp 910, etc.)?
  • How should I pick one?
  • Is there a downside to stiffer springs? For example, do they lead to bent rods and broken rockers?
I plan to build my engine for ~350 hp eventually.

Thanks!
 

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Pulling sled for hire
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Build your engine for 350 hp? Get some good custom programming and you'll be pretty close to that already. Most will tell you bigger valve springs aren't necessary at that hp level.
 

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I think you will be wanting more power once you get started. Most all do LOL

forged rods not PMRs correct?

comp cams 910's with shims ( give Swamps a call)

There is no downside to these heavier springs. The higher lb is a good thing to prevent floating a valve from higher: boost, back pressure, rpms.



Personally I would also add in:

H-11 or ARP head studs
Push rods

The cost in time and labor will be far greater to do these things after the fact.

Its always better IMO to get it done from the get go IF you can at all swing it money wise.

Better to over build a bit than later decide you want more, which generally happens, and now have the extra cost.

I am sure others with far greater experince will chime in and I defer to their recommendation.
 

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He spun a bearing from another thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
Perfect. Thanks Tom!

Is the motor you are getting a less expensive route then having your redone?
The motor I'm planning to get is $3100 base, then $500 for studs (not sure which ones) and also some extra for springs (still need to find out how much). I'd like to get studs and springs, but I really doubt that I'll ever need studs, and I'll be cleaning out my savings even without them. I'm also planning to get an Adrenaline HPOP.

Here's a link to the eBay ad:
96-03 FORD 7.3 POWERSTROKE REMAN DIESEL ENGINE
There is a PSN thread HERE that discusses them, and they sound pretty good. I talked with them and most of their business is with UPS and the US military. However, with the economy in the tank, UPS is giving them less, and so they placed the eBay ad to fill in the gap.

That said, I'm very open to considering a local rebuilder who can match the quality and come close to the price. Do you have a favorite? I'm in no particular hurry to get it back, as it's not my daily driver anymore. (I now work in Aurora with a 132 mi daily commute, so my daily driver is a '98 Jetta TDI.)
 

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GAM in Greeley is the only place I know of with some powerstroke building experience here local. Haulinponies on the Colo site has done business with them so you could check with him. That Ebay add actually sounds pretty good. If you go that route please provide us with a full report.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
GAM in Greeley is the only place I know of with some powerstroke building experience here local. Haulinponies on the Colo site has done business with them so you could check with him. That Ebay add actually sounds pretty good. If you go that route please provide us with a full report.
Yes, Rocky uses GAM also, but they cost significantly more (don't remember exactly how much, though). I'll give a full report either way. :) BTW, I'm using a new tech who seems really good and charges a very reasonable rate. I'll be sure to tell everyone if he works out as well as I think he will.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Based on the info in the threads above and other sources, I'm going to have the valve springs upgraded to CompCam 910-16's. This is a relatively mild upgrade, and it will only add $100 to the cost from Tidewater.

The main reason to upgrade springs is to prevent valve float, where the rods lose contact with the cam. When the rod then "crashes" back onto the cam, it puts extreme stress on the rods and rocker arms, leading to failure. Float is primarily caused either by excessive engine RPM or excessive boost.

The only downsides to stiffer springs are slightly more drag on the engine and slightly more stress on the valve train components. However, the extra stress doesn't cause any problems and is far less than the stress of valve float.

Thanks everyone, and especially Tom!
 

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Goodluck with the project dan I hope it works out well for you. There are some sharp engine guys on this forum if you run into questions.
 

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<<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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I talked to tidewater a few months ago, he has no issues with installing the springs for you... I was at $5500 for my long block with a ton of crap done...
 

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So would having a long block built by Tidewater be just as good or close to as good as say having one built by one of the shops that sponsor the forum? aka WOP, Beans, DI, etc.
 

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So would having a long block built by Tidewater be just as good or close to as good as say having one built by one of the shops that sponsor the forum? aka WOP, Beans, DI, etc.

I don't know... But I spent about 45 minutes on the phone with him one day, and another 30 another...

He has a well equipped shop and tons of knowledge.
 

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I think that they have a fair size shop that can turn out some engines. Therefore making his costs lower to prepare one! Just a guess though from reading around some of the posts about them!
 

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No, for the work I was getting done he was in the ball park of everyone else... Cut and coated pistons, Forged rods, .020 over, pushrods, valve springs, studs, some light head work...

Cant find the e-mailed quote... Think I posted it here on the other tidewater thread...
 

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Dan the other thoughts that occured to me on this are what head gaskets are they using and perhaps consider taking the sharp edge off the piston bowls.
 
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