Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking into doing valve springs and pushrods. know about what the springs will do for me but what are the pushrods going to do for me? And how much is this going to cost me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
but what is the difference? are the pushrods capable of holding more power? and what kind of difference am i going to see on a 227k mi motor when i change the valve springs? and i dont want the same as stock as i will have larger inj and turbo.
 

·
<---F350 DRIFTER
Joined
·
516 Posts
You won't have any difference you can feel but you will be able to turn 5k rpm and not smack a piston or put a new window in your block.
What size sticks are you thinking? I wouldn't worry about it unless you are going past stage 3's. If you are still thinking stg.2's like in your sig you don't need them....even at 220k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok thank you for the info, i guess ill wait for that for a whie...mabye once i hit 500k mi :fordoval:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
775 Posts
what about if i have a swamps gen3 hpop, swamps 250cc hybrids, ts 6 pos, full aeromotive fuel system, gt38r and full built trans.. are the springs and push rods needed? also.. how hard is it to install them? what all does it take?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
all you have to do is pull the heads and the rods will be able to be pulled right out and dropped back in. the springs need a spring compressor wrench so you can get them off the valves. actually really easy.
 

·
Busy Busy
Joined
·
9,004 Posts
Do them at the same time. Pull the valve cover.

Just keep the piston at TDC when doing the valve springs to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder.
 

·
Demon Dually
Joined
·
5,140 Posts
I am thinking the post was misread in that it was thought they said connecting rods when push rods is what was stated which does not require removing the heads. Valve springs would be difficult to do without removing the heads unless you have access to a bleed down tool to put an air charge to the cylinder which may or may not hold depending on the condition of the valves and seats.
 

·
Hater Club
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
You won't have any difference you can feel but you will be able to turn 5k rpm and not smack a piston or put a new window in your block.
What size sticks are you thinking? I wouldn't worry about it unless you are going past stage 3's. If you are still thinking stg.2's like in your sig you don't need them....even at 220k.
Huh? Turn 5K?

Regardless of how large the injector is, if the springs are weak and back pressure is too high, it is possible to have the piston smack the valve. Been there. Done that.

what about if i have a swamps gen3 hpop, swamps 250cc hybrids, ts 6 pos, full aeromotive fuel system, gt38r and full built trans.. are the springs and push rods needed? also.. how hard is it to install them? what all does it take?
Springs are needed. Seriously.

I think valve cover is what was meant.
Agreed. Springs\push rods are simple to install.
 

·
Hater Club
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
I am thinking the post was misread in that it was thought they said connecting rods when push rods is what was stated which does not require removing the heads. Valve springs would be difficult to do without removing the heads unless you have access to a bleed down tool to put an air charge to the cylinder which may or may not hold depending on the condition of the valves and seats.

Simple install.

Remove valve covers.
Remove all glow plugs.
Remove intake and exhaust rocker from a cylinder.
Insert a straw or straight piece of wire into the cylinder in the glow plug hole.
Turn engine over by hand until the piston is at TDC.
Using a screw style valve spring compressor, compress one of the springs.
Gentle tap the top of the compressor to release tension on the retainers.
Use a magnet and grab the retainers.
Remove spring from valve.
Remove crappy stock spring from compressor tool and compress a new, upgraded spring.

Reverse instructions. Install new push rods while you are there.

I believe that the rocker bolts are rated for 120in lbs torque. You may want to look that up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,690 Posts
Dirk would you suggest shimming these springs I was going to give David a call and ask him tom. as that is where I got mine but if you could answer without bothering him that would be great. Thanks
 

·
Hater Club
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
Dirk would you suggest shimming these springs I was going to give David a call and ask him tom. as that is where I got mine but if you could answer without bothering him that would be great. Thanks
Which springs? I didn't catch that part.
 

·
Hater Club
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
Actually, it doesn't matter. Comp, crower, whoever... I wouldn't shim the springs. The seat pressure is good and there is no reason 90% of you would need to shim the springs to gain any open pressure.

I've had a few conversations with a pole smoker on this forum about cyro'd springs. But I haven't seen them in person.

What I have seen in person:

comp 910's vs. stock on a bench test: the 910's were all within 3-5% of each other. New stock replacements were within 10% of each other. That was a bit concerning.

comp beehive style vs 910's: The 910's were heavier. Big deal. Not worth the extra cost for the beehives for most of everyone on here.

And then there were these of the left... They are for my heads I'm building. They require machining.

 

·
What else?
Joined
·
4,156 Posts
There is alot of misinformation in this thread, I think Dirk cleared it up fairly well.

First of all, if you put in springs, you need to install pushrods. Otherwise, you will eventually bend a pushrod because of the higher pressure required to overcome the spring's force, or from running higher rpm's.

Now you do not need to pull the heads to install valvesprings, or pressurize the cylinder for that matter. All you have to do is put the piston on that cylinder at TDC.

And as far as when you need springs and studs, IMO, you need them whenever you're running anything over the stock turbo. It's not the size of the injectors that floats a valve, it's the increased boost pressure and volume of air that you're putting in with a larger turbo and/or injectors.

As for shimming 910's, well, mine are, to ensure they will be ok to run the boost pressures and rpm I will be seeing.

Dave
 

·
Demon Dually
Joined
·
5,140 Posts
So your saying that the piston comes up far enough to hold the valve high enough to change the valve springs without the valve slipping down too far to get the retainers and locks on? Good info if that is the case. I was unaware that that was a posibility. How are you verifying tdc per cylinder when you are doing this? Not arguing, just looking for elaboration on the process.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,690 Posts
Dirk they are the 910s so is there a boost or hp # they would need shims??
 

·
Busy Busy
Joined
·
9,004 Posts
I have 910's, and they are not shimmed.

Guess that's all I really need to say. ;)
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top