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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I am new to the group and seeking some guidance and intuition on finding the right fit in aftermarket injectors. While I am probably asking a fairly common question I'd like to get some input from the experienced. Anyways, I have a 96 f350 7.3 4x4 A/T which I received from a family member. It needs injectors and is a bone stock grandpa rig. First things I am going to do is open up the exhaust with a downpipe and straight pipe, open the intake and sooner or later go through the up pipes. Since I need injectors I've been doing a little research and am hovering around 160/80s with a good tune since I've heard a ton of positive feedback but at the same time I'd like to eventually perform other upgrades as well (fuel, hpop, intercooler, turbo...) I have found some folks mention 238s tuned down until the other mods are completed. It's primarily to be used as a DD and some towing not much in excess of 10k loads. Any input and knowledge is appreciated!
 

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Welcome to PSN! Those 160/80s likely won't tune well. It really all comes down to what you what to do with the truck. 1023 Diesel is also a good resource for general setup help - he has a "Plan your build" feature on his site. Setup a time and he will call to discuss what you want and give you recommendations.

CJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I spoke with Jim at Rosewood who got back to me swiftly and he filled me in with some good information and mentioned he has a 96' and what he's done to it. Seems to be a great guy and even cooler he focuses on 7.3's specifically. As for tuning he "highly recommends" jelibuilt. What do ya'll recommend from your personal experiences? I can't wait to have the truck back on the road with some improvements.
 

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Brian at Jelibuilt is awesome to deal with, been running his files on my Tan ‘97 with FFD 205/30s for some time now. Linear peddle feel, great idle and zippy when you hit the go peddle. In respect to injectors I’d consider a number of things. Where you live, elevation above sea level, geography where you drive, I.e., hills, versus mountainous terrain, divided freeways or twisty mountain roads. Tire size and differential gearing. It’s not just injectors but an entire “system” and changing just injectors can impact drivability (negativity), e.g, hot smokey, poor power low in RPM (off idle to 2000 rpm), always under turbo efficiency. Once in turbo efficiency you’re exceeding the speed limit.
Set money aside for your auto tranny, install a larger cooler and lines for sure. You will need gauges, EGT, Boost and Tranny temp. I’d recommend install gauges, larger cooler and lines for tranny, down pipe and intake (do not use a K&N), then electric fuel, then Hydra chip with Brian’s files. Drive it for a bit, safe dough for tranny upgrades…. Read read and research here on injectors, HPOP, intercoolers and turbo upgrades. In this way you’ll have the basic safe guards covered with a great base to add ponies.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Brian at Jelibuilt is awesome to deal with, been running his files on my Tan ‘97 with FFD 205/30s for some time now. Linear peddle feel, great idle and zippy when you hit the go peddle. In respect to injectors I’d consider a number of things. Where you live, elevation above sea level, geography where you drive, I.e., hills, versus mountainous terrain, divided freeways or twisty mountain roads. Tire size and differential gearing. It’s not just injectors but an entire “system” and changing just injectors can impact drivability (negativity), e.g, hot smokey, poor power low in RPM (off idle to 2000 rpm), always under turbo efficiency. Once in turbo efficiency you’re exceeding the speed limit.
Set money aside for your auto tranny, install a larger cooler and lines for sure. You will need gauges, EGT, Boost and Tranny temp. I’d recommend install gauges, larger cooler and lines for tranny, down pipe and intake (do not use a K&N), then electric fuel, then Hydra chip with Brian’s files. Drive it for a bit, safe dough for tranny upgrades…. Read read and research here on injectors, HPOP, intercoolers and turbo upgrades. In this way you’ll have the basic safe guards covered with a great base to add ponies.
Cheers
Thanks, appreciate it. I have a plan, nothing too crazy off the bat. Open it up, guages, trans stuff then go from there.
 

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Thanks, appreciate it. I have a plan, nothing too crazy off the bat. Open it up, guages, trans stuff then go from there.
Excellent rationale. With some reading a strategic plan, you can save yourself significantly grief, disappointment and dough. KC turbos has interesting reading and testing of their gear. If you stay stock turbo (with new internals), pending diff gearing and tire size, (plus other info mentioned above such as geography, ASL elevation etc) be wise to check on A/R size on exhaust side. My Tan sig truck currently has 1.0 A/R exhaust side wheel, (stock is 1.15 A/R) wished I’d have gone with .91 A/R, for increased low RPM performance. With mine as it has 4:10 gears and 37” tires and where I live road alignment sux with few passing lanes and significant elevation changes. So for what I do I want off idle power and turbo efficiency to 2,500 RPM. Above to redline doesn’t help me due to highway speed limit, poor road alignment… typically only see above 25-3000 rpm if towing heavy and need the air cycled through to keep the EGT’s in check on long hills. Just more insight to illustrate it’s important to consider the W5 of what you hope to achieve with your rig.
Cheers
 
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