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1st murdered 2011 psd
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1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anybody know where the main harness plugs in at? Mine didn't come with them and hooking up now just don't know where pigtail is on truck to plug into...
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ya thats the same insturctions that came with the kit.... cant that that stupid connector to plug into though..
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
That 2nd one helps but still can't find the dang plug... Thought I did up behind te headlight switch but the plug was already connected to some sort of reply and it wasn't quite big enough to into....

Thanks for your searching!! Hopefully I'll figure it out soon
 

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Lol I hope so. I used all my resources up. Good luck man.
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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Discussion Starter #9
FINALLY friggin found it... It was to the right of the steering wheel all the way up kinda above the brake pedal... Was a pita to plug I too! Thanks for all the help man! Took like 5-6 hours to wire up the off road lights, get aux hooked up, air bags mounted after havingto modify some brackets and such... Gonna try to get ip early and finish wiring for the compressor and do the high idle some time... Lol
 

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Makes me want to add them.....NOT! Lol. Glad you got it worked out.
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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Discussion Starter #11
Well I think if I had to do the upfitter install again now knowing where the plug is.... It would prolly take 30 min or so start to finish... I bet 1.5-2 hours was trying to find that stupid plug!
 

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Lol, glad you have it figured out. Maybe some nice pics of the locations to help a brother out?
 

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I have seen them on the bay for high 120's low 130's.
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
paid 141 shipped off ebay from a ford dealership selling them for the "kit" id say if you parted out at a local dealer it would be 250+...
 

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sorry just subscribing I'll be trying this as soon as the wiring gets here.

Side note anybody tell me what those really long nice led light bars are? err.. who there made by
 

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Always Smooth
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225 Posts
If the key is in the ACC position will the upfitter switches work?

Is there any way (easily) to make it so one (or more) of the upfitter switches are always hot, meaning you don't need the key in the RUN (or ACC) position to make them work?
 

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1st murdered 2011 psd
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1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
key on for them to work is kind of a failsafe to not leave somthing on and kill the battery... im sure you can probably ground something out fooling it to think key is on, otherwise just add your own constant hot toggle in an inconspicuous spot...
 

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Always Smooth
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key on for them to work is kind of a failsafe to not leave somthing on and kill the battery... im sure you can probably ground something out fooling it to think key is on, otherwise just add your own constant hot toggle in an inconspicuous spot...
I realize that, but my ham radio that I plan on installing already has that feature. It will turn off after inactivity after a user programmed time (0.5 hr, 1 hr, then 1 hr increments up to 12 hrs or something to that effect).

Also have an ARB fridge freezer I plan on using (will plug into a 12v outlet) is very efficient and is able to run for a few days without draining the battery. It will maintain 30 F in 90 F heat, using less power than a standard headlight uses. It is also protected by a low battery protection which will shut down the fridge if the battery drain is too much (ie you havent ran your vehicle for 4 or 5 days but have left the fridge plugged in the whole time).

I just hope that the 12v outlets are not wired such that the key is required to be in for them to be hot. My truck has two outlets in the dash, one in the tray below the front jump seat, and one in the tray under the rear seat.

Anyone know about the 12v outlets needing the key to be inserted in order to work? It probably says in the user manual... just too lazy to go out and fetch it. Would be nice to have it as a PDF...
 
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