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Discussion Starter #1
how hard is it to do donuts on a e99 superduty how many donuts are there and are they just on top just on bottom of all four connections? also i heard of a boost leak detector how do you make that? thanks alot i would be lost without you guys :psn:
 

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There was an article on it a bit ago in dieselpowermag...they said it was a bit of a hastle to do. I believe there was just one on either side. Don't quote me on that though. I plan on doing this in the near future on mine as well. As for the leaks, you SHOULD be able to see slight soot around the connections where the donuts are. This would alert you to a leak in the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I need them ASAP Cause everything arount the connection is BLACK!
 

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Yup...sounds like it. haha You're probably losing some valuable boost my friend! Mine are starting to get a little black as well. Almost time for me to do the same.
 

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Paul
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Just two on the top connections. The bottom are metal to metal seal on the manifolds. It's kind of a pain because you are working in tight spaces with rusty bolts but not that bad. The bottom bolts on mine I just cut and replaced (mine is a 2000) but I also did the bellowed uppies.
 

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Village Idiot
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Bellowed pipes for a n e99 is 850 bucks.

Bean has some fancy brass rings iirc..
Not sure if the carquest chevy donuts fit an e99. Or not
 

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Depending on how much money you want to spend you could do a 99.5 and later conversion. Up pipes are half the price and then you just need a turbo and pedestal, spyder, 3 inch plenums. Just a thought.
 

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I like turtles
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If there leaking that bad I bet your up pipes are so grooved that new donuts will not seal. If you are planning on digging into it start covering all the bolts and clamps in penetrating oil now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
its the bottom passenger connection thats leaking what do i kave to do about that?:confused:
 

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Paul
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replace the bolts and tighten them evenly
 

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Busy Busy
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You have to remove the up-pipes to replace the donuts.

You can remove the pipes, cut the ends about 3" from the end, flip it and weld it and you have a "new" crush area on the pipes.

I usually grind about 1/16" of an inch off the clamping side of the up-pipe and use nickel anti-seize.


Removal:
Soak upper and lower bolts with PB Blaster twice a day everyday for at least a week before you attempt anything.

Hope that the bolts don't break off in the manifold. They will be impossible to remove in the truck in my experience. If the bolts break off... leave them alone unless you can bang it out but usually I can't. A 90* air drill helps but I can't always get that in there depending on which bolt it is.
 

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Village Idiot
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If my bolts are anything like the one the ebpv line was on my manifold i am in deep chit
When it comes time to do mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
do i still need to do the donuts if its the bottoms leak?
 

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I like turtles
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Unless you remove the pipes you should not have to replace them.
 

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PB Blaster is complete shiet compared to this stuff..

get the AeroKroil stuff. It's magical compared to PB.

Google-Deal Order Page
 

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I've NEVER found it at a parts store. You get it way cheaper using that Google special online anyways. Order some up, and spray away, and be amazed.

Probably the best thing in an aerosol can for loosening up rusted nuts/bolts/hardware
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the bolts broke off but they have a nut on the opposite side so once they broke they just fell out so ill get some new bolts at work tomorrow and have her back going tomorrow evening thanks for the help
 

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I like turtles
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I usually just cut those out and replace with new bolts. Sorry I should have told you that earlier in the thread.
 
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