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Discussion Starter #1
My 97 PSD never seems warm up. The stock gauge wont come off cold. I went and bought a sunpro gauge. Tested it in some boiling water first and it read about 210 when it started to boil. It never reads above 130-140 in my truck. Outside temp is around 40 degrees. I also still have good heat. What t-stat should be in my truck? It is stock with the exception of a superchips tuner 3" downpipe and no resonator. What temperature should it be running at? Also is there a temp sensor that goes to the computer and a seperate one for the stock gauge? i had to take the 1 for the stock gauge out.
 

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Idk exact temps but it should never be at boiling point where exactly is your stock gauge reading at as in which letter of normal mine only makes it to the no part
 

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these trucks run cool....some folk even pull the rad fan in winter...I've had my truck 4 years now...never seen the gauge past the "O" in nOrmal...hth
 

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i had the same problem and found that my thermostat was stuck open. i replaced it with DS 203 and now its fine. 203 is between the letters M and A.
it gets to the letter A then it opens and goes to center and back to A as i drive. if it sits and idles for a more than 5 min it will stay straight center. no boiling and no overheat.
 

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BROKE as a JOKE
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yep, same thing here. never gets above 'N'ormal. figured it was the tstat. i'll run it until i need to fix it.
 

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I have my fan replaced with a electric one on a full manual switch and have my radiator completley blocked with cardboard. My truck still doesnt get over the N in Normal mode.

The water temp sensor is on the front of the motor, I'm pretty sure On the water pump. has a red wire with a 90* black boot plugged ontop of it. make sure you have a secure connection there. It will default to Cold if its unplugged or has a poor connection
 

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BROKE as a JOKE
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I have my fan replaced with a electric one on a full manual switch and have my radiator completley blocked with cardboard. My truck still doesnt get over the N in Normal mode.

The water temp sensor is on the front of the motor, I'm pretty sure On the water pump. has a red wire with a 90* black boot plugged ontop of it. make sure you have a secure connection there. It will default to Cold if its unplugged or has a poor connection
Good idea, thanks :psn:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
like i said i pulled the stock sending unit out to put a mechanical gauge in because i cant break the plug loose for an extra sending unit. but before it wouldn't even make it to "normal." It would come up to the C. Basically it would hardly come up off the peg even in summer. Does anyone know if that electrical sending unit for the stock gauge sends a reading to the computer? Im gonna buy a T stat Friday and see if that helps.
 

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use a scan tool to see what your water temperature is. If the computer sees 200 degrees but the gauge is reading cold, then its a gauge problem, not the sensor or wiring.

IMO....that scenario is unlikely, but worth double checking.
 

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7.3noob i know its a 4 year old post but im have the same problem. What was the out come did the thermostat make a difference?
 

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I put a Diesel Site 203* thermostat in my truck a couple of years ago and the gauge runs right around the m and the a in normal. My stock thermostat never got above the N.

But as was said a diesel truck runs on the cool side.
 

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I put a Diesel Site 203* thermostat in my truck a couple of years ago and the gauge runs right around the m and the a in normal. My stock thermostat never got above the N.

But as was said a diesel truck runs on the cool side.
That's where mine runs with the 205 and no fan.
Old one was a 185 or some crap. It would around o to r.
But my radiator fins were also gunked up, which I cleaned out real good when I was replacing the pump and Stat.
 

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It was 18 this morning. Plugged in 3hrs started warmed up and drove about 30mins just got above C. Even summer days it only gets to N. I order a 203 and try it
 

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our computers don't see water temp just oil temp
on mine i see around 200* oil steady driving unloaded in the summer with water needle on the r-m area if its in the upper m area its usually 210-212ish oil ( only gets there with some weight on it )
 

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Hope you don't mind if I jump on this post too. I'm having trouble with a 95 E350, 7.3L PSD that belongs to a friend. Over the winter (cold), they thought something was wrong with the way it ran because low power. Well it ended up just being the EBPV closing while cold & the restriction caused them to think there was a problem, but I found that it wasn't warming up much either. The coolant was TERRIBLE & the water pump bearings didn't feel great so new pump, full flush w/ new coolant, new 192 T-stat, & T-stat neck. It runs pretty well, but won't warm up. I let it idle for an hour & the gauge barely reaches the first line (above C & below NORMAL). With a infrared temp gauge & about 50-60 degrees ambient temps, the upper hose & radiator is 60-65 & the water pump housing shows about 100-120. The T-stat housing is about 90. I don't think the T-stat would be opening because the hose & radiator are cold yet. I'm thinking about trying a 205 T-stat though & see what happens. Any thoughts? Thanks guys!
 

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Make sure the fan clutch is not locked on. Mine was locked on and never warmed up.

The OEM fan clutch is around $400 and installed one a Hayden one. The Hayden one never worked correctly. I removed the Hayden one and installed a Horton electric fan clutch. The Horton is controlled manually, AC high pressure switch and a coolant temp switch. Truck warms up quicker now. Hopefully mileage is up but I won't know that until I do a road trip.

Billy T.
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The viscous fan clutches when cold are locked up/have resistance. After driving around and/or spinning for a while when cold, free up. There should be no resistance.

Drive the truck around and get it warm (if you can). Pop the hood while the motor is still running. See if you can observe the fan while in the driver's seat or have someone look at the fan. While watching the fan, shut the motor off. If the fan doesn't keep spinning, the fan clutch is bad. If the fan keeps spinning, it's good.

There is a broom test to test the fan clutch but it's risky and never done it.

The fan clutch should be briefly engaged upon cold start up. Once the internal fluid circulates, it should release.

Billy T.
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Remember diesels run cool when they are just putting around town or idling. Does it warm up when it is taken out on the freeway and ran at highway speeds for a while?
 
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