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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I went out to start my truck this morning so I could go to work and it wouldnt start. It would just crank and crank but no start. It spins over very fast and just like it should.

There are no codes that my CTS could pull. I have 60psi of fuel pressure, over 600psi of ICP while cranking, and 48.5-49.0v of FICM voltage. My question is where do you guys think I should look?? The truck has been driving and running great. No injector sticking or missing. I am thinking it is something electrical and wondering where I should start looking. I dont have any diagnostic equipment other than my CTS, SCT, and a volt meter.
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I am inclined to think that it was either the cam shaft position sensor or crank shaft position sensor but am not a certified mechanic and am therefore not sure.
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll have to check.
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok ran out and scrolled through the menu options for PIDs and there is nothing for crank or cam shaft sensing that I could tell.
 

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1,592 Posts
maybe try plugging it in and see if that will work. when my glow plug control module went out it wouldnt start, i had to crank on it forever just to get the huge clouds of smoke out of it.
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So get this the truck started when I tried it this afternoon. I didnt do anything to it. I wish I would have paid attention to what the tachometer was doing while I was cranking it earlier but I didnt even think to look. That would have atleast narrowed it down to either the crank or cam shaft sensor. I am pretty sure it is an electrical issue.
 

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o those are fun to track down!
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I did. Thanks for the input but I have reason to belive my ICP is fine. My IPR valve and HPOP only have 2k miles on them so does it sound more likely that I have a bad hpop/ipr valve or that a sensor is either on the fritz or bit the dust??
 

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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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1,951 Posts
did you put the updated STC fitting on when you replaced it? I'd say it is definitely related to either your IPR or HPOP. check the orings on the ipr valve too....
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes the new HPOP came with the new STC fitting.
 

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it's an 02 05 08
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930 Posts
perhaps some weak injectors and when it warmed up outside it would fire up
 

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7.3 fan
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271 Posts
lets start simple what was the battery voltage? these trucks need every last volt of energy they can get.Even if it sounds like its cranking fine it may not have the voltage for the electronics..... how cold was it did it through any smoke while cranking? that could be glow plug issue....
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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1,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I didnt monitor battery voltage. I did not notice any smoking while cranking.
 

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matt
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911 Posts
i would replace the cam shaft first its the easy one and ive had to change mine twice. thats what my truck did when they went out
 

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matt
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its easy to change just reach behind the power steering pump from under the truck and its only one 10mm bolt.
 

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The Unseen Mod
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4,123 Posts
Check your grounds, buddy here at work had that same problem, I checked his motor to cab ground and it was melted, one is located on the passenger side bck up to above th heater core box and AC lines back firewall, other is under the truck body to frame ground.
 

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I have never found a bad cam or crank sensor on a 6.0. Changed lots of cam sensors on 7.3s but not a one on the 6.0.
 

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matt
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well lucky you then
 
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