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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #1
I was pulling in my driveway almost idling and the truck just died. didnt sputter out or run funny just died. The trailer charge fuse was blown but none others. There is fuel in the fuel bowl and shoots out when it is cranked and bled. All the tachometer moves and lights and sounds work except the wait to start light does not come on anymore. Gave it a shot of either and it sputtered pretty good but didnt want to start it. No smoke from either or when cranking. Check engine light came on imidiatley when it died and wont shut off but like I said the glow plug wait to start light will not come on. Any onfo would be great!
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #4
I got rid of your other thread, if you want this one moved to the OBS section i will put it there but please dont post 2 threads of the same subject.
Okay sorry. Just trying to get as much advice as possible before I have to go back to school monday.
 

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Super Hauler!
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If the tach moves while cranking its not the cam sensor
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #7
I ran into the same issue with a 96 that would not start, no wait to start, i hunted and hunted and ended up being one of the big fuses in the panel under the hood.
I tested all the fuses but for what its worth maybe I should just replace all of them... How do you know if one of the square relays are bad under the hood. And the tach still moves so probably not the Cam position sensor. but Im gonna try that too. But does this sound like something really serious or something more along the lines of a pain in the A$$ but not too drastic...
 

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JFURNER77
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Where in Ohio are you located?
The "wts" lamp is a signal from PCM. Could be faulty PCM, short in signal or lamp. Check power supply and out-put at PCM. If you have CEL, get codes. Check all fuses under hood.Put a volt meter on GP relay to verify it is working.

You better watch sprayin' ether if GP's are hot!!
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #9
Where in Ohio are you located?
The "wts" lamp is a signal from PCM. Could be faulty PCM, short in signal or lamp. Check power supply and out-put at PCM. If you have CEL, get codes. Check all fuses under hood.Put a volt meter on GP relay to verify it is working.

You better watch sprayin' ether if GP's are hot!!
Lebanon Ohio. Just north of Cincy and south of dayton. Warren County. about 5 min from Kings Island. Anyone With any tips Im gonna be messing with this thing all day call or txt 513 317 7434. My name Is cyrus. And what do I need to check codes?
 

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Not sure on an OBS, but in a SD, those symptoms would yell Fuel Bowl Heater. I don't even know if an OBS has one. On a SD, the fuel bowl heater shares a fuse with the PCM, (awesome engineering move). Check that fuse really good.

on edit: Oh and if that fuse is blown, unplug the fuel bowl heater. You don't need it anyway. (another of Ford's "better ideas")
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #11
Replace Cam Position Sensor... Still no workie. Looked in fuel bowl at heater coil and it is not broken and shorting out. I checked all fuses for continuity and they checked out. The CEL went off after I changed the CPS. Plugged a Edge Evo. in to read codes and it said to turn on the ignition even though the key was turned on and it wouldnt read any codes. But it read codes on dads 7.3. The Wait to start light still will not come on and will still not fire on starting fluid.
 

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Check out this wiring diagram. Check the relay for the PCM. You can swap the one for the heater blower in there to see if it fixes the issue. If it fixes it, you can pick them up at any parts store. I would buy a couple and throw one in your glove box, right next to your spare CPS.

 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #13
Check out this wiring diagram. Check the relay for the PCM. You can swap the one for the heater blower in there to see if it fixes the issue. If it fixes it, you can pick them up at any parts store. I would buy a couple and throw one in your glove box, right next to your spare CPS.

Now here is a thought. When I removed the mane engine wiring harness from the injector harness the passenger side had Identicle melting points on the engine harness male ends and oil in the female ends of the injector harness. Now strangely enough my glow plug relay is messed up in the fact that I have 12V to the power side, the two small grounds, but never to the exit side (big stud with two wires comming out) even when I crank it. Now when looking at this wiring diagram It appears that the prongs on the injector harness are labeled in accordance to what they go to. The only prong that melted the engine harness is the one closest to the fire wall which is connected to the glowplug relay. The melting/cracks are identicle on both engine harness male ends and injector harness female ends. The drivers side is fine however... Now Jfurner77 walked me through checking the wiring harness that supplies the power to the PCM and all voltage checked out so I know juice is being supplioed to the PCM correctly even though I can not get any codes out of the thing.
 

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Starting to sound like a dead PCM.
 

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No, but the fried wiring harness could take out the PCM.
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #17
Is it possible for the wiring harness to cause the truck to not show any codes even if the PCM is okay? What I guess im asking is should I replace the injector harness and the engine harness before I replace the PCM just to see if that fixes it? And what would cause all of this? Its not gonna happen again as soon as i fix it all is it?
 

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I would for sure replace the harness first. I don't think the PCM could fry a harness, not enough power running through it to do that. But a shorted out harness could for sure fry a PCM. The IDM sends ~120V to each injector, that and the alternator is putting out a lot of amperage. Hopefully the harnesses will do the job. Good luck.

Refer back to that wiring diagram, it is a good source of information.
 

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DAMN THATS HOT!
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Discussion Starter #19
I would for sure replace the harness first. I don't think the PCM could fry a harness, not enough power running through it to do that. But a shorted out harness could for sure fry a PCM. The IDM sends ~120V to each injector, that and the alternator is putting out a lot of amperage. Hopefully the harnesses will do the job. Good luck.

Refer back to that wiring diagram, it is a good source of information.
Are you refering to the injector harness or the engine harness? I was planning on just replaceing the 4 male end connectors on the engine harness that plug into the female ends on the injector harness since I was getting voltage to the PCM and replacing the injector harnesses all together.
 

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Exactly what you were saying. Might want to pull the engine harness out and check it all out really good.
 
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