Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Immediately checked codes with Torque. P1397 p0611 and a cylinder 4 code. This has been happening randomly for awhile. Just had high pressure system completely redone. After getting truck towed home and jiggling wires and checking fuses the ficm voltage finally came back on and truck fired right up. Need some guidance on this one.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
You sure that code isn't P1379 (not P1397)?

I would like to see the FICM input voltage (ie vehicle voltage - "VPower") just to rule out issues w/ the alternator. P1379 would indicate that there is high system voltage (FICM logic power is high). P1397 is "System Voltage Out Of Self Test Range" and might be applicable, but I didn't think that was a diesel code.

After that, I would consider getting the FICM repaired ..... How else are you going to see 100V? I question if that is a real voltage or not, but have nothing to go on other than your post. There is nothing at 100V in your electrical system, so if the value is real, then the FICM voltage amplification circuitry has failed.

Typically the FICM increases voltage by a factor of 4 (ish). I have trouble believing that your alternator is putting out 25V, but maybe ........... You didn't connect up your two batteries in series did you (instead of parallel)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It may have been the p1379. Alternator seems to be around 13.6. I have a new power board but normally the ficm puts out 47-48. The stalling is random. But when it stalls there is no voltage in or out of ficm and no injector clatter. There is also a stutter when accelerating once warmed up. Oil pressure seems fine and there are no codes then. I'm so frustrated after all the money for the high pressure system including the branch tube. Seems that the pcm stops the ficm from turning on when this happens. I hear the logic board goes bad on occasion. I know i need and egr valve, but don't think that could cause the stalling.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
The FICM absolutely could cause the stalling.

You could also have an issue w/ the FICM relay or the harness.

I just don't understand the 100V in the post title (especially if it is "logic voltage"), but oh well.

What power board did you install, an OEM one or an aftermarket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Installed a dorman and it seemed ok for a little while. The 100v was a short lived code. And went to 0 right after that. Seemed like a voltage spike in the ficm and then it went to zero like out got shut off. Voltage came back later after playing with fuses and jiggling wires.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
Can't help you w/ the Power Board then. I absolutely hate Dorman products ... especially their electronic stuff. I would suspect an issue with it before anything else!

Personally I think you need to send the FICM in to FICMrepair.com, but that will almost certainly cost you $$'s to get an OEM power board installed. That said, if you could narrow down what things being jiggled correspond to the voltage coming back, then it might be a clue.

I will post a link to your other thread on the subject because it has pertinent information in it (ie the FICM relay has been replaced, you had loose negative battery terminals, etc).

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/10-6-0l-power-stroke-technical-info/561875-hesitation-when-towing-now-random-stalling.html#post6138645

Just to add a comment on the work that has been done ...... the late HPOP's don't go out very often. Also, the branch tubes aren't a common failure item (unless the STC fitting fails catastrophically). It almost sounds like you were taken advantage of by a shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I was skeptical about the hpop but they showed me the branch tube and the stc fitting had failed. The branch tube was cracked right whereit meets the square where it meets the stc fitting.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
I was skeptical about the hpop but they showed me the branch tube and the stc fitting had failed. The branch tube was cracked right whereit meets the square where it meets the stc fitting.
Good to get all that work done in the high pressure oil system, now you shouldn't have to worry about those components. The updated fitting has been very reliable. The updated dummy plugs and standpipes also seem to be doing well!

It is not real common for that kind of "catastrophic" failure, but it does happen. At least the rear cover wasn't cracked.

It is hard not to recommend the STC fitting upgrade when folks post up about "bulletproofing". It is so much cheaper to replace it than to experience the bad failure. That said, I would guess by now that more vehicles have been upgraded w/ the one-piece fitting than those that haven't!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I would absolutely recommend getting that fitting replaced. I guess it doesn't always take out the branch tube but it did in my case. Dorman is crap. Is the tech smart that much better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Just put a new Dorman power board since it had warranty. Idles a lot better. I will update after more driving. Hopefully change egr valve this week too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Justa brief update. The truck runs great with the new ficm board. Definitely have to get a quality board in the near future. Didn't realize the board could show good voltage but still have problems like stalling.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top