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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a tru cool on my truck and wondering what is too cold for trans temps. This time of year I dont even think the gauge moves. In the summer my gauge will read about 125 if I drive for awhile. Is this too cool?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Should I possibly consider by passing the stock cooler and just running the true cool?
 

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Don't worry about it. You'll seldom see the trans temp gauge move in the cold weather. I have the Tru Cool on my early '99 in series with the stock air to oil cooler - no OTW cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Even towing a 9,000# travel trailer in the hottest weather, I seldom saw temps more than 65 degrees above ambient. Pulling a heavy weight fifth wheeler or heavy stock trailer does demand more cooling than the Tru Cool though. Notice, in the cold weather, your tranny will not upshift all the way until the fluid warms up via the bypass system. If I said something not quite correct, I know Mark K. will step in with his extensive knowledge of the 4R100.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mine will upshift just not lock the tc. Even in summer though, it can be 90 out and i have to drive awhile to get to 125. This is unloaded of course. Doesnt 125 seem too low for normal operating?
 

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A lot of guys cover their larger trans coolers up in the winter. There's nothing wrong with 125, I'd love for mine to operate at 125. Unloaded on a 90 deg day, I run 185-190 with my stock cooler. I'm about to upgrade to the 6.0 cooler for that reason
 

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Should I possibly consider by passing the stock cooler and just running the true cool?
I would replace the stock air to oil with the true cool, or even better, a 6.0L cooler. DO NOT remove the radiator cooler. You'll need that in hot weather.

Notice, in the cold weather, your tranny will not upshift all the way until the fluid warms up via the bypass system. If I said something not quite correct, I know Mark K. will step in with his extensive knowledge of the 4R100.
And here I am!

The trans will upshift all the way at any temperature. The torque converter clutch won't lock until the trans warms up. There is no bypass system to help warm the trans. That didn't start until the TorqShift behind the 6.0L.

The 4R100 has a bypass, but it does not help warm the trans. It only opens if the cooler circuit gets plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dont think mine being a 99 has the radiator cooler does it? I thought that started in 01 or am I thinking of something else?

I will probably remove the stock one and leave my tru cool up in the grill where it now. Should get a bit warmer that way but still get plenty of air flow. Will switch it come spring, too cold right now.
 

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I have a 6.0L cooler and in the winter even with placing a piece of cardboard over the cooler it doesn't get over 100*. I was even thinking about a fluid bypass from Derale but if covering up the cooler so there is no airflow and it still doesn't get over 100* then a bypass might be a waste of time and money. John Woods said that as long as the temp gets over 125* we are good, but I just hate seeing the temp gauge not move:(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea come spring I will get some hose and see what my temps are with just the true cool, and go from there. How big is the 6.0 cooler? My brother had one on his dodge when he had a torqshift behind it but I dont remember the size
 

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Yea come spring I will get some hose and see what my temps are with just the true cool, and go from there. How big is the 6.0 cooler? My brother had one on his dodge when he had a torqshift behind it but I dont remember the size
The stock cooler is 9 rows. And I believe the 6.0 cooler comes in 26 and 31 rows, so they are significantly larger.
 

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D66stroke
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Can it hurt the converter when driving it cold since it doesn't lock until warm?
 

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I dont think mine being a 99 has the radiator cooler does it? I thought that started in 01 or am I thinking of something else?
There was no radiator cooler in '99 or the first half of '00. Ford had to replace many transmissions due to overheating on those that did not have the radiator cooler. Many of those trucks had new radiators installed with a cooler. Yours left the factory without one, but it could have been added later.

I have a 6.0L cooler and in the winter even with placing a piece of cardboard over the cooler it doesn't get over 100*. I was even thinking about a fluid bypass from Derale but if covering up the cooler so there is no airflow and it still doesn't get over 100* then a bypass might be a waste of time and money. John Woods said that as long as the temp gets over 125* we are good, but I just hate seeing the temp gauge not move:(
If you do get the Derale thermostat, I recommend trying the 1/2" one. Last winter several people I know installed the 3/8" one, which makes sense since the lines are 3/8". But each of them had cooling problems in the summer. Apparently the 3/8" one has too much restriction. I don't know anyone that has tried the 1/2" one, but I think it should be better. I just don't know that for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There was no radiator cooler in '99 or the first half of '00. Ford had to replace many transmissions due to overheating on those that did not have the radiator cooler. Many of those trucks had new radiators installed with a cooler. Yours left the factory without one, but it could have been added later.
Yea when I added the true cool I have no lines running up there, gonna say mine still does not have that. Gonna try the true cool straight and see how that does. Will that work mark?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can it hurt the converter when driving it cold since it doesn't lock until warm?
I dont think so I am not an expert but I believe it does so it slips and lets it warm up quicker. Thats what my buddy who used to work for Ford told me, maybe Mark can confirm.
 

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There was no radiator cooler in '99 or the first half of '00. Ford had to replace many transmissions due to overheating on those that did not have the radiator cooler. Many of those trucks had new radiators installed with a cooler. Yours left the factory without one, but it could have been added later.


If you do get the Derale thermostat, I recommend trying the 1/2" one. Last winter several people I know installed the 3/8" one, which makes sense since the lines are 3/8". But each of them had cooling problems in the summer. Apparently the 3/8" one has too much restriction. I don't know anyone that has tried the 1/2" one, but I think it should be better. I just don't know that for sure.

Mark, please correct me here. I always thought the idea behind the cooler in the radiator was to assist in warming up the transmission fluid in colder temps. Or does it work both ways? Assisting in warming up and also keeping the temps in check while hot?
 

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Can it hurt the converter when driving it cold since it doesn't lock until warm?
No, it won't hurt it in any way.
Yea when I added the true cool I have no lines running up there, gonna say mine still does not have that. Gonna try the true cool straight and see how that does. Will that work mark?
It probably will work. The hardest thing for this setup to do is backing a trailer. That's where you really need to watch the temperature.

I dont think so I am not an expert but I believe it does so it slips and lets it warm up quicker. Thats what my buddy who used to work for Ford told me, maybe Mark can confirm.
That is correct.
Mark, please correct me here. I always thought the idea behind the cooler in the radiator was to assist in warming up the transmission fluid in colder temps. Or does it work both ways? Assisting in warming up and also keeping the temps in check while hot?
All right, I will correct you.

The radiator cooler never, ever, ever warms the transmission fluid. Ever. In any condition. I've tested this as cold as -40°F and the radiator cooler was always colder than the ATF coming into it. Since it was ALWAYS cooler there is no heat added to the ATF. Not at all. Ever.

The ONLY purpose for the radiator cooler is to cool the ATF. It does that in summer and in the winter when you really don't want the ATF cooled.
 

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There was no radiator cooler in '99 or the first half of '00. Ford had to replace many transmissions due to overheating on those that did not have the radiator cooler. Many of those trucks had new radiators installed with a cooler. Yours left the factory without one, but it could have been added later.


If you do get the Derale thermostat, I recommend trying the 1/2" one. Last winter several people I know installed the 3/8" one, which makes sense since the lines are 3/8". But each of them had cooling problems in the summer. Apparently the 3/8" one has too much restriction. I don't know anyone that has tried the 1/2" one, but I think it should be better. I just don't know that for sure.
I keep thinking about it, but every time I want too go down to Summit Racing we get a winter storm:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I rarely tow and if I do its nothing super heavy so I think the true cool will suit me fine. Will give it a try when it warms up.
 

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Ok, Im a bit confused here. so the mid 2000 through 2003 superdutys should have transmission coolers in the radiator?

My 2001 has the stock one (or what I thought to be stock) mounted in front of the radiator, and I added a tru cool in front of everything.

I don't see any temp in the winter, the gauge might move up to the 100 mark, but its the bottom of the gauge so it could be my imagination. In the summer I usually sit about 60 or 70 degrees above ambient.

After reading this thread I feel like Im missing something here...:shrug:
 

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D66stroke
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This was an argument before, not really an argument but it was talked about on another thread, but it doesn't sound like you NEED a cooler in the radiator. Before I bypassed mine, my temps would steadily rise, now that it's bypassed and has a bigger ATW cooler up front, the temp doesn't move. I know it's winter and the temp shouldn't really get above 120ish or even move at all on the gauge, but with my radiator cooler inline, my temps would get to 160 and keep going when sitting at lights and stuff, and that would be in 20 and 30 degree weather. Not saying it should be bypassed, just saying thats my experience with it. It's recommened because how is the ATF getting air to the cooler when in reverse and when stopped. I look at it like this, how long is the average person in reverse at a time? And unless you live in NYC how long are you gonna be sitting in traffic at a time without moving? I'm pretty sure the average person would throw their truck in park after sitting still for a few minutes. Not trying to start an argument, just stating my experience with it
 
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