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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok ithis is kinda long but I'm tryin to give the best discription. I was stuck real bad in the mud this weekend. Like stuck friday and didn't get it out till sunday. This is th truck in my signature. I buried it bad all the way to the head light on the driver side and the passenger side was up on solod ground. I don't know how to put a pic on here from my phone. But I was stuck and almost didn't get the truck out. A buddy yanked me out after 2 others tryed. He had to snatch me really hard and the whole time well I was jus hammering on the pedal. I didn't try rocking it foward and back but a few times. My trans temp didn't go into red but I kno the factory gauge does suck. But this was the process for almost 2 hours before it came out. Of course we kept stopping n changin the angle we were pulling in between. Afterwards when it did come out the front driver side tire blew the bead on the rim and the valve stem was sheered off. So I fixed that and got all the mud out of the rims so it didn't wobble. Now for the problem on th drive home I discovered no 3rd gear and no OD and the OD light was flashin. No matter what I do the thing won't shift and it just redlines at 55mph so drivein is limitied if I'm driving 55 and let of the pedal it doesn't shift the rpms jus drop right to idle with no resistance but that may be normal I'm not sure. It just will not shift into 3 or OD 1st and 2nd both shift normal. Got it home no tranny fluid leaking so I thought water in tranny. Drained it replaced filter and no fix. There was no water in the tranny. I ran my AE scan tool on it n got 2 codes P0782 2-3 shift malfunction. No clue what can cause it to not shift. The other code was ABS n I don't remebr the number but it was RF signal missing. I figure it is refering to right front abs sensor issue. I disconected the sensor n reconnected it and it brought up a different code and said RF circuit fail. So I don't kno what that code means but please help I think I blew a shift sloenoid what can I do? How do I start testing this?
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
bump...
ok also more on this i hooked up the Auto Enginuity scan tool and took it for a drive and monitored the gear comand signal and right around the time it is supose to shift i get a yellow 6 that later turns to a red 8.im not really into rocket science but this i assume means the PCM is telling the tranny to shift....but no shift is taking place so what do i need to do to narrow it down?i dont know this tranny inside and out nor any tranny that well for that matter but im mechanical enough to rebuild it if i had to but im not so sure thats neccesary yet.i dont have the money for a kit either and wont for a while.but from best i can tell with that code and what its doing is that it has to be the shift solenoid pack or something to do with the accumalator valve for 2-3.but wouldnt it still skip 3rd and shift to OD? maybe not but i dont know either which is why i posted this on here.can i test the solenoid pack? and how would i test the accumaltor if thats even possible? (im not sure how testing a valve would be so possible in the tranny pan) this was moved here from the 7.3 tech page for an answer.i hear someone hereis a tranny guru but cant remeber the name. please help i dont have money to take it to the shop and i cant keep driveing it like this for fear of causeing more damage.
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
and also wanted to note when i pulled the pan there was no metal or any debris at all so im trying to rule out a mechanical failure so i can know if i can fix this from dropping the pan or if i have to yak the tranny.also what about the bands? where are they and how would i adjust them or check them? thanks guys
 

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riverjet
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459 Posts
I am no expert and still learning,but you can inspect the accumulator by looking at the shift valves. Make sure the bores have no scratches,broken springs,mod valves don't stick in the bores and that the accumulator body is not warped.Google 4r100 valve body mods and you will find lots of information.You can make your tranny shift realy nice by playin with the accumulator provided the trans is healthy. The accumulator takes about 10 minutes to get out. It is the body at the front of the trans.
 

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542 Posts
check the solenoid harness on the outside of the transmission.
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ok guys i checked the harness on the out side of the tranny and dont get me wrong mud everywhere but nothing loose everything seems to be good and tight. as for the accumalator valves they are in the valve body if i understand correctly so ill be dropping the pan to check this out some time soon.thanks guys keep it coming.this thing is killing me
 

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First thing I would clean everything. I pulled the solenoid pack out of my trans for some odd reason. When I put it back in i forgot to plug it in. It did something very similar to yours. I would make sure the connectors arent packed with water and mud.
 

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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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3,100 Posts
ok guys i checked the harness on the out side of the tranny and dont get me wrong mud everywhere but nothing loose everything seems to be good and tight.
That's not checking anything useful. You have to unplug the connectors and check the pins for dirt/mud/water/damage/corrosion etc.
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ok did all the connectors today sprayed them with terminal protector wiped them and cleaned them. this is what i found.all the connectors were fine and dry and clean inside EXCEPT that one on the passenger side you refered to.water came pouring out of it when i pulled it off. i dried the connector and everything i let it set off for a long while to dry and then verified it was dry with q-tips and it was completly dry and i hooked it back up and took it for a test run.with no change. still wont shift. so what should i check next?
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Everybody poops <~ see?
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615 Posts
Have you done a hydraulic line pressure test, from the test ports on the outside of the case? Just find the pressure specs, and plug in a 0-300 psi guage. A better indicator of a soft internal failure (with no metal debris in pan) is air checking the clutch engagement above the valve body. I'm no 4R100 expert, but you should be able to test the TCC operation, aswell as the UD, L/R, 2-4, and OD clutches. These tests are easily done, and usually point you in the right direction.
 

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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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3,100 Posts

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
ok mark that was what i was thinking was next.ill check the solenoid first and visualy check the accum valves while im in there and if both those pass move onto the test dennisr suggested. how do i need to test the individule solenoids?or the whole pack at once? what do i need to do after removeing the solenoid pack? i can get the wiring harness connector pin out diagrams but what wires do i need to put power to to test this? and im assumeing as with any other solenoid i will be listening for an audible click for good and no noise for bad?
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
as for a new tranny been looking into it but i dont think a new tranny or rebuild is neccasary yet.but if so ill buy a used tranny and keep this one to build bullet proof later when i have some money.would be damn nice ya know?lol
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
ok guys i got the solenoid body and the accumalotor body out not sure what to do from here how do i testfor continuity? the truck is now down and i need to get this done asap. i notice my valves in the accum body it seems 2 are flush and 1 of them is not fluchs.kinda like its sucked into the body.im hoping i just found my problem
 

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Solareclpse
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ok found the accumalator to be fine.everything was smooth but as for the solenoid pack i got something odd. all the solenoids click except for shift solenoid A.according to my diagram anyways its shift solenoid A.shift solenoid B clicks fine. so does the tcc solenoid and the coast solenoid. so in all my genius i took it apart to try and fine something wrong seperated the solenoid body from the solenoid pack and couldnt fine anything wrong so i put it all back together and now nothing clicks but i think my testing leads just wont pass enough power to the connector pins. so i have a multimeter isnt there a way i can test the solenoids useing ohms? i jus dont remeber???? my truck is now down and im desprerate for help at this point but at least have ruled the problem down to the solenoid so it seems.
 
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