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ate lug
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever heard of/used these?



Broke the #5 glow plug, no options left but to pull head. Truck has baby swamps, and after almost 10 years of running them, im pretty sure im never going to put a bigger injector in. Not really sure i need studs at all, but i figure if im in there, why not.
 

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Trust me, I got this...
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1,400 Posts
You're right, you really don't need studs. But if you do go studs, absolutely only go with ARP. Any and all others I have encountered have resulted in redoing the job with ARP's.

On a only semi-serious side note, you sure you cant just crank it over a few times and try to blow it out lol?
 

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Project Shamu
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2,728 Posts
Maybe even pull the injector and cup, bigger hole makes for an easier exit path?
 

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ate lug
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Honest opinion time. If no-name studs are a risk, then i wont put them in. OEM head bolts and go? I added water injection years ago for EGTs, i only use methanol to keep the tank from freezing in the winter. Id like to one day put on a Beans D66 and then maybe an IC, both primarily for the decrease in EGTs. I can honestly say i dont need more power as this isnt my 'toy', my bronco is. This just tows it around, and hauls a trailer, steel, wood pellets, etc.

I have been tinkering with the diesel on an off for about two weeks, while i finish our laundry room/bathroom remodel. I wish the glow plug would come out, but she must be swollen bad. I did this to it:


The hollow tip was stuck fast in the head. i tired cranking it over i cant tell you how many times over a couple days. Tried pulling the injector and filling the chamber with Quicksilver Power Tune and letting it soak for over a day, nothing would budge it. Finally i dropped a welding rod down into the hollow tip, lightly tapped it once with a ball peen, and it fell right down onto the piston. Unfortunately, the tip is not magnetic, so i cant fish it out via the injector hole. Unfortunately/fortunately, the injector cup is cracked anyway so im changing all 8, but with the cup removed the hole really isnt much bigger than 1/4" anyway. So at this point, im screwed, i gotta pull the head to retrieve the last piece.
 

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Trust me, I got this...
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1,400 Posts
Shoot, I have a fluid evacuator powered by shop air with a little 1/4" hose on the end that I would use to try to suck it out...

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

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Project Shamu
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2,728 Posts
I would be trying EVERYTHING before pulling the head. I've pulled the heads off a 7.3 in the truck, and it SUCKS!
 

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ate lug
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, everything looks good in there. 201k and i can still see the crosshatching in the bores, so im happy.
All the injector cups are out now. #5 was cracked and weeping. Most of them cracked during removal, which im guessing is expected. Monday im planning on installing all new cups, and then since the head is already off im gonna change the valve stem seals.

I have a new fuel line from pump to the heads, im hoping i can change it while the head is off (w/o removing the turbo), i guess we'll find out next week.
 

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ate lug
Joined
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
So yeah, you cant swap that fuel line with the turbo installed, theres no room to get it out. Hopefully tomorrow ill have the turbo out, as long as its not raining.

Also, id like to dispell the myth that removing the injector cup exposes a larger hole in the head; sadly that just isnt the case. Thia iant a great pic, but if you look closely, you can see the injector cup is already installed, and its damn near the same size hole as the hole in the head; i came up with ~.005" difference between the two.
 
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