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i know this thread is old but does everyone that done it still like it? iv read this thread and a few others and im kinda lost on when it is ok and safe for the truck to engage the lock up switch.
 

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Professional Hobo
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I just bought a switch and a little LED light for mine. I'm going to be putting this in sometime soon. This with an exhaust brake and I'll be set.

Chris K.
 

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Here we go!

Look down here:


Find the PURPLE with the YELLOW tracer:


Run the wire from the wire-switch, switch-ground. Put mine here:


Easily reached right here:


Pretty simple, so i didnt run 20 feet of wire i followed the trans harness to the fenderwell. Found the right wire, used a lighter to burn off the insulation, soldered on the wire, siliconed it and taped it up. Then i poked a hole in the steering column boot and fed the wire in. Then hooked it to the switch's one terminal, then the other terminal to the ebrake pedal bracket. VIOLA! t/c lockup on command! :evil

so i have a led lighted switch and it seems like its only working as an indicator light to show if its locked up or not instead of actually locking up. does it need a power source to interrupt the computer so it will lock up manually?? i know this is old but hopefully someone will reply.. thanks
 

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To those who are confused as to whats going on here...

All you're doing to completing a "grounded" circuit manually, instead of waiting for the computer to do it.

scenario 1
If you were to just tap into the current wire, run it to a single pole, single throw (basic on/off) switch, and run that switch to ground..
You would be able to lock the torque converter whenever you wanted, but the computer would still be able to lock it when it wanted to as well.


scenario 2
If you were to cut the current wire, run the transmission side of it to a single pole, single throw (basic on/off) switch, and run that switch to ground..
You would be able to lock the torque converter whenever you wanted, and computer would have no say in the matter, and could never control it.


scenario 3
If you were to cut into the current wire, run it to a 3 position switch, and run that switch (2 outputs) back to the computer end of the wire, and the remaining pole to a ground...
You would be able to chose between either of the above scenarios. Where you could (a) let the computer do its job, (b) lock it up, or (c) keep it unlocked without allowing the computer to have any control.


That being said, most people want the first scenario.

Also, @josh_mangan, If you want to shrink wrap it (recommended), simply cut the stock wire, then solder/shrink wrap both cut ends and your new wire all together. (scenario 1 above)
so i have it installed and only seem to notice it working till about 30mph
 

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D66stroke
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Could I just cut it in one place? Instead of cutting it up near the computer AND on the transmission side?
 

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some one help me understand this,

the wire (purp w/ yellow tracer) is a normally hot wire. so when u run it to the switch then to a ground, it seems to me that that would be bad. kinda like laying a wrench between the pos and neg on a battery. unless that is what the computer does anyway , and its supposed to do that.
 

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The purple w/ yellow wire is open (neither + or -) until the computer says it is OK to lock up the torque converter, then the computer grounds the wire, locking up the converter. (My simplified explanation of how it works untouched from factory.) The switch mod allows you to manually lock up the converter by wiring up a manual switch, either in place of or in conjunction with the computer. In place of means you will cut the wire from the computer to the trans (where ever you like) and attach a wire from the trans to a switch that is either open or grounded. In conjunction with means you will attached a wire between the computer and transmission to a switch that is either open or grounded. If you use a lighted switch you will need to run a fused power wire to the switch as well (power does not go to trans/computer). I did this along w/ the EBPV/exhaust brake mod & I use them both while towing to aide in stopping/slowing & I like it. Just remember to turn off before you stop.
 

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When I did a search on installing a torque converter lock up switch it seems that the purple wire with yellow tracer is the wire that controls lock up. It it supposed to be open, neither hot or ground, it grounds to lock up converter. Mine has full voltage until converter locks up then the voltage drops out.
Any ideas from the gurus out there, I am stumped on what to do....
 

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When I did a search on installing a torque converter lock up switch it seems that the purple wire with yellow tracer is the wire that controls lock up. It it supposed to be open, neither hot or ground, it grounds to lock up converter. Mine has full voltage until converter locks up then the voltage drops out.
Any ideas from the gurus out there, I am stumped on what to do....
Mine is the same way. Was told it was normal, its not actually "hot" search back through and find my post on it

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Isn't the button on the end of the shifter to unlock the convertor? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of using a 3 position switch to be either locked, computer controlled, or unlocked?
Compared to just a single pole switch, closed to lock, open for computer controlled, then just the shifter button for completely unlocked
 

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Stone Crusher
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Isn't the button on the end of the shifter to unlock the convertor? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of using a 3 position switch to be either locked, computer controlled, or unlocked?
Compared to just a single pole switch, closed to lock, open for computer controlled, then just the shifter button for completely unlocked
The button locks out fourth gear (OD). The converter will lock up in third. with or without the OD OFF button.
 

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OK thanks track speeder for clearing that up
 

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BigRed02
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When I did a search on installing a torque converter lock up switch it seems that the purple wire with yellow tracer is the wire that controls lock up. It it supposed to be open, neither hot or ground, it grounds to lock up converter. Mine has full voltage until converter locks up then the voltage drops out.

Any ideas from the gurus out there, I am stumped on what to do....

It shows 12V because it is flowing through the converter solenoid just waiting to go to ground. Once it finds ground the voltage drops to the potential of 0V (ground).
So that's the ground side of the solenoid, but it is not yet grounded. The voltage will show up there until it's grounded, them the load can operate (solenoid)
 

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take a switch (single throw single pole) and run one end to a ground then take the wire from the other side of the switch and tap into a wire comming from the trans harness right under your drivers seat that is purple with a yellow stripe on it. use a clip on type wire tap. just dont forget to unlock it before comming to a stop, trust me i felt like a jackass. but it greatly improves transmission temp and economy around town. have fun!
Than
take a switch (single throw single pole) and run one end to a ground then take the wire from the other side of the switch and tap into a wire comming from the trans harness right under your drivers seat that is purple with a yellow stripe on it. use a clip on type wire tap. just dont forget to unlock it before comming to a stop, trust me i felt like a jackass. but it greatly improves transmission temp and economy around town. have fun!
Thank you Thank you thank you! I've been searching and searching and searching just for this simple explanation on how to do this. Thank you so much!
 

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Than

Thank you Thank you thank you! I've been searching and searching and searching just for this simple explanation on how to do this. Thank you so much!
You are very welcome!
Glad it was useful!
 
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