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Discussion Starter #1
Going to be installing studs and springs later in the month, Any tips to make it go by easier? Besides jacking up the motor? Never done springs in a V8 before, only MX race bikes and such, is there a specific position the motor needs to be in when installing the push rods and rockers?
 

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Push rods come right out and there is not an exact position they need to be in. make sure they are in correctly before you put everything back together. They kind of "push" into place. Make sure the engine is at TDC for each bore before pulling the springs. I used a wrench on the flexplate "fly wheel" for your stick guys. I just used a long ass straw sticking into the cylinder to see what was TDC. Studs are strait forward and besides rocking the motor you should undo the tranny crossmember mount under the truck. I did mine without undoing the AC compressor or even the alternator.. You might want to though, its easy to set them aside. Make sure you segregate the short studs from the long ones as soon as you open the box.. the short ones will be used just behind the injectors and are shorter to clear the little jet/spray deal on the back of the injectors. Make sure you have new valve seals and i would buy the valve spring puller from oriellys if you can, its a good one. Also you will have to modify the tool to fit the rear most springs on either side of the engine. I cut the handle off and welded a 10mm bolt on to it. You will get a better understanding of how and how much you need to modify it once you get to that point. Torque them one at a time to 95 ft lbs and after you have done ALL at 95 the first time then go back to 125 or even 130 and call it a day. oh and get yourself a little magnet to catch the keepers on the end of each valve.. you will be glad you did

did you buy shims?
 

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its definatly easier with the motor out of the truck but if you take you time everything should be fine... jus do the studs one at a time..
on the springs if bring the piston to top dead center(i used a coat hanger) the valve can not fall very far down... jus make shure each hole is at top dead center when you start each one... with the injectors out the motor should bar over easily... take a floor jack and put a 2x4 under the manifold and raise it up till you get the clearance you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i was already planning on rocking the motor and such, same with the stick or whatever item in the injector bores to make sure im at TDC, havent bought springs or shims yet, is .30 over good to go with as an allaround shim if im not micking out the valve height? i read somewhere when installing the push rods its supposed to be at BDC to install them? Also, should i get new injector O rings? the hybrids im pulling have about 20k on them so far.
 

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yes.. new injectors o-rings.

and you dont have to install the pr's at bdc.... jus make shure you g back over all the rockers bolts once they have sat with some pressure on them to give the lifters time to bleed down..

and you should mesaure the valve springs installed height to get the correct shims for each valve spring..
 

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If your not measuring than the standard rule of thumb is .30. If you can get new O-rings I would and i would also replace the copper crush washer. All should be available in a kit for cheap.
 

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You can also put air in the glow plug hole to keep the valve in place. I used a compression adapter to screw into the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
go back over the rockers once they have had some pressure? You mean go back and make sure the torque is good?
 

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go back over the rockers once they have had some pressure? You mean go back and make sure the torque is good?


yes i would but others may disagree... after you get everything buttoned up and all the rocker arms tightened good with your pushrods installed of course jus leave it like tht and have a beer or 2, about 15 to 30 minutes should be plenty i would assume and then jus go back over all the rocker arms bolts one last time...
you prolly dont have to do it this way but i do...

goodluck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok sounds good thanks man, on another note, how do you all get the rear most injector in? Had some trouble last time i intalled these babies getting it to seat all the way
 

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ok sounds good thanks man, on another note, how do you all get the rear most injector in? Had some trouble last time i intalled these babies getting it to seat all the way
Push down on it as hard as you can.

Some say to use a dead blow soft hammer and lightly seat them with it. Others say don't hit injectors with a hammer.

I used a soft hammer, lightly tapping on them and never had an issue.

Check them with a straight edge when finished to ensure they are all seated.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah they are all easy to get seated except that last passenger side one that is up against the firewall, oh well.
 

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There were a few good pics on modified spring compressors and such, depending if yours has a star handle etc.
Torqing the studs varies a bit, be sure and use the arp lube etc.

Have a look in the library or similar for maintains injector install video.
look at kilipapias build and a few others they had good tips and pics.
 

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When I did mine, I pulled the cab. It only takes about an hour if you have access to a lift and then you can just sit on the tire and work on the motor as if it were on a stand. I tried a few different spring compressors and found the one that worked best for me was this one:Performance Tool Valve Spring Compressors W84002 - SummitRacing.com

Using a magnet for the keepers sounds like a great idea, seeing as how I almost lost a few down the oil drain holes in the head.
 

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When I did mine, I pulled the cab. It only takes about an hour if you have access to a lift and then you can just sit on the tire and work on the motor as if it were on a stand. I tried a few different spring compressors and found the one that worked best for me was this one:Performance Tool Valve Spring Compressors W84002 - SummitRacing.com

Using a magnet for the keepers sounds like a great idea, seeing as how I almost lost a few down the oil drain holes in the head.
magnet is an absolute must if you ask me. Pulling the cab off is alot more IMO but everyone has their ways of doing things. I lost a couple keepers down the oil valleys when i did my wifes lancer... I used a small round magnet shoved into a peice of long vaccum hose and fished the block for about 2 hours to find it LOL #### SUCKS
 

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Its worth it to see if anyone around you has a custom built tool for valve springs on these engines. I borrowed one and it made things super easy. Most time consuming part was having to find TDC with one person. Figured out on the last couple that if you compress the spring 3/4 to all of the way down, then SLOWLY rotate the engine you will hear the keepers pop loose when you get that cylinder to TDC. Not to mention then you simply put your magnet on the keepers, pull the spring and install the new one.
 

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When I did mine, I pulled the cab. It only takes about an hour if you have access to a lift and then you can just sit on the tire and work on the motor as if it were on a stand. I tried a few different spring compressors and found the one that worked best for me was this one:Performance Tool Valve Spring Compressors W84002 - SummitRacing.com

Using a magnet for the keepers sounds like a great idea, seeing as how I almost lost a few down the oil drain holes in the head.
so block the oil passages with something once drained eh?
 

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:doh: That would have taken a lot of the excitement out of the project.
 

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Its worth it to see if anyone around you has a custom built tool for valve springs on these engines. I borrowed one and it made things super easy. Most time consuming part was having to find TDC with one person. Figured out on the last couple that if you compress the spring 3/4 to all of the way down, then SLOWLY rotate the engine you will hear the keepers pop loose when you get that cylinder to TDC. Not to mention then you simply put your magnet on the keepers, pull the spring and install the new one.
Easiest thing I found doing it by myself was to pull the fan off. That way I could roll the motor with a breaker bar from the top side of the engine. Put a piece of wire down the injector hole and rotate till the piston is to the top. Super easy with no compression.

When the spring is compressed completely, just tap the valve stem with a rubber hammer lightly. The keepers will pop right up. Use a magnet to collect them.
 
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