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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, there is a little back story to the title of this post. Ive been a 7.3 man for a while. I have always loved Powerstrokes and I have always wanted a diesel excursion. A buddy on mine had one (2004 6.0) since Ive known him and everytime he would come to visit I would always complement him on how cool his ride was IMO. We both have large familys (maybe thats why we clicked so well) however, times have got hard on me with overtime being cut here at work. He owns his own business and has done well for himself. I got a phone call from him a couple of weeks ago and he said the exursion started to leak coolant bad and he parked it, I guess he was assuming the head gaskets blew. He was thinking about selling, it killed me having to tell him that I didnt have the money to make him a offer on it. A couple of days afterwards he called me up saying that he bought a new dually and said he had talked to his wife, they wanted to GIVE it to me. They knew I would fix it and it would help my family out. I didnt have the words, basially like a miracle in my life. A couple of weekends later, he loaded it on a trailer and delivered it to me. It started right up, a little white smoke out of the tailpipe for a minute and it would clear up. We drove it off the trailer and parked it.

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The next day I opened the hood, no coolant in the degas bottle. I wanted to see where the leaks were coming from so I topped it off with water and started it up. Sure enough, coolant was pouring from the back of the motor (while looking under it) I traced it back up to the valley. So coolant and some oil coming from the valley, I drove it around to my shed to start tearing it down.

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Im believing what is going on is the EGR cooler failed thus causing the small amount of white smoke at startup, fingers crossed for now. As far as the coolant coming from the valley, the aftermaket red EGR hose was dryrotted, fell apart and tore easily while removing it.


With this picture you can see the built up oil and gunk in the valley, is it possible that the turbo drain line could be causing this? It was extremely loose in the housing.

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Mind you I dont have very much money to invest in the parts right now so Im trying to save costs to delete the EGR cooler. I got it off and cleaned it up to weld the ends closed.

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So what I have coming in Tuesday will be a new oil cooler (dorman) with motorcraft gaskets.
Motorcraft:
intake gaskets
orings for the turbo drain
new lower degas hose with the Y (original was cracked and leaking)
New EGR cooler hose and oring

Im gonna tear the turbo down this weekend to clean it and inspect it. Also Im going to start the chore on cleaning all of the gummy carbon out of the intake. The other parts will get a good over all cleaning as well.

Hopefully sooner than later I will order the injector rebuild kit from Bitterroot, considering its time to address them. Long term plans would be to bullet proof the truck, but that will take me time. Im looking forward to suggestions and ideas from everyone.

Thanks
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track. I however very rarely work on 6.0 engines, so I won't be that much help.

To test the egr cooler, pull the exhaust ports off leaving the coolant lines hooked up. Put about 13 psi to the cooling system and watch or listen for leaks. That is how I find them on the equipment I work on. Some have 4 egr coolers and really suck to diagnose. Either way good luck and look forward to seeing your progress
 

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Following along. What a great story. FTE is great resource for 6.0 stuff as well. A lot of really knowledgeable guys over there.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I read that the dormans were crap, I have to go with a cheaper route for now to get me past the holidays. Do you recommend a oil cooler of a different brand around the same price point? And that is very generous about the delete, I really appreciate the offer. I live in central Louisiana. We have 9 kids and one on the way so money is extremely tight for the most part. That’s why I decided to weld up the cooler. And thanks for the tip on switching the coolant. I will start pricing it
 

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I think I got mine from xdp. I've talked to people that have cut them open and compared them. Said they wouldn't worry about dorman, but would get a good seal kit.

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Discussion Starter #9
201861
201862

Got the egr cooler welded up. 1/4” thick SS plate. Has anyone had any issues with a actual delete kit causing issues with the bellowed portion of the up pipes failing vs the original cooler being welded and placed back in? The video I watched says with the cooler reinstalled it helps brace the up pipe from vibrations that would cause cracking.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cleaning the intake manifold and going through the turbo. Unison ring and veins look good but the actual turbo has some pitting. I cleaned it up the best I could and slathered it up with anti seize. The veins and ring both move freely. Should I be prepping to invest in a turbo?
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sorry I don’t have the after pics, I was covered in anti seize and didn’t want to touch my phone
 

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Doesn't look that bad, imo. Unless bearings had excessive play, I wouldn't worry.

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Since you're looking to go the cheap route for now (totally understand that!), I have a couple tips for you from my own experience. First, I can't tell from the pics if you have an early '04 or late '04, so some advice can't be tailored. BTW, if your ICP sensor is in the passenger side head, you have a late '04. If it's in the HPOP cover behind the turbo, it's an early '04.

Regarding the oil cooler, why are you replacing it? I understand the EGR cooler generally goes out after the oil cooler plugs up, but it could be salvageable. I would look up reverse flushing and try pulsing some water backwards through that thing to see if you can get some good flow going. Could save you a little money now and a lot of money later. Just a thought.

All of that oil could be from the drain tube, so good call on new o-rings. Ideally I would go for the upgraded tube, but that can be done later. Another possibility is the oil temp and oil pressure sensors. For the longest time I couldn't figure out where all the oil was coming from, but it turned out my pressure sensor was bad, as in the oil was coming straight up through it and into the connector. So check those out as well. Best way is to unplug the connector and have someone start it up while you watch. Just be ready to tell them to shut it off quick! lol

You're ok for now, but keep an upgraded turbo oil supply line on your to do list. It's cheap, easy, and will keep your turbo alive.

In the intake elbow where the CAC tube attaches you may have a small plate....like a butterfly valve. There's no need for it, and some programming still has the darn thing moving. It was originally for emissions, but was discontinued when it was shown to do no good. No need to remove the shaft, just the plate and the two screws holding it on.

Don't forget a new degas cap. Also, no need to research coolants. Look for an ELC which is rated for EC1. There are a few out there, but to be honest I've found the easiest way is to just go to Walmart and grab some Rotella ELC off their shelf. However, they don't often carry the concentrate, which you will need after flushing the system. NAPA carries the concentrate through, so they can order it if they don't have any in stock.

Finally, to save you some hassle....while you have everything out, consider extending the harness for the IPR and the ICP if yours is on the HPOP cover. What I do is cut the harness, properly solder in some extension wire, seal it with shrink tube which has internal sealant on it, and then install a weatherproof connector. This all gets tucked into a spot I can reach once I pull the air filter to turbo tubing. Well, not quite. The connector for the IPR goes back there. If the truck has the ICP in back, I make that one accessible without having to pull anything. That way if there is something which might need to have the ICP connector pulled for diagnostic purposes, it can be accessed easily. Either way, when tearing things down (which will happen repeatedly with this engine no matter what you do) you can easily disconnect those and remove the wire harness without having to attempt contortionist's tricks to get your hand behind the turbo to unplug things. Plus, if the engine is hot you can take things off before that turbo cools down, saving some time.

Let us know if you have the early or late model and we can make sure to assist correctly since there are differences between the two. Good luck and keep us informed. So glad to hear your friend came through for you like this!!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Since you're looking to go the cheap route for now (totally understand that!), I have a couple tips for you from my own experience. First, I can't tell from the pics if you have an early '04 or late '04, so some advice can't be tailored. BTW, if your ICP sensor is in the passenger side head, you have a late '04. If it's in the HPOP cover behind the turbo, it's an early '04.

Regarding the oil cooler, why are you replacing it? I understand the EGR cooler generally goes out after the oil cooler plugs up, but it could be salvageable. I would look up reverse flushing and try pulsing some water backwards through that thing to see if you can get some good flow going. Could save you a little money now and a lot of money later. Just a thought.

All of that oil could be from the drain tube, so good call on new o-rings. Ideally I would go for the upgraded tube, but that can be done later. Another possibility is the oil temp and oil pressure sensors. For the longest time I couldn't figure out where all the oil was coming from, but it turned out my pressure sensor was bad, as in the oil was coming straight up through it and into the connector. So check those out as well. Best way is to unplug the connector and have someone start it up while you watch. Just be ready to tell them to shut it off quick! lol

You're ok for now, but keep an upgraded turbo oil supply line on your to do list. It's cheap, easy, and will keep your turbo alive.

In the intake elbow where the CAC tube attaches you may have a small plate....like a butterfly valve. There's no need for it, and some programming still has the darn thing moving. It was originally for emissions, but was discontinued when it was shown to do no good. No need to remove the shaft, just the plate and the two screws holding it on.

Don't forget a new degas cap. Also, no need to research coolants. Look for an ELC which is rated for EC1. There are a few out there, but to be honest I've found the easiest way is to just go to Walmart and grab some Rotella ELC off their shelf. However, they don't often carry the concentrate, which you will need after flushing the system. NAPA carries the concentrate through, so they can order it if they don't have any in stock.

Finally, to save you some hassle....while you have everything out, consider extending the harness for the IPR and the ICP if yours is on the HPOP cover. What I do is cut the harness, properly solder in some extension wire, seal it with shrink tube which has internal sealant on it, and then install a weatherproof connector. This all gets tucked into a spot I can reach once I pull the air filter to turbo tubing. Well, not quite. The connector for the IPR goes back there. If the truck has the ICP in back, I make that one accessible without having to pull anything. That way if there is something which might need to have the ICP connector pulled for diagnostic purposes, it can be accessed easily. Either way, when tearing things down (which will happen repeatedly with this engine no matter what you do) you can easily disconnect those and remove the wire harness without having to attempt contortionist's tricks to get your hand behind the turbo to unplug things. Plus, if the engine is hot you can take things off before that turbo cools down, saving some time.

Let us know if you have the early or late model and we can make sure to assist correctly since there are differences between the two. Good luck and keep us informed. So glad to hear your friend came through for you like this!!

As far as early or late 04, I could have sworn I saw the ICP on the passenger side and I believe when I removed the harness I only had to disconnect the IPR (wrapped in a foil sheath). The sticker said manufactured 05/04, I will check where the ICP is just to confirm though. As far as the oil cooler, I jumped the gun and ordered one right off of the bat, thinking it was the root cause of the EGR cooler failure also oil possibly coming from the oil cooler cover. (just me quick thinking). I will keep my eye on the oil sensors and take care of that valve body while I have it off of the intake. Some excellent tips you shared, especially about extending the harness. I appreciate it very much and I will follow up later this evening when I get home.
 

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Excursions are mix matched far as the early vs late.

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Discussion Starter #20
Started cleaning up the valley to prep things for the oil cooler replacement. The carbon buildup under the intake is terrible IMO. Should I be concerned?

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