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RustbeltJohnny
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So Im gonna make my first post about an issue i have been having for some time now. I did alot of mods myself, or had done by a shop to lesson the issue, yet it stuck around. Ill give a low down on what I have done to the old gal, as well as give some symptoms to the problem. Aaaan Awwaayyyy we Goo.

Main Point One: The mods and aftermarket parts.
shes a 96 2wd 7.3di, when I got it used from a gentleman who in my eyes was a good ol boy who took care of his stuff, it had maybe 268,000 on it and had gone through a few clutches during its time, which really was a result of the heim joint at the clutch pedal, so that got replaced and chucked the dual mass and went with a single mass and clutch from south bend, then it also got a new oil cooler, a set of baby swamps, hydra chip, forced air intake, Mishimoto RAD, Beans D66 Turbo, EBP Delete, 3inch Down-5inch Out, new mechanical fuel pump, and rebuilt fuel bowl with all the goodies to go with it, new tanks front an rear, CPS, IPR, ICP, and has either had t4, or a high tbn Amsoil w/ Archoil additive.

Main Point Two: THE STINKING SYMPTOM
Ever since I acquired the greasy bastard I noticed a small idle blip. Not one that seemed to concerning at first. It would dip maybe 50RPMs and back to idle, but only at a stop or idle. Then in 2015 as I was driving down the ALCAN highway through canada i stopped of for some fuel and when I went to crank it over I got a Crank/No Start. THIS WAS SO FRUSTRATING. It took me all but a day stuck in canada to get the sucker running, the reason you ask - fuel selection switch. So I flipped the switch from rear to front and she cranked right up and started. No I never did look to far into this being Im always on the run from state to state working, so I just kept driving, but again at idle this tiny blip of 50 or 70 RPM bounce would start up again. So as im making another run from alaska down I stopped in Tacoma, Wa. With my hard earned cash from the state of Alaska I stopped into a shop known as Northwest Custom Diesel. I had them drop in the swamps, turbo, and tune it. This I thought to myself has got to fix that idle issue. Well after a few months it returned and still does it sitting at a light or at idle. Now let me say it does not do it all the time, I find if i keep that turbo spooled up it hardly does it or doesnt do it at all, but if its a driving miss daisy kind of day I see if more often. Let me also say it will dip and then return OR sometimes it will rise and then return. It really is intermediate and can just leave me standing there staring into the engine bay and scratching my butt. If anyone can shed some light on what I could look for or maybe a route to diagnose it would be GREAT.

If you have questions just ask, Im sure i left out some hefty data iv collected over the years trying to figure this issue out but Im trying to not bore yall with my writing. Im good for just rambling on.
 

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102 Posts
Have you ever checked the main harness connectors to the valve cover harnesses?
 

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RustbeltJohnny
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Have you ever checked the main harness connectors to the valve cover harnesses?
Actually last week I after replacing the IPR, and ICP I noticed the harness is starting to get pretty bad (a black wire did pull from the harness on Rear PASS harness). I have never checked it per say with a voltage meter. When I saw this I did think to myself "hey its time for some harness love" but unfortunately I am not a individual with a fat wallet. I even thought well could I put the time in and produce a new harness myself (maybe build one) and found alot of naysayers on the forums, telling others just buy a used one basically. If this could be a major contributor I would most definitely make it the next chore on the list. But??? I also secretly in the back of my dome want to relate the issue to fuel...delivery, maybe weak pump, something.
 

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Im not sure that the harness is causing the problem...but bad harness connectors will 100% give you trouble. You can buy a pigtail connector to splice into the main harness on the outside, or you can buy new under valve cover harness or parts. The UVCH consists of a gasket with a pass thru connector, and two small harnesses that run two glowplugs and two injectors each. You have to figure out where the bad connection is and replace that part. Usually its the external main harness connector, the male plug from the truck to the UCVH connector. There are 4 of these on your truck, and the rear ones catch a lot of heat from the turbo.

Also, check your battery cable connections and test the batteries themselves.
 

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Project Shamu
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2,998 Posts
I have the same problem as you, I've been dealing with it ever since I put my new motor in about 18 months ago. For me, it only ever has an idle blip when hot. NEVER when cold. When its cold, it runs like a CHAMP. But hot, no dice. I've tried multiple fuel pumps, different tunes, completely stripped the entire harness and checked and triple checked. Replaced the IDM twice, replaced the IPR 3 times, replaced the ICP, replaced the CPS with a black, gray, and blue. Never fixed it. I have no idea either.

So bump to you, as I want to get this bastard nailed down too!
 

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How old are your batteries.

My truck would on a cold start idle up and down, like it was cycling something. It needed new batteries, so I replaced those, the glowplugs, new valve cover harnesses, and replaced the glow plug relay with the big stancore unit (after a replacement borg warner gpr lasted exactly one day). It idles steady now.
 

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Project Shamu
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2,998 Posts
How old are your batteries.

My truck would on a cold start idle up and down, like it was cycling something. It needed new batteries, so I replaced those, the glowplugs, new valve cover harnesses, and replaced the glow plug relay with the big stancore unit (after a replacement borg warner gpr lasted exactly one day). It idles steady now.
Batteries are now 5 months old, I thought that too, and replaced my 2 year old (still good) batteries. Replaced all the battery cables, including the cables from the alternator to the starter relay, and the wire from GPR to the starter relay. New Glow plugs 18 months ago.

I do want to try and replace my alternator because I think it's on its last leg. And I would like to install the Stancor GPR as well.
 

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Project Shamu
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2,998 Posts
So this is what I have come up with so far, now I also have a problem with this "blip" or stutter while moving. I've talked about it a lot in my build thread, but here's what I posted it there a few months ago:

It has to be injectors. Swamps posted this a while back (if you havent read it, it is a good read) 7.3L Injector Diagnostic, and in there it says:
Once/if the fuel side of the injector is damaged, the symptoms are usually much more consistent.
As in..IF a plunger and barrel assembly is damaged; it may be so severely galled, that any
fuel that is trying to be pushed out of the nozzle, simply escapes up/past the plunger, and is not
injected at all. Any time a truck has a ?dead miss??hot or cold, part throttle, or full throttle this
is almost certainly a problem with the fuel side of the injector.
A slightly damaged P&B
assembly can, occasionally cause a rough running when HOT?since the thinner/hotter diesel
fuel is thin enough to escape up past the scored/galled plunger & barrel assembly.
So I don't know if anybody remembers, but when I first installed the new motor, I could not for the life of me get it to start, it was firing, but on maybe 2 cylinders, not enough to actually get it going if you know what I mean. I cranked that thing over for 2 days trying to figure it out, it was getting fuel, it had ICP pressure, i couldn't figure it out. Well the truck had been sitting outside for almost 18 months. And I read up that after 6 months in IDEAL conditions, diesel can go bad. Well after 18 months outside, I'm sure it went bad, and even accumulated a bit of water. So for 2 days, I was cranking away and sending this bad diesel and water through the injectors. After i drained the tank, filters, and all the lines, and filled up with a fresh 5 gallons of diesel, she fired up on the FIRST rotation of the motor. Incredible. After that, my stutter immediately started happening.

So, I have come to the conclusion that I must've galled the plunger and barrel with water/lack of lubrication, and am having this stutter (or "dead miss" as Swamps calls it).

Anybody else think its not this?
So I'm calling it as damaged injectors I think. But I pray that it's not! Lol.
 

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RustbeltJohnny
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That's definitely not what I want to hear. I just installed those baby swamps. I was on the look out for a new harness and see where that lands me, because I believe I have covered all the major crap that may cause my issue.
At some point I thought it may be because I swapped the dual mass to a single mass flywheel. But the hell of I know.
 

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RustbeltJohnny
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have the same problem as you, I've been dealing with it ever since I put my new motor in about 18 months ago. For me, it only ever has an idle blip when hot. NEVER when cold. When its cold, it runs like a CHAMP. But hot, no dice. I've tried multiple fuel pumps, different tunes, completely stripped the entire harness and checked and triple checked. Replaced the IDM twice, replaced the IPR 3 times, replaced the ICP, replaced the CPS with a black, gray, and blue. Never fixed it. I have no idea either.

So bump to you, as I want to get this bastard nailed down too!

But I have always had this issue even before doing my swamps, cover harness, glow plugs, turbo, and chip, it wasn't AS noticeable, but definitely after above said was installed I noticed it a lot more. I know my harness looks like dog crap and my sensors were all stock with 307,000 miles on em. So I guess I'll keep checking in to see if anyone has other suggestions, because if it's the swamps then ********.

There are many other things I could do to it to maybe narrow it down, but can my wallet handle it. Probably not haha. My old lady hates me...
 

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You're chasing problem that's not there. 99% of one 7.3's have a slight murmur. The other 1% need a new cps.....

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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RustbeltJohnny
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Discussion Starter #12
You're chasing problem that's not there. 99% of one 7.3's have a slight murmur. The other 1% need a new cps.....

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
I have also herd this before. International even stated every 7.3 had its "own characteristics" but I also find that to be crap. I think international didn't want to deal with it because there were just to many of these out here doin the same thing. Imagine if a recall would have happened. Ford would have came down on international, long story short, it'd cost both companies an arm and a leg. Maybe that's my own conspiracy thought.

Well either way, if I keep chucking #### at the wall to see if it sticks, a 307,000mile truck will enjoy every thing I throw at it anyways.
 

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Well, to add to your list, add efuel and a hpop. Lol

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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RustbeltJohnny
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Discussion Starter #14
Well, to add to your list, add efuel and a hpop. Lol

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Like I said my old lady hates me. Yeah big oil and efuel is next. Then I'll also be shoving a Dana 55 under her. So my summer is cut out for me. I'll start a build thread at some point, I just nabbed up a donor, and slowly will be liquidating the parts I don't need.
 
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