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Discussion Starter #41
Got a few minutes to work on the truck today, decided to stuff the new doors seals in, must been doing something now takes some effort to get the doors to fully latch probably need to adjust the striker plates now, I ordered two of these door seal kits, they come each with 2 rolls of material, one roll is about perfect to do one door, just used a tin shears to cut to the correct length. I didn't get to in depth installing these, I removed the screws i could and removed the a pillar covers, the overhead liner pieces and it gave me enough freedom to pull back the rear pillar covers far enough to stuff the seal in and of course the kick floor board covers only half the screws came out but I was able to get enough room to stuff the seal in there too.

















Also I ordered new wiper seals for the windows, for some reason they only offered them for the front windows, luckily my rear window seals are in pretty good shape, im not sure why just the fronts were rotted and gone



 

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Discussion Starter #42
Well looks like i need to invest in some band clamps i thought id give these ubolt style a chance but my exhaust is just moving all over heck and i cant rattle them clamps any tighter, its actually shifted around and cut my speed sensor wiring yesterday, I have had to do this on every other system ive owned why did i expect this one to be any different
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Got a little more done this weekend got some new clamps and the exhaust buttoned up better and got my 45* turnouts on finally, idk what ricer pot head designs exhaust, why is it so hard to find exhausts with side exits thy all angle out, does really no one tow with a diesel anymore? Also added some mudflaps finally and looks like i need to get another set to put up inside the fender, still throwing stuff up over the back and right onto my tips they're impossible to keep clean....



also got my high pressure oil crossover installed so far no noticeable difference but I guess its one of those more unneeded mods. i know the under hood is a little hacked its on the to do list from previous owners mechanical work swapping the engine

 

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That firewall is filthy. Is that from the previous engine swap? Maybe check your uppies and make sure they are not leaking. It almost looks like oil sprayed on it. And yeah, those HP crossovers are not necessary. If you change or reseal the HPOP, take out the two check valves.....does the same thing but a little better. Keep an eye on that crossover line for leaks. My one time I did it, it never stopped oozing from the heads. I took it off and gave it away.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
That firewall is filthy. Is that from the previous engine swap? Maybe check your uppies and make sure they are not leaking. It almost looks like oil sprayed on it. And yeah, those HP crossovers are not necessary. If you change or reseal the HPOP, take out the two check valves.....does the same thing but a little better. Keep an eye on that crossover line for leaks. My one time I did it, it never stopped oozing from the heads. I took it off and gave it away.
Im still trying to decide whats going on there, i need to wash it all off now and start fresh its been greasy since day one for me, i did have a pretty significant fuel leak from the filter minder sensor which i eliminated, all that fuel blowing back orginally had me convinced my turbo seals were pushing oil since thats where it pooled and dripped off the Y boot but since that delete i have no longer noticed a drip from the turbo, truck is surprisingly pretty drip free for a 7.3, power steering pump leaks which sounds like a common issue, ive been putting it off as i read there is a better pump swap out there just haven't researched it much or sourced out parts for the conversion, saginaw pump i think is what i read about

https://www.offroadxtreme.com/engine-tech/other-tech/quit-whining-ford-power-steering-fix-and-more/
 

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Well looks like i need to invest in some band clamps i thought id give these ubolt style a chance but my exhaust is just moving all over heck and i cant rattle them clamps any tighter, its actually shifted around and cut my speed sensor wiring yesterday, I have had to do this on every other system ive owned why did i expect this one to be any different
A trick I learned is when you get the exhaust positioned where you want it, take a 1/8 or 3/16 drill bit and drill a hole in the overlapping joints. Fire a pop rivet in and your exhaust will stay put. If you ever have to change something, that same drill bit removed the rivet in less than 30 seconds. It's the only way I've ever gotten duals to match and actually stay that way. Even better if you use band clamps and go thru them as well.
 

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Im still trying to decide whats going on there, i need to wash it all off now and start fresh its been greasy since day one for me, i did have a pretty significant fuel leak from the filter minder sensor which i eliminated, all that fuel blowing back orginally had me convinced my turbo seals were pushing oil since thats where it pooled and dripped off the Y boot but since that delete i have no longer noticed a drip from the turbo, truck is surprisingly pretty drip free for a 7.3, power steering pump leaks which sounds like a common issue, ive been putting it off as i read there is a better pump swap out there just haven't researched it much or sourced out parts for the conversion, saginaw pump i think is what i read about



https://www.offroadxtreme.com/engine-tech/other-tech/quit-whining-ford-power-steering-fix-and-more/
The easiest thing to do, and what I've done in the past, is just take a can of brake cleaner and start spraying all that firewall. It's just metal heat shield material and it will clean right off and then you can sort of start from there and see if you do have any leaks. Nice work so far.

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Discussion Starter #48
Got my gauge pillar painted and installed today, ISSPRO EV2 gauges, probably add a column mount yet for HPOP or something not sure, I didnt hook anything up yet as I didnt have a fitting to tie in the boost sensor, not sure my plans yet with the tranny but it for sure needs and output seal if not rebuilt also didnt want to drain and fill just to do it again in a couple months, same with the trans coolers, egt i just didnt feel like doing same with fuel pressure but they are installed and programmed just need hooked up so thats half the battle



also got my EBPV switch installed and partially wired, i could not find the wire mentioned in the article for the high mount stop light but i do have the constant power hooked up so thats better then nothing just have to run a second wire when i get a chance





wish i could get more done on this thing as i have decided to quit my mechanic job, my last day is this coming friday which means ill be loosing access to alot of awesome tools but im sick of the BS at the shop and full time farming is the end goal for me anyway and i gotta start someday so we're going to see how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I did wonder, being as i deleted my filter life sensor and thats already 1/8th NPT if that is a suitable place to read fuel pressure from
 

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I did wonder, being as i deleted my filter life sensor and thats already 1/8th NPT if that is a suitable place to read fuel pressure from
I am pretty sure that should work...or the plug where the check valve is. Withe one should be fine.

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Discussion Starter #51
I am pretty sure that should work...or the plug where the check valve is. Withe one should be fine.

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I took a couple minutes and installed the sensor in that location, im only reading about 20psi :surprise: hopefully its not a good place to take a reading or i have issues, ive been prepairing an efuel setup but not quite ready yet
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Was bored tonight with this nice evening i took upon myself to investigate the conversion parts a little bit, sadly i think the "mood light" down the middle is burned up, have to look into some led strips to replace it or something like that, when removing the control panel i found a couple crimps had come loose on the connector and iw as optimistic this would fix the issues but sadly it did not, it did fix the map lights but the mood light still do not work

I chased the coax through the truck and found they're actually piggy backing the cb and am/fm antenna so glad i didnt hook my expensive cb up to it yet im afraid that might burn it up, always was kind of a hokey looking antenna at best, found the connection behind the glove box so i can tie back in there and hook the am/fm back the way it should be, though it hasnt been working to bad, probably try and see if i can get the pins out and re crimp them and dab a little solder on em so they don't come apart again, going to have to cut the opening bigger to to fit my big radio in there, also trying to figure out this little box on the control panel near as i can tell its suppose to control the back lighting for the panel, not sur eif its a resistor or what exactly



















 

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Discussion Starter #53
had a couple extra minutes at work this morning so i tackled the panel repair quick was super easy, paper clip could release the pins pulled em out opened up the crimp and recrimped the wire, dabbed some solder on for good measure and stuck the pins back in, might double check the crimps on the rest of em just to be safe, probably wont solder though as they seem like poor quality pins they didn't take the heat as well as i wouldve liked but they did lock back into place so should be good to go
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Was bored the other night and it was nice out decided to hook up to the camper and tow it back up towards the house and get it plugged in and charged up and kick the fan on in case it leaked some over the winter though it doesn't appear to have leaked at all



also finished up with my control panel it appears it is supposed to be backlit and my best guess is the little box is some sort of voltage knock down for what appears to be a circuit board doing the back lighting, i get 450k ohms going into it from the panel side and the panel has 75ohms not sure a good reading for these so who knows where the issue might be thought i struck cold on the back side though the power wires coming from the plug to the black box had high resistance so i popped them apart and measure individually, found the black wire was the cause of high resistance, pulled the pin on the connector to check for a bad crimp found whoever crimped it crimped the insulation not the wire....... i fiddle with it some to pull it apart and decided it wasn't worth damaging the pin if its crimped that good just melted some solder in there and solved the high resistance but sadly after plugging it into the truck still no back light :crying: so the chase continues, i have not verified voltage on the chassis side either so could be an issue there yet

 

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It's getting there. Keep after it. I know the OBS guys would LOVE this build on the FTE forum.

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Discussion Starter #57
Dove into finishing my gauges this afternoon decided to go ahead and do the trans coolers probably wasn't a bad idea either, fluid didn't look the most amazing ever, pretty decent clearance around everything, im not sure the proper fluid level for these things I thought i read 4qts? sure doesnt seem like much, the coolers add about 1qt each so i started with six and i could seen anything through the top so i added 3 more then i could see the fluid level creeping up the gears, filled everything through the top, also while doing this i discovered my reverse light switch was unplugged connector all corroded so looks like ill probably order a new pig tail and switch







drilled and tapped the intake y for boost and drivers side manifold for EGT pretty simple jobs, yes I know the engine bay still needs cleaned up waiting till i get everything done so i dont have to do it twice





and i switched the fuel pressure sender over to the test port location, now im reading 45psi at idle and 35 running at 65, so looks like i need a fuel pump or maybe a regulator





was suprised trans temp go to 180*F just driving home 15-20miles and its only 35*F outside today

also had to throw my driver mudflap on again yards been kinda soft with the thaw backed up in a rut and ripped it off
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Also while rolling around i discovered my water pump is dripping so add that to list, its actually somewhat of a relief i've been smelling coolant but not seeing anything, and i've added about a gallon since i bought the truck, i was worried bout head gaskets or injector cups, and ofcource my marvelous power steering leak and it does appear maybe the oil cooler is added to the mix, probably get those ordered too
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Well I played around with the regulator this morning, I was thinking it's just a spring it either needs a shim or stretched, well after getting on the interwebs I discovered this is already a thing, so I set out to do what is know the BB mod, of course now that I need them the little BB tube is no where to be found so I settled for some steel shot out of a shot gun shell, of course they're smaller so I cut the head off a screw that fit in the hole and in the spring and drop in one shot to start with, in total this gave me around an 1/8" of shim which is slightly larger then a BB but I was running down to the 35psi range I figured it needed some extra help

All back together it's now running just shy of 70psi at idle cruising 60-65, hard WOT pulls I can get it down to 50 but barely so I think we should be good to go until the efuel is ready, truck runs way better, sounds better get about 20psi out if it now
 

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Best thing for the transmission is to try to add five quarts by adding an extra quarts through the shift tower in the floor. That's what most of us do. Or you can park it on an incline leaning away from you and put an extra quart in that way through the fill hole.

Nice work on the fuel system. Low fuel pressure is bad for the injectors,....that's why I probably sounds so much better.

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