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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I did a trip from Albuquerque to Phoenix last week, and i figured this would do for testing the mods out.. So the front of the power stroke was lowerd 3 inches and I built an air dam onto the bumper close to was Dave done but 2.5 inches off the ground, its 3/8th convayor belt material with no subframe yet.. So I depart Albuquerque and set the cruise control at 70mph 2k rpm and sit back for the run with a full fuel load. I took I40 most of the way and then the GPS told me to go through the National forest straight through the deep Rocky Mountains.. I decide to keep the speed the same and the cruise control on, never once did it down shift going up on the grades and it was running cool, I turned the AC on once I came out of the mountains because it was getting God awful hot out.. I roll in to Phoenix with still half the rear tank and 500 miles on the odometer, I also forgot to mention that I had about 75-80 miles on the odometer before even leaving from driving around town.. I was honestly shocked at that point in time so I kept driving around Phoenix (in town) untill I needed to fill up.. I called it when the gauge dropped to 1/8th or so tank and 590miles, so I got fuel, I took on 27gals of diesel for $3.49.. 22 Flippn miles to the gallon in a 97 F-350 CC Dually, you have no idea how awsome this is, ive never got this type of miles before, so now Im amped about doing the side skirts once I lower the rear down.. So after thinking about this, if there were no mountain range do you think it was possible to get about 24mpg out of this old truck and or even more with using no cruise control? Other things that I done prior to the trip was I removed my bug shield and removed my fiberglass full length running boards so I can start planning for the sheet metal/conveyor belt skirts, also I still have a sun visor on the dually also..
 

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Cute and cuddly boys!
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973 Posts
Thats awesome MPG.
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
No way you paid $3.49 for #2...
It's still $4.59 here at the cheapest station...
:doh:
Believe it, in Phoenix it was cheap, hell its between $3.69-$3.89 here in Albuquerque
 

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Premium Member
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1,097 Posts
Outstanding XTremXJ, oustanding!

I'm sure the mountains cost you at least 2 MPG.

Keep your running boards. They make a good mounts for side skirts.

2.5" sounds A-OK. If I were doing it again, thats about what I would leave.

Have somebody drive you and your truck along the Interstate side-by-side. See it the conveyor belt air dam flutters. If not, you don't need a subframe. I put a little curvature and two small aluminum plates to stiffen the sides and mine, low as it is, doen't flutter.

Get greedy! Stick it to OPEC. You have more scope for improvement. Ever thought about a tonneau cover?
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I desided to remove the running boards after looking hard at them, torwards the rear on the dually and on the sides around the wheel wells the running boards looked as to be scooping air and pulling it under.. I was also getting tired of seeing cracks in the fiberglass from use and people jumping on them, so I decided it was time.. What I plan on doing once I lower the rear is attach angle iron to the rockers and attach sheet metal halfway to the ground for the rest of the length of the truck and then hang the rest to the ground with the conveyor belt material, of course that percentage may change once I see it lowerd.. For the front air dam I was able to veiw it by driving by a very clean mini van and seeing the reflextion, there was very limited movement because I curved it around the bumper, BTW mine is bolted to the back / bottom of the bumper, I will add a center brace to push the center out a little more to help split the air flow..

For now Im looking at tonneau cover, but Im looking at building a fast back shell similar to yours in the near future, but I will use my existing camper shell.. I have a high rise shell (bought it dirt cheap) and Im looking at cutting it and refiberglassing it and adding a large cargo door, basically like what the one guy did with the F150 prototype shell of yours, but I will have a few other tricks up my sleeve to add to it, like being able to still hook up a goose neck with out removing the shell and will then help make the front of the trailer aerodynamic also..
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I also forgot to mention I ran the Marine 2 stroke oil 1oz to 1gal mixture, been doing that mix for a year now
 

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blame the dog..
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1,945 Posts
I also forgot to mention I ran the Marine 2 stroke oil 1oz to 1gal mixture, been doing that mix for a year now
your marine oil mix is too rich.. you could halve that and still get the benefit (which is injector lubrication)..

I never thought about mounting side skirts to the running boards... I knew I was leaving them on for a reason (I pulled the shin knockers off my daughters truck but left the brackets in case I wanted to do something with them.. Good Idea!)
I bought a piece of UHMW plastic to do my air dam with; I'm waiting untill we get in the new house which I'll have a heated shop to tinker around with this stuff with..
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I will try the 1/2 oz on the next load of fuel then, and see what happens.. I still need to get around to lowering the rear, things just come up and it gets pushed to the following weekends, hopfully this weekend then I will start working on the side skirts
 

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Premium Member
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1,097 Posts
If you do side skirts give them about 2.5 or 3 inches clearance. On these long-wheelbase vehicles they drag more than I thought with my 1.5 inch clearance.
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Will do, like I said earlier, when I lower the rear I will take a measurment from the body to the ground, half will be sheet metal and the other half will be the convayor belt material and I will do the 2.5 inches of clearance like the front has already to acomodate for the wheel base.. Im sure I may change things after lowering once I get a visual, will have to wait, I will let everyone know with pics when I get it done.. Dave you have been a real insparation to me on this project..
 

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More Power Tim
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81 Posts
I guess I would never see milage figures anywhere close to that with my 06 6.0 f-350 cc lb 4x4 w/ auto trans, 3.73 gears and fx4 package. :eek: Part of the problem w/ driving like an old lady w/ this truck is that the moving parts in the turbo tend to get carboned up and don't work properly unless the truck is driven like it was stolen::tree::pullover:. I guess I'm screwed:doh:.
 

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More Power Tim
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81 Posts
Wait a minute, I just saw a thread that claimed that tuners did not help milage. Really, even if you are eliminating the EGR valve function with the use of the tuner as well as deleting Cat with aftermarket exaust? Why do I see all these claims of improved milage from these mods?
 

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An Ancient view on life
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314 Posts
I just found this test. Not long enough or fast enough in my opinion to really tell the facts. Plus filling at that low level of fuel use is subject to error.

http://www.snugtop.com/gas_savings_test.php

JonFord
 

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Premium Member
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1,097 Posts
Jon, I read your link and share your impressions.

The test was about 85% of a really good test. The short track/low speed tends to invalidate it. Who drives 45? The method of measuring fuel used seemed awfully imprecise to me. While it may be OK for us low-buck shadetree types, if you are going to all the trouble and expense of using a racetrack, why not use precision fuel metering. I know this equipment is out there. I laid my Mark 1 eyeballs on such equipment thirty-five years ago. It does take a really good mechanic about four hours to hook up. What you do is put a precision metered fuel tank in the bed and draw fuel only from it.

Essentially precision equipment eschews volumetric measurement and instead measures mass. You have a fairly generic tank suspended in a frame on straps with strain gages. As a load (weight of fuel) is applied, the straps elongate (they are made of spring steel) and the strain gage measures deflection. A ten gallon setup was accurate to 5 milligrams – back in 1971. I cannot believe this equipment has completely disappeared.

I am also rather surprised that some cap makers have not indulged in such testing. As I have shown a fastback cap would be a powerful MPG tool and one would think the cap makers would want to differentiate themselves from their competitors.

Back on the track thing. You know, there are scads of these 1.5 mile tri-ovals out there. They would be long enough that tire scrub would not be an issue. These tracks are not exactly used to destruction. A couple or three races a year…maybe. You wouldn’t think it would be impossible to sneak in a week of MPG testing at an unused track.
 

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An Ancient view on life
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314 Posts
I am taking my truck to Iowa for Turkey day and will be putting about 2300 milles on it. I have the small tube headers on now and there seems to be a big difference in the mileage around town and on the highway, but I want to confirm some numbers on a long trip. The only change has been to go to the small tube headers from DI.

PS I have the only pair of small tube ones for the OBS :D .

You can monitor the milelage at this web site. I am gettin ready to start entering information via this site. My Jetta is already posted there.

http://www.fuelly.com/add/fuel.gas?id=99758

JonFord
 

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You wouldn’t think it would be impossible to sneak in a week of MPG testing at an unused track.
Well, that's inventory, you know. Inventory of unused track time. You'd have to pay for it, and you'd have to pay insurance. I know my insurance in 2003 on a road course was $1800 a day just to cover litigation, no medical.
 

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Peon Extraordinaire
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1,880 Posts
Where is a good source to pick up some conveyor material? I am driving to Southern Indiana for T-Day and was thinking this would be an interesting way to spend a day while I am there...

Sam
 

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Funrunner99
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57 Posts
How much does lowering a truck help? This is my second F350 CC dually 2 WD, both have auto tranny's. My first one, a '90 with a 460 in it was dropped 3" front, 7" rear. I use them for work so I added bed top tool boxes down both sides and a lumber rack. Anyhow the truck only got about 8 mpg or so, really sucked. I'm anal (well that's what my wife calls it, lol) so I track the mileage with every fill up on both trucks so I am pretty accurate.

Anyhow I picked up a '97 7.3 PSD earlier this year and sold the '90 hoping to lower my fuel costs with the better mileage, was hoping for 16-17 mpg. I only get 12-13 mpg with it. Still saves me money most of the time compared to the '90 but not what I had hoped.

The '97 is a Regency conversion so I have nice fiberglass running boards down both sides with the flares around the wheel wells but it is still at stock height. It has the boxes and lumber rack on it off my '90. I have a bug/wind deflector on the front of the hood that does a GREAT job of keeping the bugs (and wind) off my windshield, but the do hit the front bar on my rack.

I am sure the truck has at least 4:10's, I turn just under 2500 rpm at 70 mph with the stock sized dually tires. Truck weighs 8K with my boxes, rack and tools most of the time.

I already have the kit to drop the rear 4" and the "lowered" shocks for all the way around, just need to pick up the front 3" drop I beams. I was planning to lower it anyhow, makes it easier to get stuff out of the boxes, but I really like your air dam idea. Might even do the side skirts if I can make them look good.

Any ideas how much the lowering and air dam/side skirts might help? The boxes are pretty much even with the top of the cab with 4' between them in the bed. Think it would be worth it to put some kind of removable cover between the boxes? Could make a fabric one that would taper down to the top of the tailgate at the back??? Also thinking about a overdrive down the road, but that would be a while. Any ideas or thoughts???

I attached some pics, well at least I think I am!lol

Thanks,
JS :postwhore2:
 

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