Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey,

Doing some seasonal service--

1) Since I changed the the 5-40 synth, strangely enough, the cold starts haven't been as happy. Was in sitting in the 55F heated shop and not started for a week-- had 2 back to back no starts yesterday, one hit where it did nothing and the other one cranked, then chugged for 1-2 sec, then quit. The oil press gauge never left zero-- on the 3rd try it lit, the fuel smoke flowed and the gauge came up slower/lower than it normally does (I have my gauge converted to real pressure/ sender in stock position). I'm thinking that the lpop is finally dying. Should I be getting immediate gauge movement or is a delay typical?

Once running, the ICP on the scan gauge seems very normal.

2) Also, the left bank has always been louder than the right-- before and after the new AC injs that are 6K miles old. Not an exhaust leak, its a lower frequency tapping-- maybe its just a looser fitting pushrod but I may need to investigate more. Any other thoughts? Since I fully sealed the shifter boot, this frequency of tapping is just more pronounced in the cab now.

3) Change out the fuel sending unit in the front tank-- bed off or bed on? Bed off seems to be the ticket and maybe the fuel filler mod should come at same time...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Does the oil gauge remain lower than before even after it starts? If so, then yeah, I'd say the lube pump is nearing retirement. Otherwise, maybe it's just cranking slower, meaning weak batteries or a tired starter.

Curious about your oil gauge mod. I've heard it's doable; is there a write-up / thread you followed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
Here's the writeup (no pics unfortunately) from the TDS archives:

Real Oil Pressure Gauge
Source:
Jimmy Abercrombie


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note:Since the original publication of this Tip, we've found that it doesn't apply to all models. It definitely works on 95-96 models and on some 97s. Check yours carefully before performing this procedure.
To make your oil pressure gauge show real pressure follow these steps: remove gauge cluster by prying out horizontal trim strips and removing the TX20 screws underneath, pull forward on trim panel and disconnect tank switch and warning lamp module. Remove the 4 TX20 screws at the corners of gauge unit and disconnect (by pinching on both ends) the two large connectors and also the small speedo. connector. Gauge has to be turned 90 degrees to undo connectors and to remove it, watch out so as to not scratch face of gauge set. Lay gauge unit on

a flat surface gauges down and locate the 20 ohm resistor (it's marked). Solder a jumper wire across the resistor using a pencil solder iron so as to not melt your circuit film. Re -install cluster and all trim.

Remove the top engine cover assy. by undoing the three 13mm cap nuts. The oil pressure switch is on the front aluminum housing under the removed cover with a single slide-on wire connector. Remove this switch. Fit an oil pressure sender (sender from a 1980 F150 with 400 cu. in. engine is correct) using two short 1/4 NPT nipples, one 1/4 NPT 90 elbow, and one 1/4 NPT female connector. Fit one nipple into the hole, screw on elbow, screw in the other nipple, and screw on the connector. Orient fitting so that it points at the driver's seat so as to allow clearance for sender to not interfere with fuel system sensor that is immediately behind hole where fittings are installed. Screw in sender and plug on wire. Use teflon tape or other pipe sealant

at all threads. Re-install your top cover. Oil pressure gauge seems to read 0-90 psi according to my testing. Strangely enough, when engine is hot and cruising the gauge reads where it did with the liar setup, but it does read higher cold and lower idling.
I had it on my 94 for awhile before I put in a regualr gauge. It was OK, but I wanted a little better range than what it ended up with. Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
A little update-- Its not the lube pump. Cool, I didn't want to pull it off anyway. Put a gauge on the reservoir and its 44psi at cold idle and 58 @ 1300, will go to 70+. There's plenty of lube oil pressure.

Although its done the no start deal before, it was not as bad as yesterday. I'm now back to leaning towards something electrical or maybe in a pissed off IPR/ICP circuit, ignition switch. May need to trace some wiring... Need a wiring diagram that goes from the ign sw through the engine systems.

On the left bank noise, cyls 1 & 3 definitely sound more 'clacky' in the valvetrain area. A bent pushrod perhaps? Lifter? Its not 'holy crap' loud, but identifiable. I may even pop the solenoids off the injs to see if there is an armature hitting something.

Nothing like playin with an old PSD to get the brain workin...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
i'd say pull the bed! make every thing easier to get too!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No, its not related to the GPs being lit or not-- Its a weird deal, it happens hot or cold. I can hit the key 50 times and it will light 49. If it doesn't light within a crank or 2, it wont. Then, I cycle the key and it lights as if nothing happened.

The strange thing is, it did it twice in a row yesterday plus the stumble. Oh well, ran it this afternoon and it was just fine.

The plan is for now we'll lift the bed, get the tank sender, some ujoints, carrier bearing and investigate why the trailer plug power wire isn't working...
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top