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Old But Sexy
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Discussion Starter #1
My rotors are stuck bad...and i dont know what to do..i whacked them and soaked them with pb blaster and i tried whacking in between the studs and ended up messing a stud up so Im really scewed and still cant get the rotor off...any ideas?

thanks
 

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OEM Moderator
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Use a wrecking bar with the curved end against the leaf spring to put some pressure on them while giving it a whack. Slide hammer with a J hook might also work. I might also take a pick and scratch out the rust you can between the hub and the drum. All of this is assuming they are rusted to the hub not that you have not backed of the adjustment to get them over the shoes.
 

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Are you talking about the rear? if so try taking all the adjustment out. The front should come right off if you have all the stuff inside the hub taken out.
 

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Old But Sexy
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Discussion Starter #5
no didnt know you had to take all that apart...so does anyone have good intructions on doing this??
 

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Old But Sexy
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Discussion Starter #6
im talkin about the front
 

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I know there is some speacial socket I use that my dad has but I am sure there is another way. Once I get home I can ask if some one does not have a reply before then.
 

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Old But Sexy
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Discussion Starter #9
anyone know the size? if there is a special size
 

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OEM Moderator
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Sorry I misread. On the front the rotors are held to hub because the studs are pressed through them from the backside. At least on my truck they are.
 

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yeah, its a 4x4 socket for 1 ton trucks. autozone is usually cheapest. got mine for $20.

it looks like this
http://www.outdoorpros.com/images/prod/1/Alltrade_648474.jpg

heres the steps i have by memory...

1. remove the torx to get the cap off the hub.
2. use needle nose, or flathead screwdriver or whatever you have to to get the lock ring out.
3. slide hub body out of hub and off the axle shaft. there may or may not be a snap ring on the end.
4. insert the special socket and you will feel it lock in the 4 notches. it is VERY tight so use a breaker bar.
5. remove that lock ring
6. remove the shim
7. remove the back ring with socket. dont worry it should be loose
8. remove the snap ring thats holding the shims on. (PITA sometimes)
9. pul lthe shims off ONE AT A TIME AND LAY THEM OUT IN ORDER
10. slide rotor off with ease.


when you go to put it together the first ring should be torqued to 50 ft lbs then backed off 90* to preload the bearing. then the spacer ring then the final lock ring should be torque to 150-165 ft lbs

if you run into any issues, post up and we can help you figure it out
 

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If you are swapping rotors you will need a press to get the studs out, a small one isnt much money at HF and by the time you replace studs that are damaged from the hammer or puller and time wasted it is way worth it. To re install youre old studs use a impact the lug nut and a large nut to set them. Go in the order you torque the wheels so you dont warp your new rotors.

Dont for get the seals on the inside hub, they maybe needed to replace too. On a side note when you pack you're bearings dont fill the entire hub with grease just cover the race and bearing liberally and do one side at a time so bearings go in the same spot, inside and out are different sizes.
 

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I think some people are totally lost here. I dont reacall any OBS that has a slide on rotor with seperate hub. That is on 99 and up.
 

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you dont need a press at all for your wheel stubds.

pop em out with a hammer, then pop them halfway back in with the hammer to line them up then put a lug nut on there and tighten it down so it draws the stud in all the way. thats how i did all 16 of of my front brake studs
 

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Old But Sexy
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Discussion Starter #19
well They had a 66.5mm but that seems too small...does anyone know the correct size?
 

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obs stroke addict
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It's not a hex socket, rather round with 4 notches in it. To remove studs I use an air chisel. Hub nuts are usually just hand tight once the lock ring is free. Hope this helps...
P.S. If you enlarge the picture of that socket, you will see it as being 2 1/4"

red
 
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