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Smart A$$
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone here purchased and installed an FM 1000 and purchased and installed the heater like they claim to offer for the FM 100?

So I have done as much as I can on this and was wondering if anybody has used the FM 1000 with a heater? Like they offer for the FM 100- I went to the manufacture's site and wasn't clear on it because when I went to order one from ANY website it was not an option.

Have not called any retailer yet because I am a vampire- I sleep during the day and work at night. Yes I am a giggalo...
 

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Smart A$$
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Discussion Starter #3
cool- this is going to help quite a bit!
Thanks!
 

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Smart A$$
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Discussion Starter #4
so Tom, would you go with a fm100 or a fm 1000? the fm 100 is rated for 80 gpm and the fm 1000 is rated for 180 gpm. i think i am going to run a fuelab pump with a two stage fm filter setup on the suction side as the fuel manager is rated up to 60 psi tops. with the injectors i need 60-70 psi and i should be at 70 psi with the fuelab. but now with the pump: the 40401 is rated for 75 GPH @ 45 PSI and the 41401 is rated for 105 GPH @ m45 PSI. i also think that in my climate that i should go with a heater on the fuel manager. and... to help out on the suction end of things can i run the fuel tank selector switch, a small lift pump of some sorts and then into the two stage fuel manager (30 micron and then a 5 micron) and then the fuelab 41401 or 40401 to the regulated return fuel bowl delete setup that i have on top of the motor?

i am sure that these questions have all been answered at one time or another and i have searched and searched and my brain is full but that is how i have come up with this recipe so far. what are your thoughts on this?

Prodigy Fuel Pumps
 

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Are you sure you need 70 psi? Most do best with 60-65. You can boost reference off you regulator ( Fuel Lab or Aero version)to have 45 psi base psi and ramp up to 60-65psi fuel by 20 psi boost or whatever boost level you need it at. This will take strain off your pump for the 90% of the time you are not at high boost if its a street driven setup and do not need that kind of psi or flow.

As a point of reference on the amount flow needed to support power : Charles system supports 650 hp using 300cc/300% injectors @ 60-65 GPM of flow.

I would go with the larger of the two fuel labs. They can not run full capacity but for short periods and must run at the 60% lower setting for constant duty. Wish they would be more clear on the web site about that and with the data on it.

I would recommend the larger of the two i.e. Fuel Manger 1000 180 gph flow. Also as another option if you have not already I suggest looking into the Dahl 150 as well. Read about it here Here's a link to purchase a Dahl 150-H with the heater and in cab switch from a quick search. I prefer it of the two personally.

I suspect your idea of the lift pump is exactly what you would have to do if you wanted to run that smaller 2 or 5 mic filter second stage in the fuel manager pre fuel lab pump. Otherwise doing that with only the fuel lab pump will burn it out and fast. The Dahl doesn't have that issue. It creates very little vacuum compared to most other suction side filters. Could not find data either way on the Fuel Manager. If you go with a lift pump make sure it has a flow rate that is greater than the max that your primary Fuel Lab pump can flow or it can burn out the Fuel Lab. If it meets that I would run one as it helps.

The issue is, its still highly recommended you run a filter between the fuel pump and your injectors. Without a filter post pump if the pump ever did go bad etc you would have nothing stopping any debris from smoking a few thousand dollars worth of injectors. Electric pumps do go bad so......

For the post fuel lab pump/ pressure side filter I would run a 1"-14 threaded base with either a Donaldson P551313 or P551311. They are 2mic absolute 100 gph and 3 mic absolute 160 gph specs respectively. These are the only ones I could find that are true 2 and 3 spec absolute of 99%+ Beta ratio 100 at those flow rates that fit the popular filter bases. There is a big dif between absolute and nominal rating, 98.5%+ and 50%-60% per past thru the filter respectively.

You can use a Napa 4770 base will match up with 1/2 npt threads or you could go with a Donaldson P562262 base which has 5/8 npt in and out. If you do not have an issue with the longer filters they will offer better flow and capacity (P551311 3 mic and your Fuel Manager 1000 30 mic would be well matched.

I would also either get the fuel tank sump kit from Truck Source Diesel ( Aggie) Or the ITP 5/8 pick up kit (ITPDiesel). Use -10an(5/8") line from the tank, thru the fuel lab pump up, to the post pump filter input. Then switch to -8an (1/2") out of that filter base up to the engine and RR ( -6an / 3/8") with the same for the return to tank line. Fuel lab pumps mandate min -10an / 5/8" line on the suction side.

If you can swing the lift pump I would suggest doing it especially if you go with pick up straw rather than sump setup on the tank. Everything will run easier and should last longer.

There is a few different ways you can go depending on if you want to run that lift pump or not:

Tank (sump or 5/8 pickup) > -10an hose > Fuel Manager 1000 (heater/30 mic) or Dahl 150 (heater/2 mic) > Lift pump or None > -10an hose > Fuel Lab pump > -10an hose > 2-3 mic filter and base > -8an hose > Y > 2x -6an hose > in-engine heads-out > 2x -6an hose > regulator > -6an hose > tank

Many options that was just one.

Boost (from the map hose) reference your regulator's fuel pressure 45psi-65psi min/max. Install a check valve after each filter will prevent drain back when changing and help with priming. Add a vacuum gauge to the Dahl or Fuel Manager. It will let you know when the filter needs changing or is plugged.
 

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I was also going to suggest maybe you look at the Dahl if you want to go large on the prepump filter. I believe that is the filter used in the Dieselsite systems. I still like my Cat filter post pump.
 

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Smart A$$
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Discussion Starter #7
wow, you both really know your sh!t! won't be able to look at those parts for a few days.

toms, what was your post pump filter?
 

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wow, you both really know your sh!t! won't be able to look at those parts for a few days.

toms, what was your post pump filter?
The one on the right with the 24470 head.
 

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Terminator Nation
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I managed to clog up the FM100 filter in my Bean's fuel system. The FM filter bases are a cartridge filter/lockring style for both the FM 100 and 1000, not spin-on.

For my next engine install, (B codes) I am installing the TSM tank sumps and the Stanadyne FM1000 filters pre and post with a FueLab. The FM 1000 filter bases are 1/2" NPT as are the TSM sumps. The disadvantage of the FM1000s is the cost. The FM 1000 filter base and cartridge filter (without heater) ran $275 each at my friendly local big truck diesel injection dealer. The TSM sumps were about $200 each and the FueLab came from ITP.

You can go to Stanadyne's website and they have several guides for the use of both the FM 100 and FM 1000 Fuel Manager filter setup series and all of the accessories available for them. Any Stanadyne dealer is able to get the full line of Fuel Manager items.
 

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Dave which filter did you clog up and what micron size was it?

I just remembered that Napa also carries the Stanadyne line or at least they used to show up in the online catalog.
 

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Terminator Nation
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It was the prepump filter and may have been more related to drying out than actual gunk plugging it. The prepump/water separator filter on the truck sprang a leak at the drain and I stuck in the old filter as an emergency roadside fix. The old filter stopped passing fuel shortly thereafter.

The last set of (FM 100) filters I got from Bean apparently were NAPA (?) white box replacements but not the Stanadyne brand. The original filters Bean supplied with the kit were Stanadyne.
 

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Tom,

That setup with those CAt fitlers looks so sharp. I honestly think its the CAT filters that do it. They also were the only filters in the fuel section that matched up to the Donaldson's in filtering efficiency. Actually all the mods I have seen you post are always very clean.
 

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I have a brand new Racor 490R Filter/seperator/heater in my garage that Ive never used.

Maybe we can make a deal if you're interested, and it'll work for ya..
 

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Tom,

That setup with those CAt fitlers looks so sharp. I honestly think its the CAT filters that do it. They also were the only filters in the fuel section that matched up to the Donaldson's in filtering efficiency. Actually all the mods I have seen you post are always very clean.
I came across those on some other diesel sites where they are a popular add on filter including the TDI and Dodge guys. They seemed like a excellent choice for post pump when I was looking into it. Good to know Donaldson has one that good too.
 

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Yep and a side bonus as we all known going with a Cat filter is good for 10% HP gain. :D

Most of the companies do not post up there filter's efficiency specs online. I usually have to go to some vendor site that has posted up the info for the filters they sell from the data they received from the manf. Makes finding the data a PITA. Not sure why they do not have it posted up given they have all the other data there. Dimensions, media type etc..
 

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Terminator Nation
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bringing an old thread back to life.

The literature lists fuel heaters for both the FM-100 and FM-1000, its electric. There is also a FM-100 accessory that blends the return fuel to heat up the fuel in the supply side. This accessory is also described as being able to return air back to the fuel tank, but you have to contact Stanadyne for details????? You can goggle Stanadyne Fuel Manager and the page has selections for the various literature available for the Fuel Manager series.

The Stanadyne fuel manager series filters are rated at 0.8psi drop at 45 gallons (170 L) per hour. The FM-100 is rated at 350 continuous horsepower and the FM-1000 is rated at 600 continuous horsepower per hour. The light duty trucks (us) are rated at peak horsepower with a much less fuel delivery demand than the Heavy Duty big trucks. The primary difference between the FM-100 and the FM-1000 is the FM-100 has 3/8" NPT fittings (and up to M16x1.5 o-ring) and the FM-1000 has 1/2 NPT fittings (and up to M22xx1.5 o-ring).

The manufacturer rates the FM-100 at 80gph and the FM-1000 at 180gph. The filters come in two different lengths (4" and 8") and with and without water seperater drains. The FM-100 is rated to 60psi although the Bean's setup runs at a higher psi OK and the FM-1000 is rated to 100psi.

Looking on the internet, I found a cheaper alternative to the expensive Stanadyne filter heads. Wix has their own Wix Fuel Manager filter heads available in the FM-100 style. Filters ranged from 5 microns to 150 microns using the same style filter base as the Stanadyne filters. The Wix numbers for the base/filter assemblies range from 24911 to 24916 depending on the micron rating. It was not clear if the filters had a water drain, but the filter numbers were listed so you could cross reference them to find out. I found them on Ebay, Amazon and Rock Auto as complete filter and base assemblies from about $43 to $53 plus shipping depending on micron rating.

Rock Auto has a customer 5% discount code you enter in the "How you found out about us" box on the order form. Currently, the code is 76639066323008, this changes every so often, when I get a new one, I'll post it

If you don't like Wix FM filters, the Stanadyne Fuel Manager series filters are available online at thedieselstore, among other places. I also found that Donaldson has Fuel Manager equivalents for the Stanadyne FMs.
 
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