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I’ve been having a recent issue where my 2005 6.0 with 102,000 miles has been stalling. This issue only occurs when the truck is at normal operating temperatures, my LiveWire TS+ shows my oil and coolant temperatures to be in normal operating range, less than 15° deltas, with a maximum oil temperature on a hot day at 215°. All of my other gauges show normal values and I have no issues with misfire, excessive fuel loss, hard starting, etc. The truck does have a constant IAT code as well as crank/cam codes after it stalls.

What will happen is after I get the truck to temperature, let’s say I just drove home from work, and I’m driving around town going from stoplight to stoplight, sitting at a drive-through, stuck in traffic, or basically anywhere where I’m at low speed for a prolonged period of time, the truck will eventually start to sputter like it’s out of fuel, and then it will shut off. When this happens, the battery light comes on, there’s no jolting when it finally dies, and I have to let it sit for approximately 30 minutes before I’m able to start it and drive it again normally. If I continue at low speeds like through a neighborhood, it will continue to die. But if I get less airflow across the radiator, the truck will eventually start to sputter, and then it will shut off. When this happens, the battery light comes on, there’s no jolting, it’s almost like the key got shut off. When it finally dies, I let it sit for approximately 30 minutes and I’ll be able to start it and drive it again normally. If I continue at low speeds, like through a neighborhood, it will continue to die. But if I get it out onto the highway, it will drive just fine. It has never died while on the highway, only when I am at low speeds, or letting it sit at idle for more than a stoplights worth of time. I can, however, let it idle in my driveway and it never dies. This issue only seems to present itself when - and I’m using this as a measure of relatability for an examples sake - there’s low air flow across the radiator when you try and drive.
Example: drove home from work (35 miles on the highway) with no issues, got into town, a few stoplights, slowly circling a parking lot, and it started sputtering/died. Let it sit 10 minutes, try to drive it through my neighborhood, died again. Barely got it home. As I’m writing this, I just drove 1.5 hours on the highway and it did great.

I do notice a little bit of white smoke when I first start it. I was wondering if anyone has had issues with the crank sensor that resulted in these issues. A few friends think that could be the cause. I’m already planning on doing a 100,000 mile service on the truck this weekend, which will involve a coolant flush, so I wonder if it’s worth my time to replace that crank sensor since I will have the coolant drained and the write ups I’ve read on this service job require training a bit of fluid.

I don’t have much access to diagnostic tools as I have just moved, and do not know anyone in the Minneapolis area who can help me diag. I can tell you that per my LiveWire, battery voltages are good, ICP is in normal range, FICM is good, low pressure oil looks fine on startup, new batteries/alternator, fuel filters and oil change in the last 3k miles.
Any advice would be appreciated as this is a huge pain in my ass and I hate not being able to go through the chic-fil-a drive through during this pandemic.

Thanks all!!
 

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Check the cam and crank sensor wiring harnesses first. Make sure you have fuel in the bowl with Kiel and that it fill fast.
It really sounds like a fuel issue, but if the harnesses are bad, they could be shorting out, although I don't see why that wouldn't happen at freeway speeds.
 

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Why not post the actual IAT code number, as well as the CKP and CMP code numbers? Different codes can mean different things - even for the same component.

I would also recommend posting numbers for the battery voltage, ICP, and IPR instead of just saying they are good. Maybe someone here can pick up on something by seeing actual numbers. Watching the idle rpms would be a good thing also.

Post:
ICP pressure KOEO
ICP volts KOEO

..... the truck will eventually start to sputter like it’s out of fuel, and then it will shut off. When this happens, the battery light comes on, there’s no jolting when it finally dies, and I have to let it sit for approximately 30 minutes before I’m able to start it and drive it again normally.
Post hot engine data:
ICP pressure when cranking
ICP volts when cranking
IPR % duty cycle when cranking
FICM MPower when cranking
FICM LPower when cranking
FICM VPower when cranking

Data when it won't start (or is hard to start) often times can be the best way to identify an issue.

IMO it is way too early to condemn an CKP or CMP. Those codes will happen just from the stall event.
 
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