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Discussion Starter #1
This summer I put in all new speakers and a sub along with all new wiring and a head unit. The speakers and sub are running off of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055IS5WM that amp. When I first turn on the truck it takes a minute or two for the sub to start working. On colder mornings I have noticed that even the speakers take a little while to start working.
This morning, it was about 50* out and it took probably 3-4 minutes for the speakers to start working. When they first started working, they sounded like complete sh!t for about 30 seconds, then they were fine. My sub never started working during the 20 minutes or so that I was driving to work.
Anyone have anything like this happen? Any remedies?
 

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Glow plugs for your speakers /AMP



cough :doh:



I have always had upgraded amps and speakers with subs in every vehicle I owned
I have never had your issue even at 20 degrees

I can'r see it being a wiring issue? so I am thinking the AMP is a freak ?

EDIT do a google for "my speakers don't work when it's cold" some interesting stuff most blame the speakers but at way lower temps than u have

what speakers do you run?
 

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6Leaker
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wow that is an odd one, I have never seen anything like that even during negative temps.

How does the rest of the electrical system in your truck handle the cold? Any dim lights or slow to work wipers during these cold periods? I doubt it but just curious, thinking your amp might have something wrong with it. Something like a micro crack in a solder joint on the power supply that expands as it heats up till you get a good connection and power out of the amp.
 

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Ive never heard of this happening, and Ive installed a ton of stuff for myself and other people. it shouldnt be anything to do with the wiring, or the cold weather. My guess is the amp could be going bad? Its not like your not using a name brand product though. Dumb question, but have you checked if your speaker wires are crossing? Thats one thing that comes to mind I guess. If you had another amp to hook up and see if thats the problem, it would be nice. At least you could find out if its the amp or something else
 

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Do you still have the previous head unit? I would try with it, some units are cold sensitive...But at 50 degrees...not supposed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok ... The sub was because the wires got knocked out of the connectors on the box. Problem solved. But it is still weird to me that it takes a bit for everything to come on right. Speakers are Polk dxi 5x7s in the back and DB 6.5s in the doors. Sub is the Polk MM 10". The previous head unit was the stock one. The speakers have always been hooked up to the amp.

Sawed Off, "Its not like your not using a name brand product though" are you saying that Boston Acoustics is a bad brand? I talked to a few different people at crutchfield about the speakers, sub, and amp. This was the amp they recommended to me.

JDC, rest of the truck works fine. I went up to Breckenridge last new years to snowboard for a couple days and the highest the temperature reached was like 14. It started an ran fine when it was -10 one morning and I didn't have it plugged in.

The HU is the Kenwood BT 901.
 

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ok ... The sub was because the wires got knocked out of the connectors on the box. Problem solved. But it is still weird to me that it takes a bit for everything to come on right. Speakers are Polk dxi 5x7s in the back and DB 6.5s in the doors. Sub is the Polk MM 10". The previous head unit was the stock one. The speakers have always been hooked up to the amp.

Sawed Off, "Its not like your not using a name brand product though" are you saying that Boston Acoustics is a bad brand? I talked to a few different people at crutchfield about the speakers, sub, and amp. This was the amp they recommended to me.

JDC, rest of the truck works fine. I went up to Breckenridge last new years to snowboard for a couple days and the highest the temperature reached was like 14. It started an ran fine when it was -10 one morning and I didn't have it plugged in.

The HU is the Kenwood BT 901.
I think you misunderstood what he said. He is saying you are not using a "no brand name" product, so that shouldn't be an issue. In other words, Boston Acoustics is a good brand name, so its odd to have a problem.

At least that is how I am reading it.

But to your problem, I would agree with Josh along the lines of some solder connection being cracked and when the amp reaches operating temp, the crack is "sealing" itself from the heat and then everything works fine.

50 degrees isn't even close to cold so that shouldn't have a bearing on any of your equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think you misunderstood what he said. He is saying you are not using a "no brand name" product, so that shouldn't be an issue. In other words, Boston Acoustics is a good brand name, so its odd to have a problem.

At least that is how I am reading it.

But to your problem, I would agree with Josh along the lines of some solder connection being cracked and when the amp reaches operating temp, the crack is "sealing" itself from the heat and then everything works fine.

50 degrees isn't even close to cold so that shouldn't have a bearing on any of your equipment.
Ok, I thought BA was a reputable brand. The solder thing makes sense.

I am from Houston, 50 degrees is cold. 85 degrees is cool, not hot.
 

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6Leaker
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Hopefully you can get it figured out, if you bought it through Crutchfield they might be able to help you warrenty wise, and also Boston might help you too just to get it checked out since they are both very reputable shops/brands. All I can think is its a fluke somewhere and just trying to rationalize the issue since its totally not a common problem. Wish you the best in getting it fixed.

I am from Houston, 50 degrees is cold. 85 degrees is cool, not hot.
Dang sure must be nice LOL, got to a high of 60 today with the sun out, everyone was in t-shirts
 

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Bingo guys, no boston accoustics is a very good brand. Ive never had an issue with their stuff. still have a 6.5 pro series component set and they scream. Yeah I was talking if it was a off brand product. Crutchfield wasn't steering you in the wrong direction. Just wanted to clear that up :)
 

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Start the truck up and look at the amp to see if its on while there is no sound. Then check power, ground, and remote inputs with a digital multimeter to make sure you have the correct voltage. If all those check out, then measure ac voltage on the rca's at the amp.

p.s. 83 Vettes are my favorite. Ive had alot of corvettes but never an 83. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Start the truck up and look at the amp to see if its on while there is no sound. Then check power, ground, and remote inputs with a digital multimeter to make sure you have the correct voltage. If all those check out, then measure ac voltage on the rca's at the amp.

p.s. 83 Vettes are my favorite. Ive had alot of corvettes but never an 83. :D
The light on the amp turns on as soon as the truck is started, then in a bit the speakers turn on, then a little later the sub starts working. The batteries are yellow tops and the wiring kit is 4 gauge. The ground wire is maybe 1 ft. long (amp is underneath rear seat on 97 ex cab and it is grounded to the bolt that holds down the front seat.

Over 10 years having this handle and I can count the people on my hands who get the joke. I made it when I was 10 and we had an 89 model vette.
 

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several things can be your prob but im going to guess the rca cables are going bad ive seen this before if amp powers on with the truck its prob your rca's or another thing could be if its drawing to mank amps at first it will do it ive had them shut off before cause of the amp draw being so great when you start it up watch your amp gage and see if it moves when they kick on
 

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Over 10 years having this handle and I can count the people on my hands who get the joke. I made it when I was 10 and we had an 89 model vette.
A little tid bit of useless info, there were actually 44 1983 corvette's built, but they were never sold to the public, 11 were retained by the Bowling Green plant for assembly process evaluations and other tests. The remaining 33 went to engineering for crash tests and other engineering appraisals. All but one of the 44 1983 cars were destroyed. Only serial number 23 was retained by the assembly plant as a relic of the past. It now resides at the National Corvette Museum.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
several things can be your prob but im going to guess the rca cables are going bad ive seen this before if amp powers on with the truck its prob your rca's or another thing could be if its drawing to mank amps at first it will do it ive had them shut off before cause of the amp draw being so great when you start it up watch your amp gage and see if it moves when they kick on
The RCA cables are new and are very high quality, so I think its probably the drawing too many amps thing. What amp gauge are you talking about? The one on the dash is a voltage gauge. I think I'm going to try using a capacitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A little tid bit of useless info, there were actually 44 1983 corvette's built, but they were never sold to the public, 11 were retained by the Bowling Green plant for assembly process evaluations and other tests. The remaining 33 went to engineering for crash tests and other engineering appraisals. All but one of the 44 1983 cars were destroyed. Only serial number 23 was retained by the assembly plant as a relic of the past. It now resides at the National Corvette Museum.
I hope this was directed at other people. I am full of tid bits of useless info. :blah:
 
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