[Ripsaw]

Where's the best place to buy for price on these clutches?

I was thinking I could get by with the 99-03 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 6 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque?

Or should I be looking at the 4 paddle semi style? They way I understand it, is with this clutch you reuse the flywheel but it is good for more horsepower?

I'd love less pedal effort and a smooth engaging clutch.

All I can see for the future for my truck is stage 2 sticks and turbo. Want to stay under the 400hp. (PMRS)

 

[Ripsaw]

Ahh crap!!! Can a mod please move this to the proper place?

 

[mattymx]

I have that one for my 96 PSD. Great clutch but you will need the CON OFE if you are going with 2's.

 

[Ripsaw]

Which one do you have? The semi 4 paddle style or the Con O?

 

[gregrob]

There are 3 versions.
CON O
CON OFE
CON FE

Con O is organic material, ofe is organic and feramic mixed, FE is only Feramic.

I would go with the FE, highest HP/TQ rating and drives great.

 

[Ripsaw]

What's with this clutch here.......http://www.southbendclutch.com/6sphdceramic.html

I'd really hate to spend the big money on the Con FE. With PMRS I'm not planning on building the snot out of my truck..even though I'd love too.

 

[Dieselfever]

Con-OFE is more driver friendly and is suppost to hold more than 400, so it should suit you fine

The Con-FE is grabby and can chatter on take off or when backing up, especially with a trailer

-Michael

 

[Deerezilla]

There are 3 versions.
CON O
CON OFE
CON FE

Con O is organic material, ofe is organic and feramic mixed, FE is only Feramic.

I would go with the FE, highest HP/TQ rating and drives great.

I have the fe550 in both of my truck Unlike auto lover the fe is a little grabby with a trailer on it backing up.

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

I would go with the FE, ..........drives great.

Thats funny thats exactly the oposite Peter at SB told me the otherday.

He said if i don't hook to a sled, run the OFE. If i did hook her up go with the DD 3250.

 

[gregrob]

Thats funny thats exactly the oposite Peter at SB told me the otherday.

He said if i don't hook to a sled, run the OFE. If i did hook her up go with the DD 3250.

Hmmm, I've talked to Peter too. I have a buddy with one in a Dodge, and one in a PSD and they seem fine to me.

I have heard that if the clutch isn't "used hard" for a while they can be grabby, but those I know haven't heard any problems.

You heard it from the source though, I would take his recommendation.

 

[Charles]

I have YET in my entire life to find a clutch that was too "Grabby"

You put in a clutch that might shudder every blue moon and tell me how you like the truck....

Now put in one that you can't EVER go wide open throttle because you slam the limiter when the smooth, easy going PIECE OF SH#T woln't hold the torque, and you go nowhere.

You tell me which way you want to error on that one.....

If a clutch doesn't shake the truck when you eaaaaaaaase on it.....you can BET that it ain't gonna be there when sh#t gets hot and heavy either. You'll be bangin the limiter while the ricer walks off and leaves you back there enjoying your silky smooth pos clutch, lol.

Run the meanest, ugliest, chatteryest, "Break-The-Bodymounts" type clutch that still runs stock plate load that you can get your hands on. The worst that will happen is you might spill your vagisil once or twice if you've never driven something with a real single disc clutch in it.



I can't STAND a worthless little "squishy" pos clutch. They feel like there's nothing there......because there isn't.


course, that's just my stinkin opinion.... lol

 

[HotRodTractor]

I drove the SB DD clutch in my truck everyday I drove it hard and a lot (100+ miles a day plush rush hour traffic). It pulled a 24ft gooseneck with 10 tons of hay on it, it did stop light to stop light with almost anything that even though about reving its motor.

After I put the built motor in the truck the clutch went right back in, and it survived my abuse up until recently.....

I agree with Charlie put a good "grabby" clutch in it and drive it like you stole it. You'll be happier in the end.

Jason

 

[Dieselfever]

All the Con-FEs I have delt with (as well as the Os and OFEs) have had less than stock pedal pressure, it even says on the SBC site that

Important
This clutch design will offer a very soft pedal. When truck is modified and under load the clutch pedal may stick to the floor.

Remedy
Remove the helper spring on the clutch pedal. By doing this, it will not only firm the clutch pedal up some, but resolve any clutch pedal inversion problems.

-Michael

 

[Charles]

Yeah, they run the "Luk" style pressure plate and flywheel IIRC. That is why they have low pedal effort.

The "grabby" aspect comes in the material choice, and in the friction surface area as well as the puck size if so equipped.

FWIW, mine is a 3 paddle with no more than 3 pucks per side for a total of 6 ceramic pucks.

It is pretty much the highest input torque capacity of a single disc I am aware of. So far on the dyno it has pulled 1041, and as we all know an interia dyno does not produce the same load as the vehicle weight on the street.

It will chatter a little if you abuse it. But basically, if a clutch is chattering with you and shaking all the time, you'd probably be best to learn how to drive and stop riding the clutch in the first place.

A solid clutch just woln't tolerate a bunch of bs like that. It'll throw your ass right out of the cab if you try that junk.

lol.