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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heres my situation: My truck was running fine, was almost home, I had been driving for about ten-fifteen minutes mostly downhill when it acted like it was running out of fuel. I didnt barely have time to get off the road.
Almost full tank of fuel, plenty of oil in the motor (have not checked the hpop), fuel in the filter canister and filter looks ok-changed it a few months back, truck turns over great, WTS light comes on and all.
One of the people who stopped to help (I live in the country) got the truck started for a few seconds with a rag soaked in gas held over the intake. Probably just as bad as starter fluid but at least I know the motor will run if it gets fuel.
So I am going to start checking things this evening (had truck towed to where I work). I have gathered that I need to check the oil level in the hpop, the filter, fuel injction control module, crank position sensor, and maybe the glow plugs.
One person who stopped suggested I bleed the system by cracking an injector line.
Any additional suggestions would be appreciated. I am not a mechanic and new to diesels. Had the exact same symptoms when my fuel gelled last winter. Used diesel 911 to thaw it out and ran additive the rest of the winter in it and didnt happen again.
By the way, its a 97 F350, 140some thousand miles on the motor. Just a big work truck that also takes me to and from work daily, and being a crew cab I can carry the whole family on occasion. I love it - but just hope its not going to be a pain.
Thanks for all yalls input.
 

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Check the UNVC harnesses, maybe they burnt up/shorted out and the IDM shut down to protect itself.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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Squeezing out Torque...
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After shutting it off and being off a bit, did it improve or is it still the same now?

Check codes and have someone look at the live data. Could be fuel, electrical or high pressure oil related. All three will cause a fuel feed problem on a PSD. Too many factors to just throw out a blind answer as a catch-all.

HPOP oil level is a good idea. Cracking a line to bleed it is for other diesels and unrelated to OBS PSD's. They self bleed on their returns, but that is not saying that it might not be getting air from crack or leaks the feed lines. (possible but not as common as other things.) Glow plugs will cause a problem starting but are unrelated once it starts and is warmed up.

Diesel motors need air, fuel and compression to run. The extremely high compression causes the combustion of the diesel. To shut off a diesel, you remove the fuel. DIT PSD's use and electrical charge to open a valve in the injectors, that open high pressure oil to move a piston that pumps fuel through the injector. Add into that, the PCM uses sensors to control the timing and volume of the injection, which then goes through the IDM, which controls the voltage, frequency/signal of that injector.. Now you should be able to see basic-to-complex, how they are all tied together and related to each other.

I would check physical fuel pressure, ICP pressure, ICP and IPR duty cycles. Then cylinder misfires and pending codes.
 

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Terminator Nation
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Check fuse 22 in particular since its the power for the IDM, PCM and fuel bowl heater. Sometimes the heater shorts to ground, blows the fuse and kills power to the electronics. Just disconnect the fuel bowl heater plug on the side of the fuel filter cannister if this is your problem.
 

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Squeezing out Torque...
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Check fuse 22 in particular since its the power for the IDM, PCM and fuel bowl heater. Sometimes the heater shorts to ground, blows the fuse and kills power to the electronics. Just disconnect the fuel bowl heater plug on the side of the fuel filter cannister if this is your problem.
Dave--
I'm bewildered and curious. The OP said it ran bad. Following common sense... If you blow fuse #22, it does not run like sh_t... because it would not run at all with that fuse blown... right?

If we look at statistics, the most common with a customer description of an intermittent symptom of "runs good," then goes south, is- hpop, icp and/or ipr related... but so many other things to rule out, such as a decent fuel supply (without air), and a good electrical system (besides the other sensors). Other problems just aren't intermittent. Those others are broke or not.

Then again, he didn't say it got better nor that he had to get pulled/towed home either. More info needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry guys havent been able to get on here (partly due to juggling a way to and from work at the moment) to update.
Yes I ended up getting it towed to where I work. There are tools there and occasionally helpful people that know more than myself...
It really didnt run bad before dying, I was pulling a hill running maybe 40 mph in 4th so I was probably pushing it a little but not hard. She just started losing power just like I was running out of fuel. I downshifted once then flipped to my second tank but nothing changed and I rolled mostly off the road on the shoulder.
I bought a techbook and rented a fuel pressure test kit. So far I have drained my fuel filter canister (is this also the water seperator? I think it is and ppl ask me if I have drained it, not sure if its the same or somewhere else) and looked at the filter. It looks ok, but there is a build up of sludge down in the bottom of the canister - not sure how to get that out. Anyway, I know the fuel pump is working because the canister has refilled with fuel when I checked it again.
I hooked up the test gauge to the valve by the filter canister and cranked it some to see what kind of pressure I was getting. By the way, when I crank it I do get some smoke and it tries to catch occasionally. I am not using any starter fluid - have read some BAD stuff about it in diesels. So the first few times I got no reading on the gauge, I took it off and reattached it a couple times thinking maybe it was loose or something and then I got a reading of 10 psi - really low I think its supposed to be 60?
Fuel pump? PCM?
I did some more reading and am not sure I can even change the pump on this truck myself - may just end up taking it to a shop... espec if they can get to it quick. One thing I am not sure of still (I hate that Chiltons tech book!) is whether or not my truck has more than one fuel pump...
Appreciate all of your alls input - please keep it coming!!:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One more thing I thought of, here lately when I walk past my truck or go to it I have been smelling diesel, and even saw a little puddle under it one day last week. I looked around under the hood but didnt have time to figure it out.
Is it possible I just have a really bad leak? I feel like an idiot for not looking in depth last week but been working 10 plus hours /day at work and then some on the side and always stuff to get done. I got to get serious about my truck and do some preventative maint on it...
 

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whistle tits
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Ill tell you this much, I had the same scenario happen to me, almost to the t. Downshifted from 4th to 3rd and it bogged down and died. Ended up replacing the fuel pump. Yes that is where you need to check fuel pressure. Do go ahead and check all fuses also
 

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Fuel probably came from the weep hole in the pump.
I was having a bad luck streak, so let's just say I'm pretty quick at swamping pumps. Lol

Some tips:
You definitely don't need to remove the turbo.
You should get the rubber fuel line sections. (Or make your own. I made my own and didn't like it, so I bought the ford ones)
Remove the fuel bowl, makes a great time to clean it out. Also clean the FPR screen.
Lift the pump straight up.
I removed the rear lift block to gain room to the banjo bolt.
With the fuel lines, was easiest for me to clamp them onto the fuel bowl, then sorta tilt/wiggle it in and the lines on at the same time.

That's most of what I remember, for now.
 

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Yes, only one fuel pump. Chilton's manual is an expensive set of shop towels. Get the FSM, including the diesel supplement.

After removing the bolts for the fuel pump, and the lines, turn the engine until the lobe on the camshaft pushes the pump up. This will both help to remove the pump, and will help prevent the rod from falling into the engine.

Yes, that's the correct connection for a fuel pressure gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, only one fuel pump. Chilton's manual is an expensive set of shop towels. Get the FSM, including the diesel supplement.

After removing the bolts for the fuel pump, and the lines, turn the engine until the lobe on the camshaft pushes the pump up. This will both help to remove the pump, and will help prevent the rod from falling into the engine.

Yes, that's the correct connection for a fuel pressure gauge.
lol about Chiltons. I like them usually because they have diagrams and tell you things like what size bolt, etc but this one is a joke. What is FSM -sorry to sound ignorant, I am!

Ok so I guess I am looking a changing a fuel pump tomorrow after work. Should I just get one from a parts store or would I get much better of a deal/quality if I order it?

Another thing, I am wanting to start doing some mods and improvements to get better power/fuel mileage. Should I go stock with the fuel pump or replace it with something else?

THanks again - and I will message you Bgold as soon as I get under the hood and get an idea of what I am unsure of (everything!).
 

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FSM = Factory Service Manual - actually, Manuals. Separate volumes for Powertrain/Drivetrain, Body/Chassis, Diesel Engine Supplement, and the EVTM - Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual.

E-fuel is def. the natural "upgrade". (That's short for "electric-fuel", an electric fuel pump and some plumbing changes, either third party or using parts from a SuperDuty truck.) Only problem is, it's a bit of a project. If you can afford to have the truck down for a while, e-fuel is the way to go. If you need it up and running, a replacement mechanical pump will get you on the road faster.
 

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^ What he said.
If you can do the e-fuel, by all means do it.
Wish I would've had the time to do it last time.
So far the autozone carter pump is holding up good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I will look into the e fuel. Someone told me to expect to spend around $200 on a pump, if E fuel isnt any more I guess I should go that way. Do you have to add relays or anything?
I was looking around and someone said that there are kits for converting to a inline pump... what do you put in place of the old fuel pump?

Definantly going to resarch it, sounds like the best way to go...
 

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Just look into DIY e-fuel.
A kit is very well made, but will cost you a lot more.
You use a metal cup plug. Like a freeze plug but smaller.
Mark fuga here has a good fuel block. (The one I'll end up getting)
 
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