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For the past few months, my truck would seem to puke when I got on it hard, or was towing my trailer. I was sure it was a clogged oil cooler, or a blown HG. I hooked up my AE and datalogged EOT and ECT on a 6 hour drive. Normal highway 80 MPH temp was 190ish on both. When I would stop however or when I would get on it hard it would get in the 200-215 range on both pretty quick. Both ECT and EOT were within 2 degrees most of the time. OK, so no oil cooler problem.

Ran codes, and got a fan code........HMMMMMMM. Took a look at the fan, and it was spinning just fine. Found out which direction it was spinning so I wouldn't screw something up, like my flesh, and stuck a soft piece of rubber down there. The fan stopped turning within a second or so. Let it go, and it started spinning again. Reached down with my hand, (like smacking the face of the fan blade when you were a kid) and it stopped with the engine running. Well I'll be damned, that's not supposed to happen. I ordered a fan clutch........Damn are they pricey.... and will be swapping that out tomorrow. If it can't get air, it can't cool. I'll report back.
 

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Hood Rich
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2,873 Posts
Whys that not supposed to happen? The fans dont engage fully until about 210 I believe... and when they kick on, you know it. You'd also be reading super hot with fan not working... I would run the engine well past 200 degrees and see if it engages. And every bad fan clutch I've ran into, the truck/van was a no start also... if the clutch shorts out, it takes out the range finder in the trans, therefore it doesnt know what gear its in so the engine doesnt even crank... Definately get back to us
 

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it's an 02 05 08
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930 Posts
if it is puking when under a load and the coolant bottle isnt over filled id say you got a head gasket leaking,the fan is an easy swap but doubt thats the issue ive never seen one fail on a leaker
 

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Hood Rich
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I just took down a E350 with same issue, you would get on it, res would puke coolant.... EGR cooler was dry so was intake... EGR cooler past vaccuum and pressure tests... sent the heads to the shop, waiting word... has to be a hair line fracture or glow plug sleeve....

and honestly, not always does the oil cooler have to be clogged for the EGR cooler to blow... EGR cooler could just blow due to excessive backpressure(stuck VVT) or extended pulling on grades(EGT's)... I would pull the EGR valve and let her run
 

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it's an 02 05 08
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930 Posts
or as shops around here like to say its got a bad cap lol
 

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Hood Rich
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or as shops around here like to say its got a bad cap lol
very possible too... Just had a truck today with bad degfas bottle cap.... I make a t fitting with rubber hose and barbed fitting, splice it in with stock line to degas and put shop air to it, regulated, pops early....

Gotta keep it simple sometimes, but Ive seen more worse cases than just an easy fix with the 6.0
 

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Ctc when a fan goes bad and takes out the range sensor, can you get the truck to crank by just unplugging the fan or do you have to replace the sensor to even get it too even get it to crank over? Ive got a 04 that ive been working on that I cant get too crank and this is what I have been leaning towards but havent replaced the range sensor. Sorry for the derail pilot.
 

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Hood Rich
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yea, unplug the fan, it will crank if it is indeed shorted... They put them on the same circuit
 

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Ok I had tried just unplugging the fan. Anything else that would cause a no crank?
 

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Hood Rich
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engine locked up? spin it either way? Any clicking down by the relay box or starter itself? good batteries? the range switch itself will cause a no start... move the shifter to every gear, N first... IDS will tell you if the range finder is working... I back probed it before I found out IDS could do that, but I dont remember the wires....
 

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mine was doing the same thing puking under load and high temps....also had a periodic fan code....it was definitely my head gaskets...replaced and studded no problem now what so ever.....my fan doesn't come on untill 215ish and you can tell its on
 
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