I didn’t read this whole thing but if this is a gas truck I would keep the fuel pumps in the tanks. If it was a diesel use the gas fuel pumps. I did a gas to diesel conversion on a 97 and always regretted using the diesel tank selector valve instead of just keeping the duel electric fuel pumps.
So it begins... Obs 24 valve swap
61 - 74 of 74 Posts
I didn't think that gas fuel pumps would work... but my truck was diesel to begin with...
I'm going to be using a fass system with 1/2'' lines and a sump or draw straw... haven't decided yet. And I'm actually leaning towards a manual ball valve to switch tanks... but at this point idk...
I was considering the 38 gallon rear tank upgrade but I'd like to carry a spare tire and I've read that u can't do it with the 38g tank...
I've got lots to do before I start deciding on fueling requirements.
So this weekend figured out why the transmission was leaning... loosening up everything and wiggling the engine and transmission assembly seems to have fixed it... its weird because everything looked ok beforehand but the tilted transmission... oh well... moving on.
Ended up with 5''x2''x.25 tube for the crossmember.
At 1/4'' thick its probably overkill... and a pita to cut if you don't have the equipment. I used a combination of my chopsaw and 4 inch grinder with cutting wheel... long painful process where I cought on fire twice and some rags on the bench as well... lol... but its done.
Instead of a drop crossmember its going to be a single piece. This saves me time and catching fire again! It's to tight for the stock dodge transmission mount but it'll be fine with some isolators for mounts. Trying to find what dcs uses for there engine mounts... those isolators would be perfect. I have am email out to them. But if anyone knows what those isolators are or s part number let me know.
Ended up with 5''x2''x.25 tube for the crossmember.
At 1/4'' thick its probably overkill... and a pita to cut if you don't have the equipment. I used a combination of my chopsaw and 4 inch grinder with cutting wheel... long painful process where I cought on fire twice and some rags on the bench as well... lol... but its done.
Instead of a drop crossmember its going to be a single piece. This saves me time and catching fire again! It's to tight for the stock dodge transmission mount but it'll be fine with some isolators for mounts. Trying to find what dcs uses for there engine mounts... those isolators would be perfect. I have am email out to them. But if anyone knows what those isolators are or s part number let me know.
Ok... dcs wanted 45usd a side for there mounts... that puts me close to 200 cad which is too much... so found these:
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.4102
A tiny bit softer than I'd like but at less than half the price I think they'll be fine.
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Fans came in!
Looks really good... there about 1/4'' to wide... there isn't alot of room between radiator and intercooler piping...but some trimming and some work with a heat gun and I think they'll be awesome!
This will be the best efan solution that I've seen for the obs ford trucks... it is a big draw at 65 amps full on but an unheard of 7000cfm... hoping this all works out.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.4102
A tiny bit softer than I'd like but at less than half the price I think they'll be fine.
Fans came in!
Looks really good... there about 1/4'' to wide... there isn't alot of room between radiator and intercooler piping...but some trimming and some work with a heat gun and I think they'll be awesome!
This will be the best efan solution that I've seen for the obs ford trucks... it is a big draw at 65 amps full on but an unheard of 7000cfm... hoping this all works out.
Ok... one last bit of information for those who are interested but don't understand the benefits of a pwm controller and the low impedance Ford contour fan assembly's.
I asked Brian about the characteristics of his controller and how it relates to my choice of an alternator... I've been looking at a mechman 240a alternator with 150amp idle output.. and I asked if I needed to be concerned...
His response back:
I wouldn't even even worry about it, those fans are probably going to
draw less than 5A at idle. As the cfm requirement goes down, the
efficiency of the fans goes up:
power cfm noise
100% 100% 0db
50% 79.4% -5db
25% 63.0% -10db
12.5% 50.0% -15db
6.25% 39.7% -20db
3.125% 31.5% -25db
So at 2142 cfm total, which is probably around what you'll need at an
idle, the fans will draw about 2A
On the curve, lets say you set it at 180. At 176, the fan will start at
1%, the power will progressively increase to 100% by 183
Very happy to hear that from him...
His comment of 2142cfm at 2 amps was I believe for one fan assembly which adds up to his initial comment that at idle I'll probably be drawing less than 5amps. From the threads I've read on diesel truck efans I think he's spot on on the cfm requirements at idle
The contour fan assembly's are one of the more efficient fans available that are commonly used in efan conversions and much more efficient than most aftermarket fans...
I asked Brian about the characteristics of his controller and how it relates to my choice of an alternator... I've been looking at a mechman 240a alternator with 150amp idle output.. and I asked if I needed to be concerned...
His response back:
I wouldn't even even worry about it, those fans are probably going to
draw less than 5A at idle. As the cfm requirement goes down, the
efficiency of the fans goes up:
power cfm noise
100% 100% 0db
50% 79.4% -5db
25% 63.0% -10db
12.5% 50.0% -15db
6.25% 39.7% -20db
3.125% 31.5% -25db
So at 2142 cfm total, which is probably around what you'll need at an
idle, the fans will draw about 2A
On the curve, lets say you set it at 180. At 176, the fan will start at
1%, the power will progressively increase to 100% by 183
Very happy to hear that from him...
His comment of 2142cfm at 2 amps was I believe for one fan assembly which adds up to his initial comment that at idle I'll probably be drawing less than 5amps. From the threads I've read on diesel truck efans I think he's spot on on the cfm requirements at idle
The contour fan assembly's are one of the more efficient fans available that are commonly used in efan conversions and much more efficient than most aftermarket fans...
Joined
·
604 Posts
What about a mean green? They're supposed to be awesome. Next time my alt goes out on me I'm going to bite the bullet and get a mean green
I've heard of them... I'll look into it thanks...
So ive almost finished the crossmember... man I wish I had a drill press... but dam my Milwaukee m18 drill is the best drill in the world! Lol...
18 1/2 inch holes and four 1 1/2 inch holes with a stepped drill bit through 1/4 steel... glad that's over! Lol...
I have a new appreciation for people who can fabricate steel... but with me and my princess auto 180 flux core welder I think I've got a crossmember that is strong enough... hope its strong enough lol. Just not pretty like everyone else's Haha...
Some grinding and a coat of por15 will help... a little
I've got a bit more work and welding to do on it... cut some (for lack of a better word) flaps on the top and raise it 5/16th to match the transmission angle so my mounts sit even. I'll post pictures when done
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18 1/2 inch holes and four 1 1/2 inch holes with a stepped drill bit through 1/4 steel... glad that's over! Lol...
I have a new appreciation for people who can fabricate steel... but with me and my princess auto 180 flux core welder I think I've got a crossmember that is strong enough... hope its strong enough lol. Just not pretty like everyone else's Haha...
Some grinding and a coat of por15 will help... a little
I've got a bit more work and welding to do on it... cut some (for lack of a better word) flaps on the top and raise it 5/16th to match the transmission angle so my mounts sit even. I'll post pictures when done
Attachments
Joined
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604 Posts
And definitely some lock washers!
Haha yes lock washers
Ok so I'm finally getting to the point of finishing the crossmember.... and finishing the transmission mounts...
So I've been learning myself about driveline angles and stuff... hurts my tiny brain but I think I got it now.
So looks like my rear pinion is at 5 degrees pointing up to the front. My driveshaft is 14 down to the back. And my transmission is 3 degrees down to the back...
So looks like my rear pinion is way out... might explain why I wore out the yolk on the driveshaft that I replaced a couple years ago lol
So to match the transmission angle and take axle wrap into consideration I need to shim my rear diff somthing like 4 degrees less than the 5 degrees up it is now...
Driveshaft looks like its going to be at 14 degrees... 14-3 gives me an operating angle of 11 degrees for each joint... well over the 3 degrees recommended... but not unheard of...
From what I've been reading 15 degrees is pretty much max for a daily driver... but I can't find allot of information. If I go with 1350 or 1410 joints think I should be ok... but gain I haven't been able to really get any information on a joint angles other than max angles.
1350 ujoint is 20° max
1410 ujoint is 35-37° max
The driveline shop I use are a smart bunch of guys... hopefully they'll know what to do lol.
Anyone have any idea how bad 11 degree ujoint angle is?
So I've been learning myself about driveline angles and stuff... hurts my tiny brain but I think I got it now.
So looks like my rear pinion is at 5 degrees pointing up to the front. My driveshaft is 14 down to the back. And my transmission is 3 degrees down to the back...
So looks like my rear pinion is way out... might explain why I wore out the yolk on the driveshaft that I replaced a couple years ago lol
So to match the transmission angle and take axle wrap into consideration I need to shim my rear diff somthing like 4 degrees less than the 5 degrees up it is now...
Driveshaft looks like its going to be at 14 degrees... 14-3 gives me an operating angle of 11 degrees for each joint... well over the 3 degrees recommended... but not unheard of...
From what I've been reading 15 degrees is pretty much max for a daily driver... but I can't find allot of information. If I go with 1350 or 1410 joints think I should be ok... but gain I haven't been able to really get any information on a joint angles other than max angles.
1350 ujoint is 20° max
1410 ujoint is 35-37° max
The driveline shop I use are a smart bunch of guys... hopefully they'll know what to do lol.
Anyone have any idea how bad 11 degree ujoint angle is?
Ya... nobody seems to know... lol...
Some reading I've been doing:
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101
https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html
Tom woods talks a bit about not going over 15° and other places say 7°
Going to move on to other stuff till I know more...
Some reading I've been doing:
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101
https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html
Tom woods talks a bit about not going over 15° and other places say 7°
Going to move on to other stuff till I know more...
Got the bottom intercooler mounts welded and intercooler piping cut and ready for welding.
I mounted my intercooler a little differently than I've seen others do...
I will have the top mounts inside the rad support and the bottom mounts welded to the rad support itself. This gets the intercooler square and closer to the rad to have the benefit of the fans... and makes the couplers accessible along with the angles better for the pipe.
The center brace was removed and a new one will be relocated to the inside of the rad support at top and bottom between radiator and intercooler... I know some leave it out... I think it's a good idea to put it back for added strength.
Dont make the mistake I made... While cutting and fitting the intercooler I ended up cutting too much material from the rad support... I'll have to add some material back and gusset the hoop some... measure twice cut once lol.
Some pictures:
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I mounted my intercooler a little differently than I've seen others do...
I will have the top mounts inside the rad support and the bottom mounts welded to the rad support itself. This gets the intercooler square and closer to the rad to have the benefit of the fans... and makes the couplers accessible along with the angles better for the pipe.
The center brace was removed and a new one will be relocated to the inside of the rad support at top and bottom between radiator and intercooler... I know some leave it out... I think it's a good idea to put it back for added strength.
Dont make the mistake I made... While cutting and fitting the intercooler I ended up cutting too much material from the rad support... I'll have to add some material back and gusset the hoop some... measure twice cut once lol.
Some pictures:
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