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Discussion Starter #1
hopefully i can get some help here , replaced batteries , starter , alt , just got a new gpr and when all hooked up i turn the key on and the battery gauge shoots up , then goes way down and the dash lights dim and the gpr makes a loud click , that's when the dash lights dim , this thing was working fine a few weeks ago , its not my glow plugs or injectors , can someone tell me the proper way to test the gpr? i got it a few days ago from ford , it runs perfect its just getting the thing to turn over fast enough to fire
 

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GPR has nothing to do with how fast the starter turns the engine over.

With what you've replaced it sounds like you have bad cables, a poor connection, or the batteries have been drawn down somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
im thinking the cables , is it normal to hear the loud click from the gpr when you turn the key?

could any certain fuses cause this?
 

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Yes, GPR has a BIG contact plate, and clicks pretty loudly when it closes.

The relay itself shouldn't have any impact on crank speed, but if one or more glow plugs is pullling too much current, it could drop the voltage to the point that it slows down the starter. It might be instructive to disconnect the big-terminal wire from the relay that goes to the glow plugs, and then crank it and see if it cranks faster.

Best test for the relay is to measure the voltage at each of the big terminals with the key in RUN (before it times out). Both should be about 11.5V. The "always hot" terminal will probably be slightly higher than the one going to the GPs, but if the _difference_ is more than 0.3V, then the relay may indeed be what's pulling the voltage down.
 

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Had same problem. Replaced the batteries and starter... ended up being cables
 

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Had same problem. Replaced the batteries and starter... ended up being cables
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, GPR has a BIG contact plate, and clicks pretty loudly when it closes.

The relay itself shouldn't have any impact on crank speed, but if one or more glow plugs is pullling too much current, it could drop the voltage to the point that it slows down the starter. It might be instructive to disconnect the big-terminal wire from the relay that goes to the glow plugs, and then crank it and see if it cranks faster.

Best test for the relay is to measure the voltage at each of the big terminals with the key in RUN (before it times out). Both should be about 11.5V. The "always hot" terminal will probably be slightly higher than the one going to the GPs, but if the _difference_ is more than 0.3V, then the relay may indeed be what's pulling the voltage down.
after i get new cables i will do this , forgot to mention i undid the entire gpr and tried cranking and it didn't really change , anyone know the best place to get cables for these?
 

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Why not get your meter out and start testing the cables.

Disconnect one battery and then place the negative probe of the meter on a good ground. Then touch the actual positive post of the battery with the positive probe of the meter and see what it reads, then to the cable clamp and then the other end of the cable. Then do the same with the other battery. You can test the negative cables the same way but with the positive probe connected to the positive of the battery. If you see any voltage drop you just may of found your problem, if there is no voltage drop then your problem is still elsewhere.

For cables it depends on what you want to spend and how long you want to wait. NAPA, Autozone, and other automotive parts stores sell sets for our trucks. Or if you have a Interstate Battery dealer they used to sell them and then there is Rock Auto or Custom Battery Cables if you want to wait a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
orielly has a set for truck for around 90 dollars , cant wait around for these cables too much longer , they need to be changed anyways there already off the truck so im committed now
 

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Discussion Starter #10
put new cables on , still nothing , turn the key and the battery gauge doesent even move! and the noise the truck makes when the door is open starts going faster then fades down
 

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Sounds likes you have a ground problem or you are drawing power from the batts with the keys off...When you replaced the cables did you clean the block where the ground cables go? Also you might run another cable from block to the frame to see if that fixes it
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well i figured out my batteries were no good even after they said they were , threw my sd batteries in it and it fired right up , stupid auto stores...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i found my slow crank problem , now it starts when it wants to , oil is in the hpop , has a new cps what else?
heres a video of it
Picture 389 - YouTube
 
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