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· All Ford Guy
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, first of all thanks for all the replies and offers to assist!!! Sounds like I am experiencing an issue some of you have already survived, THANK YOU for sharing your fixes to!
This is not an excuse for not posting sooner, but, yes, as someone posted, I did drive non-stop to get home while it was runnning!!!! Ran a few test in the shop and was beat, then had to run the oldest boy to Youth Group, then had to get to bed as I had to be at work this morning!

So, I did get the truck started Monday morning after a few tries and towed the trailer home without issue... no power either as I had pulled the chip! Something had definitely drained down as it ran choppy and had no throttle response for about 20-30 seconds of running.

After getting the trailer home, parked, and the truck into the shop I shut it down and... with minimal cranking it fired right up, three times. Go figure! Didn't try a fourth time as it seemed to be starting every time, though with a longer crank time than before.
Interestingly, after the truck idled about 15 minutes at the RV dumpsite closest to home, I believe some type of bleed down also occurred as the motor had a noticeable miss as boost came up as I accelerated back onto the freeway.

I let it sit a few hours, and with the EASE scanner recording I turned the key and after a short crank it fired right up. Repeated this a few more times and gave up on it doing the no-start thing again. While I was wanting to see if the HPO pressure was under 500 psi when I experienced a no-start, the truck wouldn't no-start!
Playback of the ICP and duty cycle showed that with the ignition on, the duty-cycle defaulted to 14%, when cranking the HPO quickly climbed and the motor started up. HPO shot up over 1,000 psi and settled back down to about 570-600 psi and duty cycle went up to about 45-50% before it settled down to 12-13%.

Worth noting again is that this truck normally starts after only a second or so of cranking, never had remotely extended cranking like it seems to now.
I believe that with hot oil and a heat soaked motor, my no start was probably from inadequate HPO to tell the PCM to activate the injectors as some suggested. Wish I could replicate the symptom with the scanner recording?

I will attempt to assemble a pressure tester as outlined by Kim lux to see if I can find a bank that is dropping oil pressure.
I am semi-focused on a bad o-ring. When I first installed my 130c injectors I discovered a cut o-ring and replaced it before continuing. Unfortunately I had several other injectors already in. Assuming it was a fluke I just replaced the one, but later heard some talk about the possibility of a bad batch of o-rings going out the major rebuilders...

I hope to pinpoint a cylinder or bank of cylinders before the 8 sets of O-rings I ordered arrive. Hate to go through a whole o-ring swap if it isn't the issue!

Thanks to all who replied or at least looked at my original post to see if they could help! Sorry for the ramble but I wanted to at least finish the story for those who offered me help!

TC
 

· OEM Moderator
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10,051 Posts
Tim you can also pull off one HPOP hose and cap it to compare results side to side.

Tom
 

· <<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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11,602 Posts
Hey I am up in Snohomish if you need any help... Let me know.
 

· All Ford Guy
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the tip Tom. I was going to try to configure a hand pump that I could use to pressurize an individual rail and close a valve like a leakdown detector and see how well each bank holds up. According to Kim Lux' posting, a rail should hold 3,000 psi overnight, no problem.
The "problem" I found today at the hydraulic shop was that this little setup would cost me well over $150 to have made up at the Parker dealer. We have an Ag/Industrial place I will try tomorrow.

CSI - Joe is it? Thanks, do you live up here or in OR? and...based on your sig, I have to ask; "Got Gauges?"

Really is pointing towards o-rings or IPR. I replaced the IPR less than a year ago so swapping the old/working one would be pretty easy, but the EASE makes it look like it is bringing HPO up just fine.

Take care!

TC
 

· <<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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11,602 Posts
LOL 13 now... Soon to be 16!
 

· Registered
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64 Posts
Thanks for the tip Tom. I was going to try to configure a hand pump that I could use to pressurize an individual rail and close a valve like a leakdown detector and see how well each bank holds up. According to Kim Lux' posting, a rail should hold 3,000 psi overnight, no problem.
The "problem" I found today at the hydraulic shop was that this little setup would cost me well over $150 to have made up at the Parker dealer. We have an Ag/Industrial place I will try tomorrow.

CSI - Joe is it? Thanks, do you live up here or in OR? and...based on your sig, I have to ask; "Got Gauges?"

Really is pointing towards o-rings or IPR. I replaced the IPR less than a year ago so swapping the old/working one would be pretty easy, but the EASE makes it look like it is bringing HPO up just fine.

Take care!

TC

I made the testor., you can borrow if you like. Im local to you. PM me for time/place
 

· OEM Moderator
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If you have a min post up a pic and some information on that. We need to start building up information like that here.

Tom
 

· All Ford Guy
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you have a min post up a pic and some information on that.
I think I can do that! :D I assume I can upload pics to this site and then link to them.... I'll take some pics as I go and then figure out the logistics of sharing them!

TC
 

· Taters #2 Fan
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824 Posts
i was able to find my broke o-ring by just pulling the valve cover and as you crank it oil would come out around the injector
 

· Taters #2 Fan
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824 Posts
If its a middle wouldnt you see oil in the fuel bowl?
 

· All Ford Guy
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From what I read, I think you are both right. Thanks for the suggestions!

Upper ring may reveal itself looking under the valvecover, and if you have the factory fuel system, a middle ring failure would allow the oil to darken the fuel filter.

I will be pressurizing the HPO rails tonight with a fixture I made from Kim Lux' webpage and see how that goes. I suspect I will be changing o-rings Saturday.

On a different note, I know these motors are very oil sensitive - this is the first round of using the new Rotella... the low ash or low emmissions blend that is CJ-4 spec'd. Anyone have any issues with the new oil, differences in the anti-foam content???
 

· Failure to Communicate
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1,102 Posts
I don't like the new oil, seems to give me that same sound you get with an ICP mod on the truck, I use delo but it is in that new blend now. It could also be because the oil got low and I didn't know it:(

Seems as though oil had started leaking out around the dipstick nut at the pan, I didn't realize it was leaking very much at all cause there was never really any on the bottom of the truck and it just looked like seepage, soon found out after I changed the oil within 2 weeks I lost 3-4 quarts truck died on me once at a light and was a bear to get started and I checked it then. No oil in the fuel and no leaks I could find other than the dipstick so I tightened the nut and it hasn't seeped at all since then but I couldn't believe how much came out that fast.

So could it just be that the oil got foamed up when it got low and I need to change it or is it just the new oil IDK.
 
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