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Discussion Starter #1
I have. 2006 6.0 ecsb, I'm starting to get surface rust on my frame and on my wheel wells how do I go about removing at and keeping it that way, I was thinking on my wheel wells just sanding it and spraying it down with some rubber coating or Bedliner, is this a good idea or no?
 

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Clean the rust off with a wire wheel on a grinder, spray everything your going to paint with rust cutter from TSC wait 24hrs and then paint everything with 395a or por15
 

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biostroke1
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I'm also here in the rust belt. I bought a totally rust free truck from cali. After I removed the factory frame coating, I painted my entire under carriage (used restoleum) I spray a mixture of 1 gal of new 15 40 motor oil and 3 gal of wd40 before winter. Make sure to spray up into the front fenders, way up into the rear quarters, inside the doors (widows rolled up), and anywhere else that salty water will collect. Your truck will drip oil for days so don't park on a nice drive way. 5 years and counting still no rust any where. Re-apply oil once a month during snowy months or after several washes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After I spray it with rust cutter can I drive it or should I do it a day where I don't have to drive? After that could I spray it with truck bed liner or something? Because everywhere I looked por15 is expensive
 

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You can drive it but avoid dirt and dust, 395a is about $65 a gallon at my local store it's a hard product to find but it is an awesome product, the only bad think with it is you can't paint over it or it will turn green and its sticky for weeks beacuse its extremely oil base but you can drive it that way
 

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biostroke1
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After I spray it with rust cutter can I drive it or should I do it a day where I don't have to drive? After that could I spray it with truck bed liner or something? Because everywhere I looked por15 is expensive
I used por15 on my first truck and it is very expensive and didn't work that good. It adhered to the rusty parts great but fell off everything else. So it seemed I would've had to sandblast first anyway in order to give the por15 something to stick to. Once your frame and undercarriage is cleaned and prepped, a few quarts of black rustoleum, a cheap sprayer from harbor freight and go to town.
 

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I really like 395a it sticks great to anything and soaks in good. I pretty sure it use to be a military grade paint used on fuel tanks before they put them under ground
 

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Bobs 7.3
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Ive done the used oil trick for years on my vehicles. Powerwash the underneath good spray paint it with good rustoleum paint or brush on then take a spray bottle of used motor oil The heavier the better and coat the entire underneath then find yourself a good dirt road and blast up and down it about 5 times then go back home (or take the spray bottle with you and give it another coat (youll be building it up as the dust will seal the layers of oil) then go back down the road again 5 times and go wash the truck off (everything will be a dust storm) but not the underneath then drive as usual. works awesome costs nearly nothing, seals the metal and bolts underneath and when you take a bolt off 5 years down the road they come right out with ease. If someone doesnt believe me (as many havent) go to a local scrap yard and crawl under any car thats had an oil leak and wipe the oily dirt off and youll find the paint is as good as new under that caked on oil n dirt. I live in the snow belt now for 25 years and never have a rust problem. Once the last coat of dirt dries to the oil it looks as its just a dusty undercarrage. The 395a is awesome but good luck at finding it.
 

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Bobs 7.3
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I used por15 on my first truck and it is very expensive and didn't work that good. It adhered to the rusty parts great but fell off everything else. So it seemed I would've had to sandblast first anyway in order to give the por15 something to stick to. Once your frame and undercarriage is cleaned and prepped, a few quarts of black rustoleum, a cheap sprayer from harbor freight and go to town.
With por 15 you dont sandblast the surface, you scrape off the heavy rust and leave the rest there so the por15 has something to adhere to as it doesnt adhere well at all to smooth surfaces without por 15 prep applied first. I used por 15 on my oil pan 4 years ago and it looks as if its a new oil pan today. you cant just buy a gallon and go under there and slap it on especially if its not rusty cause it will peel right off in a year. Its made to adhere to rust and seal the rust and metal without any pores (when its dry) to let moisture in. Without moisture no rust and any other off the shelf paints dry and leave microscopic pores that lets the moisture in and starts rust. So if using regualr paint the more the coats the better then theres lees pores exposed to let moisture in.
 
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