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Monty'sWhiteF250
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a spot on my fender where my factory flares used to be that is rusting. I took it to a body shop for an estimate to get it fixed and he told me around $700. Hes talking like the half to cut half my panel out to patch it. Maybe I'm wrong but it doesn't look like that much work would need to be done to fix it. Any suggestions on how to proceed or do it myself would be appreciated. I also plan on doing a bed liner on the fenders and rockers soon.





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Monty'sWhiteF250
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Lol thanks. I cleaned it up with a wire brush and some light sand paper.

Then used this stuff. Says for use on heavy rusted areas.


After it dries real good im gonna use this on the outside part and then maybe just do the bed liner stuff over it.



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I found a brand new never used bed on CL for $1000 . I had the same problem with my old truck..
 

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Monty'sWhiteF250
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Discussion Starter #5
Yea if I had to pay 700 for a repair I'd rather just buy a whole new bed for 1000


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I found one on Craigslist.
There are a couple places around me that take off the beds on install utility boxes on the trucks and the sell the beds..
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Where can you buy a bed for $1000? I will take one
I'll take 6!!! And sell them all to a junk yard for 2000 a piece. They will sell them for 3000 each.

To the OP, that "fix" you did will last about 6 months. The rust is starting from the inside and working out. You need to cut out the old rotted piece and put in new metal. 700 is cheap to do both sides and repaint it
 

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Rustolium will not stop the rust. I restored muscle cars for years. I used a product called POR15. Got it from Eastwood products. It has a chemical in it that will STOP the rust. Always had great results.
 

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Monty'sWhiteF250
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Little late now lol already have herculiner over it


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That's okay, the por15 doesn't work either. I used their whole kit and followed each step precisely. I am an engineer and I obsess over exact directions. The rust bubbled through the por15 even when both sides of the metal were easily accessible and throroughly coated. Por15 is a scam.

How about some pics of the final deal? Of course, the rust will continue under the liner but maybe slower and less visible.
 

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Monty'sWhiteF250
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I'll get a close up later. Here's how it turned out tho. I think I'm gonna go higher on the fender tho and still need to do the bumpers.


My lines aren't the greatest


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COMPUTER BLUE
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First off 3000 for a bed is stupid either your way off price wise or the junk yards you deal with are ridiculus. I can get 2010 dually bed take offs for 1800-2500 and I think that's high price wise


Anyway don't they make some flares that you need to cut the fender out for? You could run that style and cut out the rot completely
 

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Monty'sWhiteF250
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yea I thought about going that route but they are pretty expensive. I guess less expensive than a new bed or getting it fixed tho lol


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zfsix4our
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296 Posts
Im going to do the same thing soon on the same body line, I hate rust. I even have a little surface rust on my 08 from my tires slingin rocks. All the new metal on trucks now is so crappy, I swear my 94 ranger thats been covered in mud its whole life is in better shape than these newer trucks.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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First off 3000 for a bed is stupid either your way off price wise or the junk yards you deal with are ridiculus. I can get 2010 dually bed take offs for 1800-2500 and I think that's high price wise
I can get brand new take offs for 1800-2000 but they are not the same and there is a TON of them with little to no demand.

But a 99-2009 bed there are almost NO CLEAN ONES and tons of demand, hence the 3000 price tag for a nice one.

this is the same junk yard that I can buy core powerstrokes from for 400
 
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