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Truck starts and idles fine then after about 15 seconds or so goes into a choppy idle and check engine light comes on. Put in gear it smooths out and picks up a couple hundred rpm's. Idles same in park and neutral . No codes.
 

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I would start by checking all your valvecover harness connections for evidence of melting/burning. Also pull the oil cap and take a sniff to see if it smells like burned electrical insulation. Cheers!
 

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The more we know about your truck, the more likely we can help. Put ALL its details into your signature so they show with each reply, as this caption explains:

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Pull the ICP plug and check for oil inside. Mine had only a little, but the idle would occasionally surge & pulse on startup. After swapping it to this ~$14 knock-off, that hasn't happened, and the truck has a little more pep.
 

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I would start by checking all your valvecover harness connections for evidence of melting/burning. Also pull the oil cap and take a sniff to see if it smells like burned electrical insulation. Cheers!
I would start by checking all your valvecover harness connections for evidence of melting/burning. Also pull the oil cap and take a sniff to see if it smells like burned electrical insulation. Cheers!
Everything looks fine and no smell,probably only 5k on new valve cover gaskets.
 

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The more we know about your truck, the more likely we can help. Put ALL its details into your signature so they show with each reply, as this caption explains:

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Pull the ICP plug and check for oil inside. Mine had only a little, but the idle would occasionally surge & pulse on startup. After swapping it to this ~$14 knock-off, that hasn't happened, and the truck has a little more pep.
no oil and this happens after every start up and runs the same if pluged or unpluged
 

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With a CEL light you have a code that can be read. This code will help a lot in determining what the problem is.

You can also unplug the valve cover connections one at a time to see if you can isolate it to one side or the other. Unplug one of them and see if it changes or stays the same. If it changes how the truck is running plug it back in and move to the next one. If you unplug it and nothing changes you have gotten close to the problem and will need to pull that valve cover or reinspect the connector on the pigtail and the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With a CEL light you have a code that can be read. This code will help a lot in determining what the problem is.

You can also unplug the valve cover connections one at a time to see if you can isolate it to one side or the other. Unplug one of them and see if it changes or stays the same. If it changes how the truck is running plug it back in and move to the next one. If you unplug it and nothing changes you have gotten close to the problem and will need to pull that valve cover or reinspect the connector on the pigtail and the valve cover.
If it was in the harness why would it idle fine when 1st started,doesn't run long enough for heat to cause the problem. My code reader finds no codes...it works on my 2 other gas vehicles.
 

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You need a code reader that can read Fords codes, most can't. Check out Forscan with a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the OBD II Port.

And yes it can be heat related. I it is the injectors or wiring the IDM will shut down the bad side or injectors when it detects a problem.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 

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You need a code reader that can read Fords codes, most can't. Check out Forscan with a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the OBD II Port.

And yes it can be heat related. I it is the injectors or wiring the IDM will shut down the bad side or injectors when it detects a problem.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
seems as though the injectors for cyl. 6 and 8 are losing power....pulled valve cover and found no type of wiring problem. like I stated earlier runs fine when 1st. started after about 15 second or so is when the cel comes on and the choppy idle. shut it off and it repeats itself.
 

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As previously mentioned, if you're getting the CEL, you need to get the code that is stored. If you can't, here are some tests you can do with a DVOM: For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). If those check out OK, you may need to check all the way back to the IDM connector (see attached). Cheers!
 

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Truck starts and idles fine then after about 15 seconds or so goes into a choppy idle and check engine light comes on. Put in gear it smooths out and picks up a couple hundred rpm's. Idles same in park and neutral . No codes.

Did you change your engine oil lately? I changed mine using a value brand motor oil. It caused my truck to surge really bad at start up until the engine was warm. Sometimes it would only last a second, other times it would go on for much longer. I decided to change it and then used shell Rotella T6 5-30 synthetic and it stopped and I got more power and better mileage. Engine is quieter and more as well as quicker boost

95 F250 4x4 ext cab long bed (for sale) 250k 50k on new ford Tranny 7.3 PSD 4” turbo back TS performance 6 position chip, S&B intake
99 E99 F350 Super Duty 4x4 reg cab long bed utility/service body 7.3 450k fresh ford motor, rebuilt trans, edge insight cts2 and revolver 6 position chip, 4” turbo back dual exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Truck had been sitting about 3 yrs. because I started having problems (same problem). 1st thing I did was change oil before getting it going again. And it doesn't change when warmed up.The ecm is shutting down 6&8 injectors.
 

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Have you done the test in the GB_Tech_Bulletin that Patrick posted?
 

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Anyone think it could be the CPS? I had trouble with my truck randomly idling really rough. Met a 7.3 guy and he told me to go down to the international and buy one with the blue platic on it. Havent had any trouble since and that was over 50K miles ago. Also maybe a new Valve cover gasket wiring harness may not be a bad freshen up. Not too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did all the tests listed above everything within specs replaced v/cover gasket {found insulation split on 1 wire } replaced IDM still the same damn thing ???????
 
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