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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I added the fuel rail crossover to my 2001 F350. I did it to my 2000 F250 about 5 years ago.

Gosh...I must be getting old.....took me all evening last night and from 1 to 7 today. I fought the front nipple for hours. Dropped it 4 times almost never found it one time. I finally gave up and paid a buddy mechanic a hundred bucks to come over. He got it screwed in in 20 minutes.

I'm so sore I can barely move. But it runs quieter and smoother now.

Please nobody post that it's a worthless add-on.
 

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So worth the money? I am really struggling with getting one or not.
 

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I put a crossover tube on my 7.3L and it does run smoother, particularly at idle.

I bought the stainless varietal as opposed to the hose version. The stainless tube goes underneath the turbo and fits real nice. They claim the stainless is a permanent installation. The hose type lasts a year only they claim.

Also, put the thing together with red Permatex threadlocker. (Red Locktite leaks in my experience. Ask me how I know....) Red Permatex threadlocker is available at Autozone for cheap. Those pressure oil rails have an outrageous amount of oil pressure, so use red Permatex on the fitting threads AND the tube to fitting surface. Wait a day before you start your truck for the Permatex to really set up and harden.

Second time through I got mine to seal correctly. It took me days to complete also. Maybe I could do it fast, but I'd pay for the quick job in errors and trashed body. Too old also....
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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good for stock nozzles.. anything over that should be a full regulated return...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I'm stock. I think it's worth the money. Idle is much smoother now and cold acceleration is noticeably quieter. For me I think it was worth crawling all over the engine...lol. Next a 6.0 trans cooler.

I wish this F350 had what I did to my F250. I'll get there.
 

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I just installed one last week. I am Very happy with the results. The truck runs smoother at idle and is much quieter as well.
 

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I have heard it helps to loosen the bracket to give more room when trying to remove the front driver side fitting..Did you do that or not mess with it. that is the fitting or nipple you are referring to right.??

how hard was the passenger side rear on to get out. ?? I was going to try and tackle that same project plus add replacing the metal fuel lines with SS braided using AN fittings 3/8" size while in there.



Well, I added the fuel rail crossover to my 2001 F350. I did it to my 2000 F250 about 5 years ago.

Gosh...I must be getting old.....took me all evening last night and from 1 to 7 today. I fought the front nipple for hours. Dropped it 4 times almost never found it one time. I finally gave up and paid a buddy mechanic a hundred bucks to come over. He got it screwed in in 20 minutes.

I'm so sore I can barely move. But it runs quieter and smoother now.

Please nobody post that it's a worthless add-on.
 

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POWER Junkie
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I have heard it helps to loosen the bracket to give more room when trying to remove the front driver side fitting..Did you do that or not mess with it. that is the fitting or nipple you are referring to right.??

how hard was the passenger side rear on to get out. ?? I was going to try and tackle that same project plus add replacing the metal fuel lines with SS braided using AN fittings 3/8" size while in there.
It's right backwards on the FRX. Front passenger side and rear driver's side. The rear one is easy, but the front passenger is a PITA.
 

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what did I mess that up.. I thought the driver side fuel come in the front of the engine on that side not the back.. Is that not part of the problem with the #8 injector making noise as the #6 cylinder "fires" then the #8 "fires" and the lack of proper fuel pressure makes the noise.

I plan to take the turbo off so the back driver side may not be that hard, the front pass side maybe loosen the AC bracket? would help with that one.

When you get the metal fuel line nut off the check valve on both sides what is best to remove the check valve, socket or wrench.
 

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With the FRX, you just remove the plugs and add the lines in their place. You don't mess with the stock supply lines.
 

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Thats what i was going to do and while in there upgrade fuel lines to braided stainless steel along with the FRX project. larger fuel line at 3/8"

With the FRX, you just remove the plugs and add the lines in their place. You don't mess with the stock supply lines.
 

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POWER Junkie
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Gotcha!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's right backwards on the FRX. Front passenger side and rear driver's side. The rear one is easy, but the front passenger is a PITA.
Oh man is it ever. No room to get your hand in there. I took a section clothes hanger and put it in thee hole and slid the nipple down the wire so it would go right to the hole and not fall down somewhere. Even that didn't work. My hand was so sore for hours after fighting with the front fitting.
 

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Thats what i was going to do and while in there upgrade fuel lines to braided stainless steel along with the FRX project. larger fuel line at 3/8"
If your going threw all that work to upgrade your fuel lines I would just look at the quad feed setup at cncfabricationllc.com. I believe it's good up to 600hp. I built my own set up. But at $250 I think it's a great price. It removes all lines and fittings from the fuel bowl to the heads and replaces them. It supply fuel to all 4 ports.
 

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I have read you can loosen the AC compressor bracket enough to allow for more room in the front passenger side one. Is that not true or were you not able or did not know about that bit of info.



Oh man is it ever. No room to get your hand in there. I took a section clothes hanger and put it in thee hole and slid the nipple down the wire so it would go right to the hole and not fall down somewhere. Even that didn't work. My hand was so sore for hours after fighting with the front fitting.
 
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