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WINNING
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before someone says it, I know there are threads about this already, but I have specific question. So here goes, I am getting ready to pull the cab for the second time to do the gaskets. Well the first time they were done, the mechanic torqued the studs to 260 ft. lbs. My question is, would it be safe to reuse the studs in my case and only torque them to the 250 ft. lbs. that ARP reccomends? Thank you for the help.

-French
 

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I Just Break Stuff
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Best I can remember. ARPs are torqued to 245. I believe they can be used 5 times. Seeings how they where torqued to 260, you may want to call ARP and see. Maybe someone else will chime in that knows a little more about it. I've never heard of the effects of torquing them past spec. Don't know if it would hurt them or not. I'm not an engineer, but I'm sure there's a formula as long as my leg to figure it out.
 

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your mom
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it shouldnt hurt but do you know why the gaskets went heads warped? hows the deck of the block. I'm runing arp and there tq to 280 cuz your not the first to blow gaskets with arps. i dono exactly but some one told me i was better off with them at 280 just becafull not to brake them.
 

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Call ARP and get the maximum length on the stud. After install and use, they will stretch a bit. If they are in tolerance, use them. I've heard people say that they don't stretch... bull####.

Get a micrometer and take a look.
 

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WINNING
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it shouldnt hurt but do you know why the gaskets went heads warped? hows the deck of the block. I'm runing arp and there tq to 280 cuz your not the first to blow gaskets with arps. i dono exactly but some one told me i was better off with them at 280 just becafull not to brake them.
I am actually suspecting a cracked head to be the culprit, but I'm not 100% sure either way. It will only leak when the engine is cold, but once everything heats up, it doesn't leak again until it has sat for a few hours. I have already bought different heads and have new gaskets sitting in my garage, so they are getting changed one way or another.

-French
 

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I've seen ARP's reused many times and only ever seen one break I think. I wouldn't think twice about reusing yours. Just use lots of lube when you're retorquing them
 

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WINNING
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There should be a length that states the fatigued state.
Do you know what this length is by chance?

I've seen ARP's reused many times and only ever seen one break I think. I wouldn't think twice about reusing yours. Just use lots of lube when you're retorquing them
What lube would you reccomend? ARP's or another brand?

-French
 

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Do you know what this length is by chance?


-French
Like I said, call ARP to verify the length and then mic it out. Better to get the info straight from the source.

I've mic'd my 7.3 ARP's that where used twice by me and they were in damn near brand new shape.

The H11's I just sold, were the same way.

I've used the ARP lube on H11's and ARP's. Just remember, don't YANK the torque wrench. Gently pull to the desired setting. More studs have been broken by incorrect installation than anything else.
 

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Damnkids Motorsports
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Get the new ARP lube, you don't have to torque them as much and they are way more consistent. At least according to ARP....
 

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Get the new ARP lube, you don't have to torque them as much and they are way more consistent. At least according to ARP....
I heard that from someone else as well.. but my old bottle of ARP assembly lube\paste looks just like the brand new bottle. :confused:
 

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Damnkids Motorsports
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I heard that from someone else as well.. but my old bottle of ARP assembly lubepaste looks just like the brand new bottle. :confused:
They came out with new torque specs to go with the new lube, so I would assume something has changed. The info was posted here a little while back by Adam @ FCDP.
 

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Ford Motor Co. Worker
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new torque is 210 with the new lube. also they are said to snap at 270 with the new lube
SNAP at 270. I doubt that. I work with torque tolerances. In the automotive industry the we try to achieve a breaking of no less than 1 1/2 times the mean torque. That would be the lowest. If the breaking point is less than that, a new fastener is used or the part itself will be redesigned. It is not uncommon to see the breaking point of the fastener to reach 2 1/2 time the mean torque. So in my opinion if the recommended torque is 210 then the breaking oint of the fastener will be 315. Just from what I have observed. If anyone has real numbers please post them.
 

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SNAP at 270. I doubt that. I work with torque tolerances. In the automotive industry the we try to achieve a breaking of no less than 1 1/2 times the mean torque. That would be the lowest. If the breaking point is less than that, a new fastener is used or the part itself will be redesigned. It is not uncommon to see the breaking point of the fastener to reach 2 1/2 time the mean torque. So in my opinion if the recommended torque is 210 then the breaking oint of the fastener will be 315. Just from what I have observed. If anyone has real numbers please post them.
Yield.


Read the middle of the page.

ARP | The Official DIESEL Website of Automotive Racing Products
 

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Damnkids Motorsports
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Yield does not = snap.

It really makes you wonder just how many of these things are installed incorrectly. Did anyone ever get any info on telling if the studs are yielded or not? I had a set put in by the dealer, and they took them out because the gaskets blew again, I would like to check them over to make sure they're still reusable.
 

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Yield does not = snap.

It really makes you wonder just how many of these things are installed incorrectly. Did anyone ever get any info on telling if the studs are yielded or not? I had a set put in by the dealer, and they took them out because the gaskets blew again, I would like to check them over to make sure they're still reusable.
"If you apply a stretching load to the bolt (tensile load), it starts to permanently deform at its Yield Strength and breaks at its Ultimate Tensile Strength"
 
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