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Discussion Starter #1
whats a good 6.0 return kit? Not looking to spend over 500 dollars, does the cab have to come up? Whos got the best/worst prices?
 

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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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regulated return kit? i just bought one from Dozer's Diesel for $475. i installed it with the cab on and i'd rather smash my nut with a ball peen hammer than do it again but the kit works great!

 

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i have a ITP rr very nice setup but i believe its sinister now anyway i would go with dozers looks the same as mine and the price is right. I also did mine cab on by myself and it really does suck.
 

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The Unseen Mod
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The price difference is because the hard lines, being made they aint cheap and they follow the the path of the heads fitment is perfect. Both kits do what they need to.
 

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After all the issues I had with braided on another project I would go with the hard line myself
 

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Dozer Diesels kit is where its at....it looks great under the hood...the customer service is great, and the kit works like its suppose to. And at that price you canot go wrong
 

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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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if you are looking to eliminate the deadhead fuel flow (which is the entire purpose of the RR kit) than any one of these kits will work. just depends on what extras you want. the most important thing to me was getting cool fuel flowing evenly through the heads and that's exactly what Dozer's kit does for $150 less than anyone else.

your truck, your money, your choice
 

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What is the benefit from running an fuel return kit?
feeds fuel into the heads on both ends, better n more constant fuel pressure, keeps you injectors very happy!!!

as far as ordering them, message donzimama he can tell ya where to get em.
 

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The Unseen Mod
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The main differences are the hard lines and design like i said.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well after talking to someone who had problems with the driven diesel kit because of a bent hardline touching an alternator i decided to order a kit from dozers diesel and save the money for my tuned f.i.c.m., seems like enough people running the less expensive kit to try to save the jack. thanks for the help!
 

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well after talking to someone who had problems with the driven diesel kit because of a bent hardline touching an alternator i decided to order a kit from dozers diesel and save the money for my tuned f.i.c.m., seems like enough people running the less expensive kit to try to save the jack. thanks for the help!
you will be very happy.....
 

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spankmyass said:
well after talking to someone who had problems with the driven diesel kit because of a bent hardline touching an alternator i decided to order a kit from dozers diesel and save the money for my tuned f.i.c.m., seems like enough people running the less expensive kit to try to save the jack. thanks for the help!
I'd like to know who that is and what the problem was. The only issue I can think of lately was due to a line being installed incorrectly (someone bent the line in ways that it should not have been bent). There is a reason that my kits have been sold and installed by some of the biggest names in our industry...

spankmyass said:
ok I see now, why such a big price difference they look similar? worth saving the 150+$?
As for the differences...I don't like to make direct comparisons with competitors products, particularly when I have not held the other product in my own hands. Instead, here is some information about why my kit might cost more than others (but is still not the most expensive one out there).

1. CNC Bent S.S. Tubing with high flow banjos and male JIC/AN ends brazed on. These lines ensure that there is NO hose right next to a high heat source like an up-pipe and they also allow a more precise fit in tight locations. They are NOT reworked stock lines like I've seen in other products, they have larger tubing and larger banjo fittings than the stock lines...100% totally custom!
  • Just a clarification, yes, the job of the S.S. tubes in my kits (whether 6.0L or 7.3L) can be done for less money using hose. No, I will never do it that way. Simply put, I don't believe that it is wise to run a hose with pressurized fuel in areas that are close to sources of significant heat (turbocharger and exhaust for example), the heat will eventually take it's toll on the hose and that's not a failure I want on my hands. Not only do I have significantly more trust in bent S.S. tubing in high heat areas, it also allows me to route the fuel system in ways that hose never would (at least not without multiple clamps holding the hose in place).
2. High Quality S.S. Braid over Teflon Hose with Parker hose ends. In addition, we pay to have a sleeving installed on the hose before the ends are crimped on to protect both the hose and the surrounding components under the hood from chafing damage. Bare S.S. braided hose is VERY abrasive!

3. Custom Return Fitting - We ELIMINATE the factory return fitting on the bowl and the factory fuel pressure regulator poppet. This is the cleanest method for doing this, still maintains the factory air bleed off the filter bowl and factory return line connection without any modification to the return line necessary. 100% elimination of the stock fuel pressure regulator poppet so absolutely no chance of competing regulators in the system.

4. Custom Machined Banjo Bolts - High Quality custom S.S. banjo bolts. We don't use 6.4L banjos, we don't buy or modify any other banjo, we built our own because we wanted to offer the best product possible.

5. High Quality Fuelab Fuel Pressure Regulator with Custom S.S. mounting bracket. Yes, even the regulator mounting bracket is custom CNC cut from Stainless Steel. It's also custom bent to locate the regulator in the most "out of the way" possible location we could come up with that was still convenient for adjustment, etc.

6. Made in the USA! - We have done everything we can to make as much of all of our own products in the US as possible. I can't always guarantee that individual mass produced fittings or screws are made here because so many companies have quit making the standard, stock stuff due to the fact they can't compete with the overseas pricing. Here's what I can tell you, if given a reasonable choice (ie. same or better quality), I will always pick the American made parts first. Some info about my fuel system parts:
  • S.S. Braid over Teflon Hose - 100% MADE IN THE USA - Extremely high quality hose from a company that also supplies fuel system and ABS system hoses to a number of the major auto manufacturers.
  • Parker Hose Ends - Parker doesn't really say unfortuantely, but we know their quality so we stick with them. We are looking at an American made fitting, need to see the quality and fit first though.
  • Fuel System Hose Assemblies - 100% PROFESSIONALLY ASSEMBLED IN THE USA
  • CNC Bent Tubing - We've asked for US tubing when possible, the fittings are what they are - CNC BENDING AND ASSEMBLY ARE 100% IN THE USA!
  • Custom Return Fitting - 100% BUILT IN THE USA!
  • Custom Banjo Bolts - 100% BUILT IN THE USA!
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator Mounting Bracket - 100% MADE IN THE USA!
  • Fuelab Fuel Pressure Regulator - 99% MADE IN THE USA! (they can't guarantee the screws and washers)
Sure...I could switch to cheaper chinese hose and "no name" hose ends, I could eliminate the custom return fitting and just shim the crap out of the stock regulator to save $, I could buy mass produced chinese banjo bolts, make the bracket cheaper, etc...but why sacrifice product quality for price? Anyone that knows me will tell you that this is not only how I build my products, it's also how I approach other aspects of this business and my life. There are lots of cheaper ways to do things, but when it has my name on it, CHEAP is NOT a word I want to come to mind when you look at something I've built.

Available by phone, e-mail or PM for questions...as always.
 
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