Replacing pinion seal

I don't see why not

I think that should work fine.. Some people say the right way is
To use a inlb torque wrench and set it up by rotational drag with brake calipers off.

To be honest, I have always used an impact, and it has always worked fine.

none of those methods are ideal. mark the pinion and count how many rotation the nut does to remove.

impact on a crush sleeve is pretty nasty way to go, but as crush sleeves on these seem to fail with normal use...

IMO the proper way to repair it is to replace the crush sleeve with an eliminator. then any future repair will be an impact job with no worries about killing the pinion bearings

is the crush sleeve failure the cause of the leak?

Haven't attempted to fix it yet just noticed the puddle on my driveway and diff is soaked. Are you supposed to replace crush sleeve too?

I had my diesel guy do mine since I don't have any tools for the job, so it was a well spent $90. That was for the parts and labor and me waiting about an hour and half.

Proper way is to replace the crush sleeve. Initial torque on the crush sleeve begins to crush it, then final torque is established when setting the backlash with a dial indicator.
Many have been done with marking, but you cannot be sure to have enough torque to prevent loosening. Even if you have gotten everything exactly where it was, you have lost the initial torque that crushed the crush sleeve.
If this doesn't make sense to you, sub it out.

subing it out for $90 would not be getting it done the 'proper way' but more likely by some of the methods already discussed here

That is correct. Just because u pay someone else to do it, doesn't mean it will be done right. $90 is too cheap to expect it done right. Imho

So you guys think taking it to a ASE certified shop and paying $90 is not getting the job done right???

Well ya know what!!! They fixed my leak!!!!

So I guess you think that a quality job cost $300???

If the differential cover wasn't removed during your $90 repair, then yes, I am saying it was not fixed PROPERLY! Will it hold? Time will tell.
Since YOU brought it up... I am an ASE master tech in diesel and heavy truck.
Just because u were screwed, doesn't mean u should give attitude to someone who is explaining the proper procedure.

mattmankow said:

If the differential cover wasn't removed during your $90 repair, then yes, I am saying it was not fixed PROPERLY! Will it hold? Time will tell.
Since YOU brought it up... I am an ASE master tech in diesel and heavy truck.
Just because u were screwed, doesn't mean u should give attitude to someone who is explaining the proper procedure.

Click to expand...

I wasn't screwed, and you made it sound like I had a incompetent mechanic because of the price of a repair. Maybe some people aren't out too stick it too everyone. Sorry for the attitude defending a mechanic's shop.

And until the truck was totaled by an accident the pinion seal was holding up just fine

the seal is not what is suspect on a $90 repair, the ring and pinion are at risk due to a loose pinion or the bearings get burned if it is overly tight.
if you knew what was being done you would know that a proper repair cannot be done at $90,
a quick stuff in a seal and hope it takes a while to develop an issue is what you can get for that price
the mechanic knows that most people wont want to pay for a proper job so he is doing the quicky

m j said:

the seal is not what is suspect on a $90 repair, the ring and pinion are at risk due to a loose pinion or the bearings get burned if it is overly tight.
if you knew what was being done you would know that a proper repair cannot be done at $90,
a quick stuff in a seal and hope it takes a while to develop an issue is what you can get for that price
the mechanic knows that most people wont want to pay for a proper job so he is doing the quicky

Click to expand...

Well I'm going too stop debating this because the truck that was repaired and the seal working fine was totaled by some lady that blew a red light.

I didn't know that making a comment I would be attacked because of trying too help.

:whs:
You are not being attacked. You are the one with all of the exclamation points and multiple question marks in your post.
There is always more than one way to accomplish something, unfortunately the way most people do differential repairs is erroneous. This can be from lack of training, lack of tools, or just laziness. When I was still doing automotive repairs on customer vehicles, if they didn't want to pay to fix it right, they could take it elsewhere. I won't take on warranty, and liability concerns over a half-a**ed repair. The seal can last indefinitely when under/over torqued. They are very forgiving. Bearings and gear mesh are not so forgiving.
I am not trying to bash you, but an informed PSN member can make his own decisions as to whether he wants to pay now, or pay later. Its no fun sitting on the side of the road after the pinion nut has loosened and destroyed the ring and pinion, and usually the housing. I have actually seen this happen. Just saying...

Ok, back to the op's question before your thread gets busted some more. I recommend getting a manual and doing the pinion seal yourself. You can buy a cd version on Ebay for probably less than $10.

If he has a dial indicator, that is a good idea.

the inch pound dial type torque wrench is the big ticket item for that repair. over $300 tool that is very seldom used
if he is just repairing pinion seal and a crush sleeve the backlash shouldnt change, but if the crush sleeve is loose (and mine was, damaging the shims) you may have to set pinion depth as well as the crush sleeve

this is a pretty good book if you want to play in a rearend
Differentials Book - RPSBOOK-01

According to the fsm... anytime the pinion nut is removed the crush sleeve is to be replaced. Replacing the crush sleeve requires that the pinion depth (backlash adjustment) be reset. Setting the backlash requires a dial indicator.
BTW, pinion nuts are a one time use part also, and must be replaced with service. The crush sleeve is one time use, obviously. Should you get over zealous in tightening it YOU CAN NOT loosen the pinion nut to get the proper backlash. You have to remove the crush sleeve and start over with a new one.

Reading through the other post... did anyone else find it strange that the crush sleeve is a common failure item on these rear ends and is known to be why the pinion seal fails? How does a crush sleeve fail? Lmao.