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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be pulling my fuel bowl this weekend to replace some old O-Rings.

I bought my O-Ring kit from dieselorings.com.

Does anyone have a link to a write up, so I can prep myself on the removal process?


Also, I didn't order new hoses for the fuel bowl when I bought the O-Ring kit. Does anyone have part numbers from international, ford, napa, or advance auto so I can have them for this weekend?

Thanks for any and all help.
 

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It is quite simple on a F-series .... First you need to take off the intake "y" for access to the bowl bolts ( 2 ) then you disconnect the harness which also connects to the IPR so be carefull. Then you loosen the front drain hose ( if you have one) and the clamps on the PUMP side only. Disconnect the 2 return lines from the heads at the FPR before you remove you undo the mounting bolts . Undo the 2 filterbowl mounting bolts and pull it off gently. Make sure you DRAIN the filterbowl BEFORE you remove it.
I took my bowl with me to a o-ring shop partially dissassembled and he matched them up for me... As far as the hoses go I bought them at a hose place . You need 1 ft each of 3/8 and 5/16 300 psi fuel injection hose ...also buy the good clamps ( also for fuel injection). You then take off the little hoses and cut new ones to match from your 1 ft pieces of each. On reassembly attach all hoses to the filterbowl first and tighten them since you will not be able to tighten them after you install the bowl.. re-attach the return lines at the FPR and do not overtighten them since they are compression type...
Hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the wrie up, I went ahead and ordered the high temp hoses and clamps from dieselorings.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got the fuel bowl removed, what a nasty mess that was with all the fuel that was leaked out.

Its a good thing I went ahead and ordered the new hoses as the old ones were old and starting to crack up.


My only question is, that when I pulled the fuel bowl I noticed on one of the wires the little weather protector that keeps the moisture out has start to desinigrate, I guess from the fuel. I am thinking that the wire is for the fuel bowl heater. Where can I get a new wire harness at?
 

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imo you dont need the fuel bowl heater. i live in northern indiana and never had a problem with mine. not to say that some day i wont hook it up again but just my 2 cents. also I have read a number of times that they tend to short out and not work anyways
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My heater element is broke. How do I remove it and replace it?
 

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You need to remove the Stand pipe .... I used a basin wrench but you a can use a crow foot socket /wrench ...remember it is reverse thread and is plastic AND costs $ 80 bucks so be very carefull
 

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Discussion Starter #8



Fuel bowl has been removed, and all orings and hoses replaced.

I re-installed it, and no leaks!

Thanks for all your help blageurt.
 

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Here's the part number for the fuel bowl wiring harness (its about $60 though ... they've gone up!):

Fuel Filter Housing Wiring Harness
(Ford) F7TZ-9S277-AA

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Patrick.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but it was helpful in my recent weekend task of tackling the diesel fuel in the valley of my recently purchased F250 7.3L, so figured I would lead off this one instead of creating a new one.

Only question I have is after the re-install of everything.....should I fill the fuel bowl with fuel to help prime for the first start, or let the mechanical fuel pump do all the work? It is bone dry now and has a new filter as well.

I ask because I would find that after letting the truck sit for a few days with the leak it would be hard to start, assuming that the bowl needed to be refilled before it would kick over. Sitting for only a few hours it would start right up with no problem.

Any feedback on the bowl priming would be appreciated. Also enjoying the forum so far, hate I didn't get involved in this forum while I had my 6.0L a few years ago.
 

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Follow up....

Primed the bowl and began to start and the batteries started to give out on me. Had both charged slow for 24hrs and tried again next day.....same issue. So I began to wonder if I was cranking too long or what. Pulled the yellow top from my Cobra and moved biggest battery I had to other side.....still same, cranked a few times and died out.

Finally figured to pull the terminals apart and sure enough there was enough corrosion to cause slow starts. Got these clean and she fired right up after about 2sec.

Thanks for the help.....just wanted to close my issue in case someone is having the same issue. I know I read somewhere that batteries must be in tip shape when starting back or it wont fly.....true story.
 
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