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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I removed my TW chip last week with the ECU still connected and the batteries hooked up, it was late and dark and I thought I was removing the bolt for the ecu but it turns out it was one of the body harness' to the left of the ecu connector, I didn't realize untill I went to do it back up.

Anyways now I seem to have a p1000 code, I left the batteries disconnected for a few days just to see if that would do anything and now I have a p1000 and a p0603 code...

I figured the p0603 is the Keep Alive Memory being lost because of the battery disconnect, but how long does it take for the p0603 to go away after the batteries are hooked back up?

Also any insight on the p1000?

My truck seems to be running with a shake or a miss, but it hasn't run for about a week so it's cold but I let it run for about 20mins it was up to temp, and it got better but not totally gone...

On another note during this I did the hutch/harpoon in-tank mods, deleted the mixing chamber, added a racor 2micron filter before the pump. After I got it back together the truck wouldn't start, I found that I wasn't getting any fuel pressure at my gauge on the fuel bowl... So I decided to bypass the racor filter to make sure it wasn't a pinched line or a problem in the tank and the gauge started to show pressure normal pressure with key cycles! but in the mean time I probably didn't do the injectors any favors by not having any pressure behind them and trying to start the truck... could that have any impact on the shakey idle?
 

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dinnerbooter treasurer
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Removing the chip without unpulgging the PCM shouldn't matter as long as the keys are not in the truck. Not sure about the miss tho. I would think that you want that 2 micron filter after the pump that is going to be too hard for the pump to pull through.
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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P1000 Monitor Checks Not Complete-More Driving Required


the 2 micron should be after the pump just in case the pump craps out..you dont want pieces going to the injector..and like genuineford said...the pump could be working hard to pull the fuel though causeing the skip..or the skip could be air in the fuel from doing the mod's..takes some miles to get it out of the lines..
 

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Ok so I removed my TW chip last week with the ECU still connected and the batteries hooked up, it was late and dark and I thought I was removing the bolt for the ecu but it turns out it was one of the body harness' to the left of the ecu connector, I didn't realize untill I went to do it back up.

Anyways now I seem to have a p1000 code, I left the batteries disconnected for a few days just to see if that would do anything and now I have a p1000 and a p0603 code...

I figured the p0603 is the Keep Alive Memory being lost because of the battery disconnect, but how long does it take for the p0603 to go away after the batteries are hooked back up?

Also any insight on the p1000?

My truck seems to be running with a shake or a miss, but it hasn't run for about a week so it's cold but I let it run for about 20mins it was up to temp, and it got better but not totally gone...

On another note during this I did the hutch/harpoon in-tank mods, deleted the mixing chamber, added a racor 2micron filter before the pump. After I got it back together the truck wouldn't start, I found that I wasn't getting any fuel pressure at my gauge on the fuel bowl... So I decided to bypass the racor filter to make sure it wasn't a pinched line or a problem in the tank and the gauge started to show pressure normal pressure with key cycles! but in the mean time I probably didn't do the injectors any favors by not having any pressure behind them and trying to start the truck... could that have any impact on the shakey idle?
As long as the keys were out of the ignition, you're fine.
 

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Just drive it, it will be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info guys

I was following "guzzle"s mods

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page


I still have the fuel bowl filter in so the racor 2micron filter is replacing the strainer screen in the mixing chamber so nothing can get into the pump.

Anyone know what the flow rating is on the superduty fuel pump? I want to make sure the filter flow exceeds that.
 

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2 micron is to small for the suction side. IIRC it should flow a quart in 15 seconds.
 

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Racors are mostly suction side filters. If you put it on the pressure side you might need a different type filter. Most racors come in 5,10,or 30 micron elements.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your right it's only rated for vacuum.
 

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Wannabe
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I've been running a Dahl 2 micron pre-pump for many years. The DieselSite fuel system uses the same filter pre-pump. As long as the flow rate is great enough a 2 micron is fine IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There must be something wrong with this specific filter because 1 qt in 15 secs = 1gpm or 60gph, this racor flows 30 gpm...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well after a full afternoon of fu*king around I got the truck to run with the racor filter, it seemed to be a air lock/priming problem between the pump, filter ad fuel bowl.

I still have the SES light on from the other codes, hopefully a little driving time will fix that.
 

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Wasn't the fact filter on the 7.3 a racor? That's what I run. And isn't that post pump? Or am I confused?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you might be able to get a drop in racor brand filter for the fuel bowl, but this is an additional external filter between the tank and the fuel pump on the frame rail.
 

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Wasn't the fact filter on the 7.3 a racor? That's what I run. And isn't that post pump? Or am I confused?
Correct. But if you do the prepump mods, you lose a prepump filtration. He added one in. That reminds me, I really need to do that also, only been 4 years without one.
 
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