[House]

well my trucks currently getting revamped and one of the issues is a nasty rear main leak, since transmission will be out for new clutch this wont be to big of an issue to change. Is there a better gasket then the factory one to get and use? Then the shop doing the work which is a big semi shop said the rear main might leak again down the road from all the abuse it sees and might have wore bearings causing crank play that made it leak, any truth to that? The motor has over 120 sled pulls on it.

 

[JohnDeere9610]

I would say there has to be some truth but to how much no Idea. seal pretty cheap. or you could pull the motor and check bearings not so cheap.

 

[CATdiezel]

well my trucks currently getting revamped and one of the issues is a nasty rear main leak, since transmission will be out for new clutch this wont be to big of an issue to change. Is there a better gasket then the factory one to get and use? Then the shop doing the work which is a big semi shop said the rear main might leak again down the road from all the abuse it sees and might have wore bearings causing crank play that made it leak, any truth to that? The motor has over 120 sled pulls on it.

Several things for me to mention Joe,

One....if your bearings were worn And I LAUGH MY ASS OFF......still laughing....OK.....the damn bearings would have spun already LOL

Two....The factory gasket is a high quality, no need to screw up a good thing

Three.... I have never seen a rear main seal leaking on a PSD before, could just be me though

Four.....JOESEPHINE you have been around long enough to know that maybe they outa be checking for a HPOP leak of some sort somewhere up top or a turbo leak of some sort.




Justin---out:swordfight:

 

[69W900A]

You can check the end play on the crank to see if the thrust bearing is out of spec. You can wear the thrust bearing without causing a spun main bearing. Excessive end play on the crank can cause front/rear main seal leaks.

When the seal if off check to see if the seal surface has a grove worn in it. Most likely it does. Buy a new rear main that has a speedi-sleeve included in the seal kit. This will ensure that, assuming the thrust bearing is ok, the seal will not leak.

It is quite common for the cranks to have grooves cut in them by the seals. We generally don't use standard seals. The additional cost of the repair sleeve seal is not much more than a regular seal and even on the few cases we find that a crank is in good shape on the seal surface the speedi-sleeve works just as well as on a grooved one.

 

[Aljay]

You can check the end play on the crank to see if the thrust bearing is out of spec. You can wear the thrust bearing without causing a spun main bearing. Excessive end play on the crank can cause front/rear main seal leaks.

When the seal if off check to see if the seal surface has a grove worn in it. Most likely it does. Buy a new rear main that has a speedi-sleeve included in the seal kit. This will ensure that, assuming the thrust bearing is ok, the seal will not leak.

It is quite common for the cranks to have grooves cut in them by the seals. We generally don't use standard seals. The additional cost of the repair sleeve seal is not much more than a regular seal and even on the few cases we find that a crank is in good shape on the seal surface the speedi-sleeve works just as well as on a grooved one.

The rear mains seals I have installed come with a speedy sleave (OEM Ford). I would not get an aftermarket seal go to Ford or Motherharvester for it.

 

[69W900A]

An aftermarket seal is ok. The factory ford seal is made by National. I've used quite a few CR (now owned by SKF and the CR name is being retired) seals with no issues. I prefer the CR/SKF material over the National, however I've only seen a few failures of Ford packaged National rear mains.

Now, if you are going to use a National oil seal on a oiled hub - drop the wheel seal and RUN.

 

[Aljay]

An aftermarket seal is ok. The factory ford seal is made by National. I've used quite a few CR (now owned by SKF and the CR name is being retired) seals with no issues. I prefer the CR/SKF material over the National, however I've only seen a few failures of Ford packaged National rear mains.

Now, if you are going to use a National oil seal on a oiled hub - drop the wheel seal and RUN.

On my money maker 93 T-600 Kenworth I run stemcos.

 

[CATdiezel]

You can check the end play on the crank to see if the thrust bearing is out of spec. You can wear the thrust bearing without causing a spun main bearing. Excessive end play on the crank can cause front/rear main seal leaks.

When the seal if off check to see if the seal surface has a grove worn in it. Most likely it does. Buy a new rear main that has a speedi-sleeve included in the seal kit. This will ensure that, assuming the thrust bearing is ok, the seal will not leak.

It is quite common for the cranks to have grooves cut in them by the seals. We generally don't use standard seals. The additional cost of the repair sleeve seal is not much more than a regular seal and even on the few cases we find that a crank is in good shape on the seal surface the speedi-sleeve works just as well as on a grooved one.

Ok on another note the thrust washer is part of a rear main.....and it it was worn that badly it would spin that one. But you have a point to a degree,,,,,although I haven seen MANY worn thrust washers and the seals were no leakers. Reason I know....I was never a field engine mechanic for CAT before LOL

 

[69W900A]

Stemco's are pretty decent. SKF came out last year with a new line of extended life seals that are BY FAR the best seal we have run so far. We were getting steer axle seal failures using either stemco's or the standard SKF seal around 50-75K miles. With the new seals we are going the full life of the lining, which currently seems to be around 125K - in one of the most severe duty environments you can put foundation brakes into.

 

[Aljay]

Stemco's are pretty decent. SKF came out last year with a new line of extended life seals that are BY FAR the best seal we have run so far. We were getting steer axle seal failures using either stemco's or the standard SKF seal around 50-75K miles. With the new seals we are going the full life of the lining, which currently seems to be around 125K - in one of the most severe duty environments you can put foundation brakes into.

I had gone to royal purple in the steer hubs and I could not get the syn. stuff to stay in. I went back to mineral base in the steers. I was tossing around the idea of going to grease fixxing to put the ole girl on the road need all the help I can get as far as keeping the leaks down to a min. I need to take the back sec. off the inj. pump and put a new throttle shaft seal in it and I am good on the engine oil leaks .I have have a seap at the block and the head since it was inframed at 800k oh well there ain't none of them big rigs that do not leak or seap alittle. Thank god for break clean.

CAT. power baby unless It is a sig. series isx cummins then I want one of those. LOL

 

[69W900A]

I wouldn't go to grease hubs, you will not geat the bearing life with grease as you will with oil. If you want a long life oil try something like Chevron ESI or Schaeffer's gear oils, both are excellent oils. If you switch to the new extended life SKF seals I think you'll find they hold the syn gear oil just fine with no leak problems. RP gear oil is primarily made with PAO base oil which naturally shrinks the elastomer commonly used in automotive seals. The RP may not have enough seal swell additives to keep the Stemco elastomer from shrinking.


You can keep the ISX. All the ones we bought at work have had issues and I'm tired of seeing them in the shop. They also don't pull like a C15 even though the numbers look about the same. I also hate the fact that you can't get the top HP rating ISX without the multi-torque programming. For Cummins I'd take a BC, 903, or a KT series any day.

For big-bore engines C15 is the way to go. I prefer the bridge C15's, they had the best hardparts and they are easy to turn up since they were just pre-EPA engines. After CAT having had their hand slapped hard several times in the last few years it's almost impossible to get real HP from CAT anymore. 550 for OTR is just about it. Oh well.

 

[Aljay]

Well I had a turd ( 3406 c Peak motor in my 93) and after mucho deniro spent I blew one two many advances off the front of the engine I put a b mob. 18 deg. inj. pump with centrif. advance. That was the best thing I ever did to my truck. My step brother has a 600 isx in his 99 379 ex. hood Pete. let me tell you it has less gear than his last truck did and it flat pulls the grades . I will tell you I am a cat man I like my old mech. motor but I will look for a new to me truck next year. I am wanting something with at least 550 -600 hp. I want to be able to pull and get decent fuel milage. I could give a crap less about top end(speeding) in 80k lb. truck did all that stupid crap long ago think it is all out of my system. P.S. I will look for a non emission engine heard they wont pull a fat girl down an icy road and they suck the motion lotion.

P.S. thanks for the heads up on the seal info.

 

[69W900A]

The 07+ engines will get better fuel economy (but you'll have to deal with a 10K dollar muffler). The 04-06 engines were overfueled to bring combustion temps down and reduce NOx. The 05-06 CAT engines (specifically C15's) had way retarded timing so they were doggy off the line and also got poor fuel economy. The C15 bridge engines (5 and 6NX engines IIRC) are the ones too look for. Either that or go a bit older and get an electronic 3406 (just b4 the name chagne to C15) factory rated at 600HP, then have it turned up. If you want MPG don't buy a CAT. If you want to pull hard you'll have to buy the fuel and get yellow iron.

We don't have a ISX in the fleet that will keep up with our C15's regardless of the version of the ISX. Not saying it's a bad engine (although they did have some major issues with them. There are updated parts to fix it all though $$$$).

ISX is probably ok in a OTR truck, but we abuse them a bit more than that. The ISX's won't keep up at 50-80K pounds, and when you get out around 100/150/200,000 pounds the ISX just plain falls on it's face. The C15's don't mind. If you want MPG get a Series 60, good engine, great MPG. They aren't power houses though. The 14L S60 at 550HP still only makes around 1500 ft/lbs, but it'll get 5-9mpg depending on the driver and load. I've seen Series 60's with over a million miles without ever having to touch the long block.

 

[Aljay]

The 07+ engines will get better fuel economy (but you'll have to deal with a 10K dollar muffler). The 04-06 engines were overfueled to bring combustion temps down and reduce NOx. The 05-06 CAT engines (specifically C15's) had way retarded timing so they were doggy off the line and also got poor fuel economy. The C15 bridge engines (5 and 6NX engines IIRC) are the ones too look for. Either that or go a bit older and get an electronic 3406 (just b4 the name chagne to C15) factory rated at 600HP, then have it turned up. If you want MPG don't buy a CAT. If you want to pull hard you'll have to buy the fuel and get yellow iron.

We don't have a ISX in the fleet that will keep up with our C15's regardless of the version of the ISX. Not saying it's a bad engine (although they did have some major issues with them. There are updated parts to fix it all though $$$$).

ISX is probably ok in a OTR truck, but we abuse them a bit more than that. The ISX's won't keep up at 50-80K pounds, and when you get out around 100/150/200,000 pounds the ISX just plain falls on it's face. The C15's don't mind. If you want MPG get a Series 60, good engine, great MPG. They aren't power houses though. The 14L S60 at 550HP still only makes around 1500 ft/lbs, but it'll get 5-9mpg depending on the driver and load. I've seen Series 60's with over a million miles without ever having to touch the long block.

Do not curse me and say dogtroit I had a series 60 I hated it. My step bros. truck is a hoss I have pulled 80k up just alittle ol 7% graded and lost 5mph . It will haul ass I have had the speedo pointing straight down (west Texas)and had some left on the tack.I here what you are saying but I am amazed with his truck it has a 13 over and 3.55s.As I said I am a cat guy I just want some big HP so I do not have to struggle, my 93 KW has an issue you would think with 4.10s and a 10 over it would pull a 7% grade but damn it just falls over. I think the factory fuel lines have issues or it just needs a good tune up I got the pump out of a junk yard off a good running b mob. cat. truck was totalled.

 

[69W900A]

I've run some of the same loads with different trucks (both C15 and ISX) on the same hills. At 172K GVW the 550 C15 will top the hill one mainstick gear higher than the either of the Signature 600's or the regular ISXs we have. The ISX's do get better MPG. I won't order any more of them, not enough power and we have had 5 of them IIRC that are scrap iron because they were out of warranty when the dreaded wristpin seizures happened. Had to buy those outright.

Series 60 did have some issues, but they are easily fixed if you have a model with the issue. They are no power houses, but a solid and reliable engine. They do have the signature Detroit external lubrication system though. We don't buy them at work anymore because they just don't have the power for what we do with them. You may just have had a bad one?

If you want real power you won't find it with an electronic engine in a OTR truck these days. If you want something that will pull your guts out get yourself a factory 600hp CPL KTTA and give it a little bump, they'll run 1000-1100HP in a truck (have to watch the temp) and live a long and happy life. 1647 CAT would also be a good choice. Or a 903 at 800HP and governed at 2800-2900 makes a nice package as well.

Only other option is a C15 with a Pitts Programmer on it. I'd rather have a KTA or KTTA in that case.

 

[Aljay]

I will look for a Pete. as soon as funding allows it I am leaning towards a yellow motor. I want a 97-99 379 ex. hood at least a 72 " sleeper I like the way a flat top looks but do not know how smart that would be OTR and I am 6' plus so just getting dressed would not be fun. I am leaning towards a 13 over and 3.55 rears. I had an 11.1 litre Det. so that is why I have a dislike for them i did drive a few 12,7 litre trucks and yes they do get the miles per gal. i would rather have a good pulling truck that will move out of it's own way and give up a few mpg.