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Discussion Starter #1
Ok this past weekend I finnally got to install the 4" blocks that I have had for over 3 years :doh:. Now for the problem I oredered the blocks, u-bolts, and drive shaft hanger from powerstrokeshop.com well they sent me the wrong drive shaft hanger:mad: and now I have a vibration when I leave the line hard (all the time lol). Does anyone know the right part # for the hanger that goes with the 4" rear blocks??

Thanks,

Brian
 

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why did you do blocks and not just leafs watch that axle you will send that son of a bi##h out the azz end
 

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o you might just need to have your driveline ballanced
 

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wrong angle on the driveline will (could) cause the u joint to bind. And if you are racing and such, between the shaft issue and those blocks you are flirting with an accident, imo
 

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Discussion Starter #5
why did you do blocks and not just leafs watch that axle you will send that son of a bi##h out the azz end
All I did was install the factory taller blocks they are not even 4 inches tall so its all good.

tbolt that is correct I need to have the proper drive shaft hanger so the angle is right. I did not have the vibration before I did the new blocks
 

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You may need spacers for your carrier bearing. Just shim it with some flat 1/8" or 1/4" stock. Keep adding shims till the vibration goes away.
 

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All done now
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:whs:
 

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to me, if you installed the factory 3 5/8 blocks, you should not need shims in under your hanger brg. my truck is the same truck, mind you an 03. but same wheelbase and cc as well. it came stock with the 3 5/8 block and it also had no shims. or am i not reading your question right??:doh:
 

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6Leaker
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My truck has 4.25" blocks in it now and no shims on the carrier bearing. I have a very slight vibration but have been keeping an eye on the carrier bearing and its holding up.

When I was looking into it I think the rule of thumb was 1/8" of shim for every inch of lift. I would just find a local metal shop and get some piece of 1/8" plate cut and drilled and then buy some grade 8 bolts of the right length and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
my truck is a F250 and came with teh small blocks I just upgraded to the F350 bigblocks. Before I start adding shims is the hanger bearnings mounts the same P/N for both trucks?
 

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Lost Cause
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You sure you're not experiencing axle wrap?

Stock F-350 had no carrier bearing shims, so chances are you shouldn't need any either. What you might need is a way to limit axle wrap which could be felt with the slight increase in lift. The longer block increases the mechanical advantage of the torque from the axle on the springs.
 

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tonka, i am thinking like you and wondering if the hanger bearings are the same distance down. that would be the only thing that might be different now. i wish i could help you with that part of it but.....
a bump for you on this one anyway.
clarence
 

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If all you did was the stock 350 blocks then check the diff between the carrier brg for your trk and a 350 with the taller blocks They may be different. Did you instal the blocks with the angle the right direction? pinion angled up towards the carrier brg? If not there is the vibration. Just a chance???
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yes all I installed was stock F350 blocks as for the angel blocks I took out non angled blocks and installed non angle blocks. I know other people have done this and was wondering what all they had to do after. I guess its time to start crawling under some trucks with a tape measure lol.
 

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I am not sure if it will be the same for you year, but when I did this with my 02, I added the shims under the carrier bearing and it is smooth as silk.
 

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I am not sure if it will be the same for you year, but when I did this with my 02, I added the shims under the carrier bearing and it is smooth as silk.
Theres your answer. If it worked before it will again. If you changed the heigth then you need to resume the correct pinion angle. Shim the brg and it should be good. Might want to take an angle finder and match up the trans with the diff.
 

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Single piece drive shaft.
 
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