Ran out diesel, crank no start, now massive oil leak

1040 Views 20 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Brandi2002-7.3, 2 mo ago

Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hey guys!

I figured I’d post questions here since I was always **** canned and told to give up my truck to a better owner on ford-trucks.com. You know, though the previous owner Jerry rigged the whole truck.

Anyways, our 2002 F350 7.3L is my husbands daily right now. When he was coming home from the other week the truck ran out of diesel. Previous owner installed a 15 inch pickup on a 18 inch deep aux tank. We’re assuming they was the issues after he was pulled home and we traced the fuel system and put on a new fuel pump since it was whining anyways. After all that and air primed from her, STILL crank no start.

We blew an oil leak upon cranking from the pedestal and we’re doing an Ebpv delete. Previous oil gasket maker’d in everything and stuck gasket maker on a broke ebp sensor to make it clip. They installed a crossover line and upon removing to get the turbo there really wasn’t any oil in it but a few drops. We lost probably 3 quarts. All oil in the valley was near the turbo and hpop “felt” dry to me. Our weep oil was clogged with old oil so I’m guessing there’s been a slow leak, that would explain the wet starter scenario. The valley was a bath at the turn no and hardly any oil near the hpop but it was mixed with fuel from purging the bowl. Would a turbo pedestal blow out that large cause no oil to rails or crank no start? I want to go over everything we can while the turbo is off just incase it’s not just the turbo. We will be checking hpop level today. It was been raining here for 2 weeks straight and we have no garage.Please don’t **** can me for asking “dumb” questions if you find them dumb!

The trucks name is Humpty Dumpty- because Humpty Dumpty always has great falls and all the kings horse and all the kings men (us) can’t put Dumpty back together again (for long it seems). She’s a Oxford white lemon.

Looking forward to some replies!
Brandi

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #3 · 4 mo ago

Hendy said:
Welcome to PSN

do you have a code reader to read the codes with ( having codes to look at makes things much easier for us)
if you don't have a code reader Forscan is a good option

I don't know much about the Super Duty 7.3's but I will try to help you

Only codes we had are for the air intake heater which the wiring fried so that’ll be a delete with the Ebpv, low fuel because sensor doesn’t work, and an icp code 1280. We had the icp one happening for awhile on occasion even with a new icp (yet to replace the pigtail, year later) but after clearing the codes the trucks idle cleared up and she was fine. We also would occasionally throw p0475. We threw a p1211 when it was 18 degrees here with a 1 wind chill in Texas. Her oil temp upon that start was 23 and she wasn’t happy but we had to go somewhere. She never smoked. Her block heater cord fried but whenever she was plugged in she never wanted to start. Unplugged fuel bowl heater too, it almost started a fire. We got a Bluetooth reader to buzz test when we had injector issues.

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #6 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Jax said:
P1280 Ford Code - Injection Control Pressure Circuit Out Of Range Low

Faulty Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor

Injection Control Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted

Injection Control Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

P0475 Ford Code - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction

Faulty Exhaust Back Pressure Valve

Exhaust Back Pressure Valve harness is open or shorted

Exhaust Back Pressure Valve circuit poor electrical connection

P1211 Ford Code - Injector Control Pressure Not Controllable Pressure Above/Below Desired

Low Reservoir Oil Level

Poor Oil Quality Injector "O" Ring Leak

Faulty Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Valve

Faulty Oil Pressure Pump Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Did you put in a Motorcraft ICP sensor? If not, they tend to fail soon.

P0475 - you can delay troubleshooting that but please inspect the wiring. It is the sensor on the HPOP access cover.

P1211 -- a faulty IPR is a constant cause of "crank, no start. Inspect the wiring. Pull the tin nut and the copper actuator cylinder. Oil? That will screw with you.

P1211 - put a tube on the fuel bowl drain valve, and run it down in front of your axle. Tie it off with zip ties. Then you can drain your fuel carefully. Inspect it. Oil in there? (Black) Open your fuel bowl and check your filter. Black? Then you have oil getting past the injector o-rings and returning in the fuel to the fuel tank. To be sure, change the fuel filter and check it again in a couple of months. This may be a warning from the engine that it wants injectors rebuilt. How many miles on the engine?

Step one - check the wiring on the sensors (ICP, IPR, and EBP). Broken wires in the insulation really messed me up on my two trucks.

Step two - REMOVE the wire from the relay to the Air Heater. It goes live and can fry.

Step three - the fuel check.

Odometer says about 120k but we got f***ed and it’s not her original motor, motor was estimated by mechanic to have about 350k on her that was when we bought her when the odometer sat at 88k. I’d say she’s at 400k. We’ve sent in oil samples and she came back way better than expected for the mileage. Oh and all fuel related is clean and new after running dry. We have the pig tail for the icp it just needs to be put on and I don’t believe it was a MC. We were hurting financially at that time after the new injectors and PCM about 2 years ago now I think. We will check the IPR and wiring this weekend when we go back out to clean her bay more while we’re waiting on the pedestal and AIH delete. I’m hoping it’s just the pedestal but that’s usually not our luck.

My husband has the forscan app. Once we put the pedestal on I will run codes and come back with them! It’s definitely a life saver. I love playing with that app!

What really peaks my interest as we’re playing the waiting game for the parts is the weep hole for the valley. I noticed it goes into the bell housing. What if nasty debris like we had (old twigs & hood insulation) gets in there? Will there be damage? Why such an odd weep hole? If we were stick shift wouldn’t that coat the clutch?

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

Jax said:
I don't know any mechanic that can estimate mileage on an engine without taking it apart and putting it back together. How did your mechanic determine it wasn't her original motor?

I guess we just have very lubed bellhousings then! I can call her an ecoboost since a twig fell in the weep.

Vin and tear down of the motor. A dealership wouldn’t take us as a trade in for another used 7.3 because vin and mileage didn’t match or some bs.

Checked wiring seems to all look ok, everything is still soaked in oil and I went to check oil and no oil on the dip stick and we just did a oil change 2 weeks prior to the leak. Would the pedestal cause it to go dry just from cranking? Should I check the oil plugs in the back of motor if I can get back there? Everything is still so soaked… it’s almost like a bucket of oil was dumped all over everything in the back. Hpop oil is beyond low. Even when the oil cooler went out we didn’t lose that much oil. Scary!

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

Jax said:
So, you had your mechanic "tear down the motor"?

If the vin and the mileage didn't match, it means the dealer looked it up on service records and previous records showed greater mileage. Ergo, someone swapped the odometer on you. I am willing to be the whole truck has a lot more mileage on it then you think.

I have a vehicle with 160k miles, but the engine was beat all to pieces. It's not the mileage on the 7.3L, it is the care given during the lifetime.

Have you ordered a carfax on your truck?

Now, back to the oil -- Your truck has two oil systems. One Low pressure that provides lubricants to all the of engine and fills the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) reservoir. If you have that much oil, you have a high pressure leak.

The Oil Cooler is low pressure oil, by the way.

On the valley side of the heads are 4 ports on each head. The ports have either an oil rail plug, or an oil pressure line, maybe a crossover oil pressure line, and the Injector Control Pressure (ICP) sensor. Those are sources of leaks. The other sources are the HPOP itself, the oil pressure lines on the HPOP, the HPOP reservoir, or the IPR.

Slow down. Clean up the engine with Clean Power or Purple Power (Plug the oil holes on the pedestal!), and rinse.

Unless you have actually pulled the fuel pickup, don't be sure it was the Previous Owner's (PO's) fault. The end screen pickup tends to crack and fall off of the old pickups.

Hey there, long time no update! I’m very sorry on my part. We were playing hell trying to get parts, after the turbo delete install the HPOP to passenger head line blew and then someone stole our line puller package. She’s buttoned back up and running. Everything is dry and no leaks. Husband has driven her maybe 40-50 miles. She wasn’t pissed off too bad but we have a slight idle surge at stops and idle ~200 rpm. Sounds like no missing and maybe a slight power loss but husband said it’s hard to tell since we haven’t driven her in a while. No smoke as well. He has been driving her nice and not romping on her because we’re both scared of her blowing something else at the moment. She’s a little over full on oil after everything has been cycled. Should we just keep driving? We have a 50 mile hilly track tomorrow one way to the grocery store. Kinda nervous I don’t want to be stranded! Should we inspect icp and ipr? We have lifetime warranties anyways.

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #13 · 2 mo ago

Jax said:
So, you had your mechanic "tear down the motor"?

If the vin and the mileage didn't match, it means the dealer looked it up on service records and previous records showed greater mileage. Ergo, someone swapped the odometer on you. I am willing to be the whole truck has a lot more mileage on it then you think.

I have a vehicle with 160k miles, but the engine was beat all to pieces. It's not the mileage on the 7.3L, it is the care given during the lifetime.

Have you ordered a carfax on your truck?

Now, back to the oil -- Your truck has two oil systems. One Low pressure that provides lubricants to all the of engine and fills the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) reservoir. If you have that much oil, you have a high pressure leak.

The Oil Cooler is low pressure oil, by the way.

On the valley side of the heads are 4 ports on each head. The ports have either an oil rail plug, or an oil pressure line, maybe a crossover oil pressure line, and the Injector Control Pressure (ICP) sensor. Those are sources of leaks. The other sources are the HPOP itself, the oil pressure lines on the HPOP, the HPOP reservoir, or the IPR.

Slow down. Clean up the engine with Clean Power or Purple Power (Plug the oil holes on the pedestal!), and rinse.

Unless you have actually pulled the fuel pickup, don't be sure it was the Previous Owner's (PO's) fault. The end screen pickup tends to crack and fall off of the old pickups.

Here is a video of it March 24, 2023

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #15 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Jax said:
After you have an issue with the high pressure system, you need to do about 25 miles of "spirited driving" to work all the air out of the oil.

Run her up to the 3000 before shifting, and keep her rpms 2500 -3000.

The uneven idling is due to air in the system. Not unusual, it will work its way out.

Should I give her an inhaler and a Vicks stick to help her breathe through all that? 😂 I’ll let y’all know how she is! No carfax was pulled, my husband was 18 and needed a truck ASAP for work.

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #17 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Jax said:
Pull your carfax. The more you know about your truck, the better you can take care of it.

What is "a little over full"? Check the oil on a flat surface when the engine is warmed up. Turn it off, give it two minutes, and check it. How much is over full? 2mm? 1/4"

we will check oil again at home it’s hard to tell on her dip sometimes. So far still fluctuating idle only after driving not when sitting for a bit and then starting up- smooth idle then. We ran her about 80 miles today. Seems like a quicker fluctuation the warmer she is. We should pull her fax, how much is it? I feel like giving up on her, almost 10 years of working on her pretty much every year. Just worn out right now!

Just got home threw a code P1249.

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #19 · 2 mo ago

Jax said:
Meh on P1249. Make sure you clear the codes after reading. Some show up and don't show up again.

We did, it hadn’t returned since, still have the fluctuation in idle though.

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #20 · 2 mo ago

Jax said:
Meh on P1249. Make sure you clear the codes after reading. Some show up and don't show up again.

Still having fluctuation at idle. Here is forscan screenshots:

#1 when it drops back to about normal idle ~600rpm
#2 picture is when it revs up to ~800rpm

that’s our only problem, no smoke or misses

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Brandi2002-7.3

Discussion Starter · #21 · 2 mo ago

Brandi2002-7.3 said:
Still having fluctuation at idle. Here is forscan screenshots:

#1 when it drops back to about normal idle ~600rpm
#2 picture is when it revs up to ~800rpm

that’s our only problem, no smoke or misses.
If it uploads backwards the idle 600 picture is the one with the 5% ipr

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Ran out diesel, crank no start, now massive oil leak

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