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Discussion Starter #1
Same story on here 100's of times I am sure. There I was minding my own dang business and my stock 2000 F350 truck quit running. After an uneventful trip to the dealer and feeling like I was nothing more than an ATM, I brought it home and invested in AE. Ran the codes tonight. Yikes! I have no idea how long the codes have been in there and what is recent and what may be old.

B1318 Battery Voltage Low
B1352 Ignitions Key in circuit Fault
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A
U2015 Signal Link Fault (Non SCP)
P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit
P1139 Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit

Batteries are low from cranking it while messing with it. They are a few years old so it is possible they are dropping down past the magic 10.xV that keeps it shut down.

There is oil in the ICP sensor so I will get a new one of those. I unplugged it and tried to start it. It just turns over. I would think I would hear the injectors. No smoke either.

Looking at the codes is there anything else that pops out?
 

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It needs 10.5 volts to activate the injectors so it is not going to start until you charge them up or replace them. Then replace the ICP if it has oil in connection. It should start if ICP is unplugged but not if volts is less than 10.5
 

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I'd say almost all of those codes could be set by low battery voltage. Without knowing how long they have ben set they aren't very useful either. Clear them all out and see if any come back. You need to start monitoring vitals and go from there.
 

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once you have good cranking rpm...(repl batteries/starter, as nec)

start by monitoring engine rpm (via AE)...if AE is not registering engine rpm (not on the dash, but on the scan tool)...replace the CPS, or check wiring to/from CPS

if you have rpm via scan tool...CPS is good

next watch ICP pressure while cranking.

if ICP (psi not voltage) doesn't exceed 500-550psi, then you have a leak in the HPOil system (pump, injectors, IPR valve, etc)...

low ICP pressure is not going to be fixed with replacing the ICP sensor..as that sensor is simply reporting the mechanical pressure to the PCM.

a lot of internet mechanics think that by unplugging that sensor (and seeing a default/high pressure ON the scantool means that there is pressure)..but blindfolding the PCM does not 'make' real pressure...it just allows the PCM to 'pretend' there is pressure and continue calculating fueling/timing if/when that sensor does go bad...FWIW..a 'bad' ICP sensor can't cause a no-start (unless it is internally shorted drawing vRef down to all other 3 wire sensors).

*whew*

if you have rpm annnnnd ICP psi...

then run an inj buzz test.

if you hear all 8 injs buzz...then the IDM is 'good'...regardless of what codes may show up. (IDM 'codes' can be reported with wiring problems, injector problems, and even PCM problems).

but more than likely...you either won't have engine rpm...min 500psi ICP pressure...

the IDM's are pretty robust on the 7.3L trucks..particularly the 99-03 trucks where they are better shielded from weather.

here is a link to more diagnostics/test explanations.

http://swampsdiesel.com/files/7.3LInjectorDiagnostic.pdf
 

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Id fully charge the batteries one at a time then when fully charged load test them as a weak battery will cause a bunch of headaches. If they both load test out good then hook them back up clear all the codes and try starting it then. If it doesnt start then try pulling codes again as if any are reset there problems that need addressing first before moving forward and then youll know where ya stand.
 

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once you have good cranking rpm...(repl batteries/starter, as nec)

start by monitoring engine rpm (via AE)...if AE is not registering engine rpm (not on the dash, but on the scan tool)...replace the CPS, or check wiring to/from CPS

if you have rpm via scan tool...CPS is good

next watch ICP pressure while cranking.

if ICP (psi not voltage) doesn't exceed 500-550psi, then you have a leak in the HPOil system (pump, injectors, IPR valve, etc)...

low ICP pressure is not going to be fixed with replacing the ICP sensor..as that sensor is simply reporting the mechanical pressure to the PCM.

a lot of internet mechanics think that by unplugging that sensor (and seeing a default/high pressure ON the scantool means that there is pressure)..but blindfolding the PCM does not 'make' real pressure...it just allows the PCM to 'pretend' there is pressure and continue calculating fueling/timing if/when that sensor does go bad...FWIW..a 'bad' ICP sensor can't cause a no-start (unless it is internally shorted drawing vRef down to all other 3 wire sensors).

*whew*

if you have rpm annnnnd ICP psi...

then run an inj buzz test.

if you hear all 8 injs buzz...then the IDM is 'good'...regardless of what codes may show up. (IDM 'codes' can be reported with wiring problems, injector problems, and even PCM problems).

but more than likely...you either won't have engine rpm...min 500psi ICP pressure...

the IDM's are pretty robust on the 7.3L trucks..particularly the 99-03 trucks where they are better shielded from weather.

here is a link to more diagnostics/test explanations.

http://swampsdiesel.com/files/7.3LInjectorDiagnostic.pdf
Some good info there!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I charged the batteries and cranked it over. It was reading 9.6v. No go. Took the batteries out and had them tested. One battery was bad so I bought two new ones and installed them.

Cleared the codes and turned it over. No start so that isn't the problem.

New codes after cranking:
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A
U2015 Signal Link Fault(Non SCP)
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected.

Tried to run a KOEO test. Came back with P1668 PCM/IDM Communications Error
Tried to run a buzz test. Came back with same error.

While turning over AE had the following readings. (I love the log function)
Voltage was 12.1 before cranking. Looks to be 10.4v 10.3v while cranking. 11.1V after cranking. I am kind of concerned about the <10.5v with new batteries.
ICP pressure 2300ish.
RPM 130-140.
Fuel Injector Pulse Width .38 (Added this one because I was curious.)

I am concerned about the 10.4 volts but more concerned the PCM cant communicate with the IDM.
 

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I would be suspiciouse of the batteries or connections.
double check grounds and make sure cables are solid...clean the insides of the battery clqmos etc.
 

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I charged the batteries and cranked it over. It was reading 9.6v. No go. Took the batteries out and had them tested. One battery was bad so I bought two new ones and installed them.

Cleared the codes and turned it over. No start so that isn't the problem.

New codes after cranking:
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A
U2015 Signal Link Fault(Non SCP)
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected.

Tried to run a KOEO test. Came back with P1668 PCM/IDM Communications Error
Tried to run a buzz test. Came back with same error.

While turning over AE had the following readings. (I love the log function)
Voltage was 12.1 before cranking. Looks to be 10.4v 10.3v while cranking. 11.1V after cranking. I am kind of concerned about the <10.5v with new batteries.
ICP pressure 2300ish.
RPM 130-140.
Fuel Injector Pulse Width .38 (Added this one because I was curious.)

I am concerned about the 10.4 volts but more concerned the PCM cant communicate with the IDM.
if the (new) batteries are good..then your starter may be bad (drawing excessive current), causing a tremendous drop in voltage.

fought a similar issue with my Excursion recently...new starter fixed it instantly. These vehicles are very sensitive to voltage & engine/chassis grounds.

don't forget that depending on your tuning (PCM calibration)...your voltage drop may also be related to glow plug relay/controller 'on' time.

you can disconnect the GP relay/controller to get the voltage up temporarily...depending on how bad the starter is.

if you (still) can't perform a buzz test (no audible sound during test)..then check/replace IDM relay & retest...replace IDM if relay/wiring is good and you have PCM communication but are unable to perform an inj buzz test.

then go back to my previous post on minimum ICP required, if/when you get the injs to buzz, and still have a no start.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Golfer, thank you for the help. I didn't think about taking the GP relay out to help increase the voltage, that is a good trick. Tonight or tomorrow morning I will be doing that and also checking the relay/wiring for the IDM.

At this point, I am betting it is a short. There had been some random cutting out a couple of tanks of fuel ago and I chalked it up to bad fuel.

I will let you know what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am going through the diag test from the link (P1670 trouble code - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum) I am having some trouble.

For FJ2 I have disconnected the PCM harness and the IDM harness tested circuit 818 by measuring from harness to harness have .8 ohms. Says go to FJ3.

I am having a difficult time understanding FJ3. it says "Measure resistance between IDM relay Circuit 818 (GY/W) and battery ground." I am pretty much lost at this point. As I understand it, Circuit 828 is a direct link between the PCM and the IDM so I am having a tough time figuring out how to measure this.

I hooked harness back up to the PCM then tested resistance on the circuit. I get 2.225Kohms. Less than the 10,000 shown. Indicates there my be a short. Hummmm....something tells me I am way off base and doing something wrong.

Please help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FJ4 Testing from pin 4 IDM harness to ground with KOEO I have 72mV.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am stumped. Other than buying another IDM I don't know what to do. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I am going to make one more post and hopefully someone will take pity on me and try to help.

So I stumbled across this website http://www.gbreman.com/ and the IDM testing procedure in the link.

I have tested each circuit as this diagram shows:


I am out of range from the values shown in test #1. Tests #2 and #3 are fine.
My values for test #1 are as follows:

23 - 22 = 7.8 Ohms
23 - 7 = 4.5 Ohms
23 - 19 =6.8 Ohms
23 - 9 = 6.8 Ohms

24 - 6 = 146k Ohms (This must be a short)
24 - 21 = 4.1 Ohms
24 - 8 = 2k Ohms (This must be a short)
24 - 20 = 62 Ohms

I can see that I need to follow back the right bank for sure. Does anyone have any thoughts on the other circuits that are out of spec based on the data shown? Heck, is the data even right?

If I do have a short, could this have ruined the IDM?
 

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-Does your truck have the fuel bowl. If so imply heater and check the 30 amp fuse.
-you said you were replacing cup sensor did you and was it a ford unit.
-have you cleaned Ipr.
-have you load tested batteries wire brushed terminals.
--check all harnesses at icp.ipr.cps. etc
fresh fuel and new filters..
good oil levels etc.


These are just a few free things to go over..
anyone of which can shut down the truck.

I would call and talk to swamps..see how much or if they can test idm pcm etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
She is a runnin'. Turned out to be a bad IDM.

Thank you all for your help!!!

To the last two folks who responded. Thanks you for the input. I had kinda stopped checking this thread so sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
 

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THANK YOU FOR THE UPDATE!

So many trouble post without the final outcome posted.... Nothing pisses me off more....

Travis T
 

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This is a very good, informative thread. stlhdfishr, when you did the initial buzz test, were you able to get any to sound or did it just come back with the error codes?
 
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