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Discussion Starter #1
I’ll try to be brief. My auto hubs aren’t working, even though I can use manual hub locks I’m annoyed that I can’t get auto to work. Passenger side locks in when in auto, drivers side locks in, but disengages on its own by about the time the vacuum pump turns off. I’ve tried a dedicated line from solenoid to the driver hub with the same result. I checked solenoid operation with 12v to the center pin and ground to the pin closest to firewall results in a click and vacuum sound. Ground to the front pin does not result in any clicks or sounds. Is this normal operation? I’m left thinking that either solenoid is bad, or there is a problem with driver side hub.
If there was a leak in hub would it engage at all? Would a bad hub or leaking seal allow hub to lock but then release 30-60 seconds later? Thanks for any help!
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Sounds like a vacuum leak on the drivers side hub
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That’s what I was afraid of. I had to tear into one on my 7.3 and it wasn’t that fun messing with that large seal. I may just live with it and deal with the manual locks for rest of winter and mess with hub when it’s warmer.
 

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The knuckle seal that’s pressed onto the axle is liklely the issue. Try using a vacuum pump right on the knuckles fitting to confirm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just found it weird that it would lock in for a minute or so. I figured that if the seal was bad it wouldn’t build enough vacuum to lock the hub at all. With that said I did try a handheld pump with gauge right on fitting and it wouldn’t build up vacuum no matter how much I pumped. Guess that settles it. Thank you for all your replies. It’s always appreciated.

Random side note...why does the oil pan use a copper crush washer and not some type of rubber washer? Who ever changed oil before I bought it must not have changed the washer. It drips/weeps ever so slightly. Sometimes not eneough to put a drop on floor overnight but I can see it on plug. I plan to wait it out until next oil change, I don’t want to lose a bunch of oil trying to remove plug and change washer quickly.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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I have removed the plug with a full oil pan. You lose a little, but if you are quick and keep upwards pressure on the plug as you remove it, you can do it without losing much or making a big mess.

I prefer the copper washer myself, I would think a soft gasket might have issues also.

That said, I installed the Fumoto valve for my oil changes.
 

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You can also put a shopvac on the oil fill tube and turn it on. The vacuum will keep the oil from pouring out when you pull the plug.
 

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If you can pull oil from the pan up through the heads and into the shop vac. You have one badass shop vac.
 

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don't play well w others
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I am not trying it ;0

I betcha if Tom wuz laying under the truck with his face under the open plug hole you would.



$100 on it...…….
Hell, I'd do that one for free!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great ideas I may just try that on the plug. Ok back to the hub issue, now I seem to have a different issue! Now both my front hubs are locked and won’t unlock. Maybe I’m stupid lol but I’ve got the hubs turned counter clockwise which is auto correct? The writing is wore off on mine so no way to tell manual from auto. I’m pretty sure they are set to auto. I messed with vacuum gauge/ hand pump type device the other night and was trying to see if that front hub was in fact leaking. Somehow in the course of doing that both hubs are locked and won’t unlock. The hub I thought was leaking held vacuum fine at this point when it was locked. Guess it’s not end of world but we have no snow in sight so I won’t need 4x4 for now, figured I’d get better mileage if they weren’t locked in.

Anyone ever have this happen before? I tried getting vacuum up to 7-10 on each hub which is what I read was how much truck applies to them to disengage, with no result. When I pull the hose off I can hear the stuff inside relax as vacuum escapes. Looking forward to any replies you can give me.
 

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don't play well w others
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Back the truck up about 15 feet, they will unlock
Sounds like a bad actuator. That's the eclectic switch for the vacuum to the hubs
Not sure where it is on your truck, but on my 150, it's by the passenger windshield, and it gets water in it.
I have had 2 fail on that truck
Built a little rain hat last time, no more trouble
 

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Simple drain plug idea, cut a piece of string about 4" long and slather it with non hardening permatex, unscrew plug enough to see threads, wrap string around threads reverse rotation, ( same principal as thread tape ) then tighten the plug. That's worked for me many times.
Sorry about your hubs!

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok so I’m still struggling to understand this hub issue. As it sits right now, I can not spin the passenger side axle by hand behind the rotor which means that side is locked. When I spin the driver side axle by hand, I can spin it and the front driveshaft spins at the same time. The 4x4 switch is in 2hi and the hubs are both in the auto position. I just drove 2 hours home yesterday. There was plenty of backing up and all that. The last time I used 4x4 was Sunday morning to get up my in laws driveway and I didn’t have to get out and lock hubs in, so apparently the hub I thought wasn’t locking can lock (unless 4x4 would work with just one locked in)?

Hoping someone can let me know if this is normal and if not where I should look first after hearing my symptoms. My concern is my passenger side not unlocking, is it going to cause unnecessary wear? Thanks as always for your expertise.
 

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I would try to clean them first. www.guzzle7pt3.com/allube.php

Also you can pull the vacuum line off the knuckle to see if it will disengage. If it doesn’t unlock after cleaning it. It sounds like it’s time for a new one.
 
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