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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 96 F250 7.3. lately it has been making a popping noise though the intake. Really only heard it at idle or going really slow. So I went a pulled the valve covers off, replaced all the glow plugs and checked all the push rods. Found the bent one on the driver side in the cylinder against the fire wall. I replaced that push rod and reinstalled all the good ones. Torqued the rockers down to 20-FT/LBS. Started the truck and it sounded great, gave it a little rev and it sounded perfect. Turned off the truck and put the valve covers back on and reinstalled everything. Went to back out of the garage and as soon as I put it in reverse and hit the gas the noise came back but louder and at a much more rapid speed. I pulled the valve covers again and all the rockers and valves are opening and closing properly. I took all the pushrods back out to inspect them and everything looks fine. I cant find the issue. After the new pushrod was installed it only made the noise in drive, But now its making it in park as well. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 

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Project Shamu
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Pushrod might be unrelated... hmm.

How does the turbo look. Any shaft play?

Does the truck have good power? I'm wondering a valve is damaged and making noise?
 

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Maybe it's not a pushrod/rocker??? You might check your flexplate to make sure its not cracked (just based on the reverse/drive symptoms). Cheers!
 

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Just throwing it out there, any chance something is on top of that piston? Could have smacked the valve at one point and bent the pushrod.

IE: glow plug tip, valve seat ect ...

Was the valve in question sitting higher than the others?

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Something caused the pushrod to bend in the first place
broken spring(coil bind), extra parts in the combustion chamber, parts in the intake manifold, loose seat
the clearance(0.060) between the piston and head is very small, so most anything in there will make a noise
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My grandpa owned the truck before me. He used either to start it in the winter. I think that was the cause of the bent push rod. How can I check the lifter? It almost feels like its running on 6 cylinders. I put new glow plugs in (motor craft) and all the old ones came out fine and intact. I forgot to mention it but I did change the UVCH while I had the valve covers off. I got them for Christmas and didn't really pay attention to them because they felt like decent quality, But after I looked at the box i realized they are Dormans. I wonder if this is causing any issue? I ran a buzz test and all 8 buzzed but they seemed quieter then before. I did get a P1293 and 1294 injector code but I think that is because I cranked the motor a few times with the glow plugs out just to make sure I didn't have any oil pooled up. Truck would never start below 60 and smoke till EOT got to about 100, now it starts right up but it smokes all the time cold or hot. the motor runs, i am able to build boost. Turbo seems fine. (I do have everything to go to a super duty turbo and a 38R sitting in my garage just haven't had the time to swap everything). Here is a link to a short video I made.
 

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Yes, ether can bend push rods. There is a test for lifters, but I'm not versed in it, the way I've always done it is after it has been run a little, pull the valve cover and push on the rod side of the rocker arm, if you can collapse the lifter, it's probably leaking off.

Now, since you have doorman gaskets, I'll assume that you also installed the new pig tails that came with them. When doing so, the doorman wire colors are WRONG. It's very common and easy to get a wire crossed, so I would recommend double checking those. From your symptoms, I'm going to guess on 1 of the plugs, the center wire is crossed with one of the injector wires. Just a guess though.

I recommend checking the wiring first .....

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes I did install the new pig-tales. I upgraded from the obs plugs to the super duty plugs because all my glow plug wires had burnt up. I'm an electrical engineer by trade so the wiring was the easiest part of the whole project lol. I soldered every connection, used shrink wrap, and I did 1 wire at a time. However I am human and it is 100% possible I mixed something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
and I was not able to bleed the lifers down. I checked that and checked to make sure I had the push rods seated correctly.
 

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and I was not able to bleed the lifers down. I checked that and checked to make sure I had the push rods seated correctly.
You would have to rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder you are testing, the valves need to be closed and on the base of the cam
otherwise there is already pressure on the lifter

Listening to your vid, there is definitely a valve problem -- usually a popping sound is because a valve is opening late
Running the engine with the valve covers off and observing the rocker arms -- you see no difference?
 

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Nah. More like blow out through the intake. Regardless, the intake valve is never open when the piston is coming up. It can't ignite with an intake valve open. That's just malarkey.

Maybe if they sprayed so much it hydro locked. That could bend the exhaust side, I suppose... maybe. Highly unlikely though.

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Discussion Starter #15
You would have to rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder you are testing, the valves need to be closed and on the base of the cam
otherwise there is already pressure on the lifter

Listening to your vid, there is definitely a valve problem -- usually a popping sound is because a valve is opening late
Running the engine with the valve covers off and observing the rocker arms -- you see no difference?
So I did not make sure the motor was at TDC when i reinstalled the push rods? Could this cause an issue? I wasn't aware this was something I had to do. What kind of damage could i cause? What do I need to look for?
 

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Whut ..Whut??

I don't see how you got that out of what I posted

You were asking about checking for a lifter backing off
I was trying to explain that the valves needed to be closed and the load off the lifters to check for a lifter "backing off"

Musa didn't do a good job of esplanin
 

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Nah. More like blow out through the intake. Regardless, the intake valve is never open when the piston is coming up. It can't ignite with an intake valve open. That's just malarkey.

Maybe if they sprayed so much it hydro locked. That could bend the exhaust side, I suppose... maybe. Highly unlikely though.

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Gee, a spark, like say, hot carbon could never ignite something like ether.

The fact that it isn't timed fuel couldn't have anything to do with it either, the fact that it enters THROUGH AN OPEN INTAKE VALVE, certainly makes the whole thing hogwash.

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Glow plugs can and will light up ether
 

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No, it doesn't need to be tdc to install them.

To check a lifter, just pull the covers and rock the lifters backwards. If a lifter is spongy, you'll feel it. You could also spin the engine by hand until a valve is open and just leave it. Then check that valves lifter after a little while.
 
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