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111 Posts
Any progress on installing the new front axle?
Hoping to start pulling out the old axle this weekend. Need to CAD up the coil buckets, radius arm mounts, sway bar mounts, and track bar mounts, and itll be a lot easier once I get the new axle in place.Any progress on installing the new front axle?
SD tank will be nice, the bronco rear tank is well worth it too, and gives you another 20 gallons.Yes I did. Thank you.
I’m starting surgery on my truck tomorrow to do e fuel and putting a ‘06 Superduty fuel tank in place of my front one that the sending unit was out.
Really digging your flatbed designs too but mechanical comes first. When are you going bigger sticks?
I think the f26e and the bronco tank are the same, I cant remember nowWhat’s the difference between the Bronco tank and the F26e tank dimensions?
Not liking the prospects since the receiver hitch is welded in to a piece of rectangular tubing that is welded to the bottom of the frame rails with a piece of 2” angle iron sticking out into the space for the deeper tank
False. Bronco tank is slightly smaller and deeper than the f26e. I've done the f26e in mine and I would highly recommend it. It fits like it should you have to extend everything obviously. But I went with that vs the bronco since I didn't want it to hang to lowI think the f26e and the bronco tank are the same, I cant remember now
That turned out great. I havn't had a problem with breaking the studs.Then I did my rear axle stud conversion, using 1/2" studs and flange nuts.
View attachment 201369
I also dropped the front axle off to get sandblasted today, gonna get it back early next week and get started pulling my old axle out. Wish me luck.
The factory bolts worked fine on my truck until I added the Detroit Locker. The locker is usually pretty good at letting the truck go around corners without being locked, but in some scenarios the rear is locked and the tires bark while going around turns. The factory bolts allow a little wiggle room in the holes at the end of the axle. After a while that wiggling will shear the bolts. The studs have a slightly larger diameter with no threads so that wiggle is virtually eliminated.Finally getting that eyesore out of the engine bay! I am curious why you elected to do that stud conversion on your axle though. Were you having an issue with the factory bolts?
Im leaving it stock for now, because I'm running stock height, and I bought a new ball joint and entire stock track bar for it. I do plan on making an adapter to replace the balljoint and run a heim, but that's for a later date.What are you going to do about the factory ball joint for the trac bar? Are you going to run a stock 05+ trac bar? The ball joint is known to blow out with a little bit of lift because it maxes out quickly.
I've noticed there was a few companies, but all of them are lacking in a few ways. We'll see.Someone makes one but it’s $800 for the kit.